A little help identifying my engine please...

[Fishermark]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

Here's another example and a great deal.

Brand new complete distributor kit with wires, etc for only $180.
DELCO EST HIGH ENERGY IGNITION WITH ELECTRONIC ADVANCE
NO WEIGHTS IN DISTRIBUTOR COMPLETE WITH HARNESS AND WIRE SET
FITS ANY V8 CHEVROLET MARINE ENGINE

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

you can get a pertronix or Mallory marine distributor for $275 or less thru summit racing. I would also get the coil, fuel pump, carb, and plug wires while your ordering from there.

you can get an EST distributor from http://www.michiganmotorz.com/delco-voyager-marine-electronic-distributor-p-119.html

the electrics can come from DBelectrical like achris mentioned.

 

[achris]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

....you can get an EST distributor from http://www.michiganmotorz.com/delco-voyager-marine-electronic-distributor-p-119.html....

That's the dissy I was looking for, thanks....

 

[picklenjim]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

Not to mention that open plenum aluminum job wasn't designed for the RPM ranges of your typical boat. It probably puts a pretty good hurting on lower end performance.

This deffinately will need to be addressed. That's a single plane holley strip dominator intake designed for 4500-7500 rpms. You need a dual plane intake and the right carb for it.

 

[Don S]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

Think about it. EVERYTHING bolted on to that engine is wrong. Can you imagine what the insides look like :facepalm:

 

[gwizzar]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

Ok... I've had a look at all the photos you've posted (both this thread and the other) and I'm having a bit of a guess on the era.. The drive is definitely an MC-1, it has gimbal senders and the upper has a squared off 'tail'. That puts it in the early 80s.

The engine is of no help whatsoever, because it's nothing remotely like original, but some things do fit with the 80s era. Mechanical fuel pump, edge bolts on the rocker cover and centre riser exhaust manifolds...

Given that I am in the right ball-park, I can guide you to the right manuals... (I hope)....

Engine (manual #3) -> https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B1TAvwZ3Tjhfdk9PRXBWWExTU084dXpoTUhqRk9vZw
Drive (manual #4) -> https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B1...ODAxOS00YWZjLWFmZDgtZjMxNjQxOTkzMzUz&hl=en_GB

These are the genuine article (not seloc or clymer!!), so download and SAVE them....

As for replacing with marine parts, the carb I'd put on is an Edlebrock 1409 (available from, apart from other places, Summitracing), and I'd look around for a cast iron intake manifold, that ali one won't last a season in seawater... I'd just put fittings on the bottom of the exhaust manifolds, and I'd use a late (mid 90s) model thermostat housing... Merc changed the design and the new ones use way less hoses and actually work better.... Starters and alternators, try http://www.dbelectrical.com/ ... I'd also look at putting an electric fuel pump (with the appropriate switches ect..) Also while you up to your armpits, put an alarm on the oil pressure and coolant temp... (Have a search around here and you'll find I've recommended it to a few people, included all the part numbers you need)

I hope this can help you....

Chris.....

Downloaded and saved to two computer storage drives. Thank you, Chris!!!

 

[gwizzar]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

This deffinately will need to be addressed. That's a single plane holley strip dominator intake designed for 4500-7500 rpms. You need a dual plane intake and the right carb for it.

Thanks for the need to address, Chief!!

 

[gwizzar]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

Think about it. EVERYTHING bolted on to that engine is wrong. Can you imagine what the insides look like :facepalm:

Yep...I'm trying to be as optimistic as possible...

 

[gwizzar]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

Be sure to shop around. Those prices are way higher than you need to pay. Just a couple of examples:

Edelbrock 1409 at Summitracing - only $360.

New marine starter at D&B Electric - $60

That's just a couple of examples.

Nice examples!! The carb, distributor, fuel pump, alternator, and spark plug wires I already ordered/purchased through the marine shop. They are definitely more pricey than what you have provided me and what I have seen on eBay and other various sites. I decided to pay a bit more because the marine shop will work with me in case something doesn't work out and then I don't need to go through returns, exchanges, shipping return costs, etc., and be waiting for days, if not weeks, to dispute a policy return, why something is taking so long to get shipped out, delivered, etc., The marine shop is only 20 minutes from my residence and is open on Saturdays *BIG PLUS!! In addition, the shop owner said that while the their tech's "won't put a wrench to her," they will look it over once I am done and bring it down to the marina WITHOUT charging me since they admire when boaters don't cut corners and place safety over saving a few bucks. They were honest upfront and told me that I would find my parts on-line for less expense, but I am locked into their professionalism and no-nonsense approach. **SIDE-NOTE: Another customer came in with a question for the owner regarding splicing two fuel lines together (one was metal about 10 inches coming out from the fuel pump elbow which the was clamped onto with a rubber hose which was clamped onto the inlet of the carb-the exact same half-assed setup in the vessel I just purchased!)and the tech said that it was absolutely illegal to have that run as 2 separate pieces, it must be solid. Another customer in line had overheard the conversation and said"Oh, that's how places just want you to spend more money. (To the customer -"You're good with what you got." The owner of the marine shop went off!! He said in so many words... I have 50+ years working with vessels and I am telling you that it is wrong, illegal, and asking for disaster. Keep your mouth closed or talk to my customers outside!" I feel very comfortable paying more knowing this outfit is legit, honest, and demands things be done right.

 

[gwizzar]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

you have a junkyard dog, and you want the mechanic to turn it into a purebread. get an estimate before work is done. you may want to rethink the "funds and time" comment.

just a quick estimate of what your looking at:
new marine carb - ~ $400 -$600
new marine distributor - ~$300
new marine fuel pump - ~ $50
new marine coil - ~ $50
new plug wires - ~$55
new marine starter - ~ $250
new harness - ~ $200
misc - $200 - $400
new proper marine hoses - ~ $150

labor at a marina - about 1500 - $2000

hopefully there is no water damage issues. there appears to be standing water in the bilge around the bilge pump.

Scott, where do you recommend that I purchase a new wiring harness to go from the instrument panel to the engine? That is something universal that I wouldn't mind not purchasing from the marine shop. Thanks!

 

[gwizzar]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

you can get a pertronix or Mallory marine distributor for $275 or less thru summit racing. I would also get the coil, fuel pump, carb, and plug wires while your ordering from there.

you can get an EST distributor from http://www.michiganmotorz.com/delco-voyager-marine-electronic-distributor-p-119.html

the electrics can come from DBelectrical like achris mentioned.

Scott, which one of these should I order? Thank you for your time! Gary http://www.michiganmotorz.com/ignition-distributor-parts-coils-c-32_41_195.html

 

[gwizzar]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

Ok... I've had a look at all the photos you've posted (both this thread and the other) and I'm having a bit of a guess on the era.. The drive is definitely an MC-1, it has gimbal senders and the upper has a squared off 'tail'. That puts it in the early 80s.

The engine is of no help whatsoever, because it's nothing remotely like original, but some things do fit with the 80s era. Mechanical fuel pump, edge bolts on the rocker cover and centre riser exhaust manifolds...

Given that I am in the right ball-park, I can guide you to the right manuals... (I hope)....

Engine (manual #3) -> https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B1TAvwZ3Tjhfdk9PRXBWWExTU084dXpoTUhqRk9vZw
Drive (manual #4) -> https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B1...ODAxOS00YWZjLWFmZDgtZjMxNjQxOTkzMzUz&hl=en_GB

These are the genuine article (not seloc or clymer!!), so download and SAVE them....

As for replacing with marine parts, the carb I'd put on is an Edlebrock 1409 (available from, apart from other places, Summitracing), and I'd look around for a cast iron intake manifold, that ali one won't last a season in seawater... I'd just put fittings on the bottom of the exhaust manifolds, and I'd use a late (mid 90s) model thermostat housing... Merc changed the design and the new ones use way less hoses and actually work better.... Starters and alternators, try http://www.dbelectrical.com/ ... I'd also look at putting an electric fuel pump (with the appropriate switches ect..) Also while you up to your armpits, put an alarm on the oil pressure and coolant temp... (Have a search around here and you'll find I've recommended it to a few people, included all the part numbers you need)

I hope this can help you....

Chris.....

Chris, You mentioned "...and I'd look around for a cast iron intake manifold, that ali one won't last a season in seawater... I'd just put fittings on the bottom of the exhaust manifolds, and I'd use a late (mid 90s) model thermostat housing... Merc changed the design and the new ones use way less hoses and actually work better.... " Does it matter if the boat has ALWAYS been underway in freshwater (Lake Erie, Michigan, Superior, and Huron only?) Never has been on ocean or sea with salt present... But if recommended otherwise, where would you suggest I look (website) for a proper intake manifold? If you could give me a link to an example I would really appreciate it...not that I want you to do the work for me, but you have way more knowledge and a pic is worth a thousand words. Thank you for your time! Gary

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

an aluminum intake will be ok in fresh water. you will need a dual-plane intake

as for the coil, you will have to get the proper coil for your dizzy. since you got that thru the marine shop, they should have a sierra unit for about $45.

As for the harness, ebay or great lakes skipper,

 

[gwizzar]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

an aluminum intake will be ok in fresh water. you will need a dual-plane intake

as for the coil, you will have to get the proper coil for your dizzy. since you got that thru the marine shop, they should have a sierra unit for about $45.

As for the harness, ebay or great lakes skipper,

Much appreciated!!!

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

water temp sensor is usually in the therm housing or intake manifold, never in the block.

 

[gwizzar]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

water temp sensor is usually in the therm housing or intake manifold, never in the block.

Interesting... Thanks! Just keeps getting better and better. Unbelievable that people would head underway w/o thinking of all this potential risk... AMAZING...

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

i have been around boats long enough to have personally seen
2 boats blow up shortly after they left the fuel dock. 2 seriously burned and thrown from the boat
1 boat blew after the charcoal grill on the deck flipped over. 2 fatal,1 seriously burned
2 burned to the waterline with no explosion, 4 minor injuries

Potential Risk= Operator Malfunction. You live or die by the decisions, training, and parts you use on a boat.

 

[achris]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

i have been around boats long enough to have personally seen
2 boats blow up shortly after they left the fuel dock. 2 seriously burned and thrown from the boat
1 boat blew after the charcoal grill on the deck flipped over. 2 fatal,1 seriously burned
2 burned to the waterline with no explosion, 4 minor injuries

Potential Risk= Operator Malfunction. You live or die by the decisions, training, and parts you use on a boat.

Never a truer word... I was a witness at a coronial inquiry in a town about 400 miles away a few years back. I had sold and fitted an engine to a boat that later claimed a life (not my customer, but a friend of the next owner). The boat had taken on water and sunk. Turns out the bung supplied by a local boat shop was the wrong one... Point is, that's all it took, the wrong $1.50 part and someone died.

I have also been asked by our local work safety inspection department to help on a fire/explosion in an aluminium boat. That was a wire for the blower (the thing that's supposed to prevent explosions) had chaffed through on a rib and sparked... BOOM! The explosion was under the floor, the 2 guys on board survived, but they'll never walk again...

It's just too easy to get it wrong... 99% of the time you'll get away with it... I just don't want to be around when the 1% happens...

Chris......

 

[achris]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

Chris, You mentioned ... I'd just put fittings on the bottom of the exhaust manifolds, and I'd use a late (mid 90s) model thermostat housing... Merc changed the design and the new ones use way less hoses and actually work better.... " ..

OK.. in freshwater the ali manifold would be ok (not great as it's still corrosive, just not as much)... But the other problem with that manifold is as the other have stated... it's wrong for that application. The dealer you're using sounds quite good.. He may have a manifold from an engine that wasn't winterized properly... That's where I'd be looking, initially. As for the cooling system, I'll extract the cooling system section from a later model manual and email it to you... (If you PM me your email address )

Basically all you need for the exhaust manifolds is the brass elbow that screws into the bottom (I wouldn't bother with the crappy plastic pieces of rubbish they put on new engines now). The part number is 22-36305, and the thermostat housing is ... Just look at the picture I posted... That'll give you an idea of how it all hangs together too...

Chris......

 

[gwizzar]

Re: A little help identifying my engine please...

OK.. in freshwater the ali manifold would be ok (not great as it's still corrosive, just not as much)... But the other problem with that manifold is as the other have stated... it's wrong for that application. The dealer you're using sounds quite good.. He may have a manifold from an engine that wasn't winterized properly... That's where I'd be looking, initially. As for the cooling system, I'll extract the cooling system section from a later model manual and email it to you... (If you PM me your email address )

Basically all you need for the exhaust manifolds is the brass elbow that screws into the bottom (I wouldn't bother with the crappy plastic pieces of rubbish they put on new engines now). The part number is 22-36305, and the thermostat housing is ... Just look at the picture I posted... That'll give you an idea of how it all hangs together too...

Chris......

achris helped me out previously by posting, "Basically all you need for the exhaust manifolds is the brass elbow that screws into the bottom (I wouldn't bother with the crappy plastic pieces of rubbish they put on new engines now). The part number is 22-36305, and the thermostat housing is ... Just look at the picture I posted... That'll give you an idea of how it all hangs together too..." Please see the attached pics of what achris provided me and the original pic of the exhaust setup.. Please note: I no longer have any of the automotive items that you happen to see... I am wondering where the "brass elbows" should go.. Do I plug where the red X is placed and move the hose to either green arrows indicate? Thx! Especially to achris!