Mark the location of where the crankshaft stops turning when going forward. Use the timing mark and a magic marker on the vibration dampner.
Then turn the engine backwards slowly till it stops again. How many revolutions did you make before it stoped again?
Before it stopped, I turned it maybe 3 to 5 inches backwards before it stopped again.......but even with the heads and everything off I had to be gentle turning it backwards before the nut started turning
Get a torque wrench, set it at 40 lbs and tighten the bolt on the crank pulley. It shoudn't tighten, it should just turn the engine.
If not, take the nuts and rocker arms OFF the rocker studs and make sure all the valves are all the way up. Make sure all the exhaust valves are the same and all the intakes are the same.
I don't get it.....every exhaust valve spring was up higher than the intake....what have i done! I can't believe I messed up this bad...i didn't think any harm could be done adjusting valves!
I'm sorry....guess my stupidity is showing up again......
The valves are all the same level....before I measured them from the springs, which are different.....
It still won't turn.....could my crankshaft bolt be stripped???
Thanks.....I appreciate your patience....I really do know a good amount of technical info....I just have little hands on experience.....i guess everyone has a 1st time....
I will add, pistons and cyl walls were in good shape....and I coated cyls with Mobil 1 before putting it back together....this is really getting me....I couldn't have done any damage with just a wrench and not much torque right?
Wrong, is one turn on yours.
Put on #1 , use finger to feel the pressure, get the balancer to read 0
Exhaust @ 1,5.6
Intake @1,2,3
then turn balancer to;one revolution, to 0 again (this is # 6)
exhaust 2,3.4
intake 4,5,6
Did you move, or take out the distributor before you started this? If so you'll have to determine if your cam is set to fire # 1, or #6, at top dead center, for every revolution of your crankshaft, the cam only moves 1/2 turn, so it takes 2 revolutions of the crankshaft to make a complete cycle. You need to determine if you are on top dead center for #1, or #6, then adjust those particular valves according to what Coors say's here.
If you have not touched the distributor, just move your crank to TDC where your distributor shows it's firing on #1, adjust those vaives (as shown above). Then move the crank to TDC again, till the distributor shows firing on #6, and adjust those valves.
Stop trying to turn the motor with the balancer bolt. You can damage the threads doing this. Remove the front pully and go get you a crank rotating tool. I looked jegs sells one from Proform for around $20 ( Jegs #778-66782). It bolts to the balancer in place of lower pulley and gives you a location for your 1/2" breaker bar. If you want to get real serious about working on engines just go ahead and get a crank socket, degree wheel, and top dead center locator tool. Remember a man can never have too many toys or the tools to work on them
