Re: 79 SS18 Project
Re: 79 SS18 Project
OK folks, made some progress on the electrical with a Multimeter and some guidance from SilverTip on the juice forum. I do have a question. Since many of our pictures are deleted/missing, and the ability to upload via album disabled, use your imagination.
I have about every circuit traced and ready for connection. Just a reminder that over 30 years, boat wires change colors, fade, poor add-ons, etc.
I have a metal permanent fuel tank and metal filler cap. This is NOT the original tank as PO changed to it, never got the gauge to work, and appears removed the bonding. Here is what I have:
Disregard the sender and ground, these are resolved. There is a harness. On side A, the tank side, the pink sender runs into the clip. A black jumper pigs to a post on the tank, and from that post, the black continues into the clip, meaning the sender and tank are grounded as proven by OHMS test. A third wire comes from this clip, lets call it blue(may have been green way back). This blue wire just hung around and has a ring connector on it.
Then the harness clip joins the clip on side B. The pink sender continues on, the black ground continues on, all OK and tested for resistance. The corresponding wire that appears is a white with green stripe. This same color appears at the battery with a ring connector. I tested that wire with the ring of the blue wire and they are continuous, so it appears this wire gets attached to the NEG battery post to maybe ground(bond) the filler cap.
After a visual inspection underneath the fuel cap, I noticed one of the locknuts was very loose, almost off. Me thinks this blue wire is my bonding wire for the static of metal fillers and caps.
I opted to attach it there, but won't make the battery connection until later. I followed with a resistance test with the cap and wire at the battery box, and it reads ZERO, so continuity remained there.
Can anyone examine their fuel tanks for this hookup?
Re: 79 SS18 Project
OK folks, made some progress on the electrical with a Multimeter and some guidance from SilverTip on the juice forum. I do have a question. Since many of our pictures are deleted/missing, and the ability to upload via album disabled, use your imagination.
I have about every circuit traced and ready for connection. Just a reminder that over 30 years, boat wires change colors, fade, poor add-ons, etc.
I have a metal permanent fuel tank and metal filler cap. This is NOT the original tank as PO changed to it, never got the gauge to work, and appears removed the bonding. Here is what I have:
Disregard the sender and ground, these are resolved. There is a harness. On side A, the tank side, the pink sender runs into the clip. A black jumper pigs to a post on the tank, and from that post, the black continues into the clip, meaning the sender and tank are grounded as proven by OHMS test. A third wire comes from this clip, lets call it blue(may have been green way back). This blue wire just hung around and has a ring connector on it.
Then the harness clip joins the clip on side B. The pink sender continues on, the black ground continues on, all OK and tested for resistance. The corresponding wire that appears is a white with green stripe. This same color appears at the battery with a ring connector. I tested that wire with the ring of the blue wire and they are continuous, so it appears this wire gets attached to the NEG battery post to maybe ground(bond) the filler cap.
After a visual inspection underneath the fuel cap, I noticed one of the locknuts was very loose, almost off. Me thinks this blue wire is my bonding wire for the static of metal fillers and caps.
I opted to attach it there, but won't make the battery connection until later. I followed with a resistance test with the cap and wire at the battery box, and it reads ZERO, so continuity remained there.
Can anyone examine their fuel tanks for this hookup?
