can of worms?

[sphelps]

Are you supposed to have the battery in the same enclosed space as the fuel tank ? IDK I thought I read that was not a good idea ... I may be wrong though ...

 

[jrttoday]

that's a real good question; idk either. Tank vents outside aft and I do have vents in opposing directions for that compartment. Battery has always been there on starboard and I'm still here? lol
"Retraction" --- First few times out, had a bad problem porpoising, moved the battery behind the two deep cycle ones in the bow. Ran ten feet of 1/0 welding cable to motor and that took care of the porpoise. A few years later, a problem developed with the 100h and took it to some blankety blank shop and they said it was a voltage drop caused by cable length. They moved it back and still never fixed the problem.

Maybe put it back?

 

[StarTed]

I've been thinking about the same thing. I wouldn't like the battery next to fuel just because sparks and fuel mix too well. :flame:

I like the welding cable idea and have been thinking about that as a solution for weight distribution in my tinny. Maybe put them down the port side inside PVC conduit. for a little more wear protection.

The end terminations will be critical, especially at the battery end. Maybe coating them well with liquid tape then some heat shrink over that.

 

[jrttoday]

now I remember... lol, Porpoise was before I got my trolling motor (had to wait because MK was out). And actually used 1/0 wire from Lowe's - less expensive than welding wire and very stiff, which is better for my application. But a pain to route. Soldered lugs on and tied to a busbar aft.
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yeah... got a mess going on; and like said, the top deck was pieced together - fish don't care and I'm not looking to win any prize.

I use Vaseline on the lugs at battery - pull batteries every month or so to check water level and clean; seems to do it
The two wires coming out of the hole go to trolling motor and circuit breaker - PVC is rod holder for Crappie mostly, cane pole or whatever. Narrow compartment holds throwable floatation, 1st AID, tools etc ; no direct access for water, if water gets in there, it's because I'm sinking!!
PS: that's my 47 gallon livewell lol

 

[jrttoday]

plenty of meat for sump box - csm/24/csm outside of jig, removed jig, csm/24/csm again. Have to cut it down to 4" and that's why I run the cloth out - easier than fighting woven threads.
http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/DSCF0003_zps5nr25n3d.jpg.html]

and for anybody that cares: Fred's coffee is way better than Folgers and the cans do OK for mixing resin[/URL]

 

[88evinrude]

ive been following this build for a bit and i would like ask a question. how do you like the sea cast. i used coosa in my current build but with that said i have another bass boat that would be a good candidate for sea cast.

 

[jrttoday]

ive been following this build for a bit and i would like ask a question. how do you like the sea cast. i used coosa in my current build but with that said i have another bass boat that would be a good candidate for sea cast.

what kind of bass boat? In order for you to weigh my opinion, let me first say that I got an email notification this morning saying that "my profile is missing my education". Well, I've been missing it since the 8th Grade :lol: Not kidding:facepalm:

Personally speaking, I often question my logic for doing things a particular way, but it usually turns out what was/is best for me. I don't know enough about coosa to comment or any other similar products - there may be others less expensive and better? I don't know, but I will say "if it's possible to have a transom that is too strong, I am right there at it". This transom is one of those things you can just lay your hand on and tell...
Never having done this, doing all the preliminary, getting ducks in a row and making certain of my path was my biggest challenge - have made several changes back aft. And I am not done yet...
The keel gusset is overkill, like my buddy says, could have just capped it and left it hollow. Was just using up extra Seacast.... but am really happy with it now. Stringer gussets too

 

[88evinrude]

what kind of bass boat? In order for you to weigh my opinion, let me first say that I got an email notification this morning saying that "my profile is missing my education". Well, I've been missing it since the 8th Grade :lol: Not kidding:facepalm:

Personally speaking, I often question my logic for doing things a particular way, but it usually turns out what was/is best for me. I don't know enough about coosa to comment or any other similar products - there may be others less expensive and better? I don't know, but I will say "if it's possible to have a transom that is too strong, I am right there at it". This transom is one of those things you can just lay your hand on and tell...
Never having done this, doing all the preliminary, getting ducks in a row and making certain of my path was my biggest challenge - have made several changes back aft. And I am not done yet...
The keel gusset is overkill, like my buddy says, could have just capped it and left it hollow. Was just using up extra Seacast.... but am really happy with it now. Stringer gussets too

first i would like to say thanks for the reply. the boat that im contemplating using seacast on is a bumble bee king bee and the main reason im wanting to use it is because the stringer and knees are solid as a rock but the transom is showing signs of flex. i have used coosa on my bumble bee v154 but it needed a whole overhaul stringers transom and all.

 

[jrttoday]

^^^ best I can advise, start a thread and post it up. I'm pretty low on the totem pole when it comes to saying "how something pertaining to a boat should be built". Have knowledge/experience with other things, but refrain from giving advice unless have actual experience with....
I usually consider what others say, and then make up my own mind; but the inking process takes its own toll :lol: Whatever you do, best of luck

 

[jrttoday]

why can't a Monsoon be a Mon-Later?
Everybody needs a blue sky ; one of my favorite bands doing one of my favorite songs..
Ladies and Gentleman, The Allman Brothers, Live doing "Blue Sky"
https://youtu.be/G1jpQu6qR1E

 

[jrttoday]

100% humidity for a few.... When I punch this other hole [ 1.5 to 2" for livewell fill ] --- totally guessing here, block off or tape outside skin. Lay csm and try a small piece of 24/csm/24/ csm. PB it out, then cap with 24/csm/24/csm, let cure and drill hole for PVC?
Or just fill with resin and fiber, OR.. OR.. OR.. or does it make a difference

 

[sphelps]

Through transom ? or?? If seacast drill and install fitting with 5200 ...

 

[jrttoday]

what to do in the rain... I saw this pole 3mos ago at a pawn shop while looking for a large drill. No price tag and didn't ask then because all their others were to high.
http://

4 bucks,it's a two piece fiberglass with large nylon or ceramic guides?
how can ya tell? as much as I fish, I rarely buy new stuff; just rebuild the old. It says 5 1/2 feet, it measures 54". Made in Korea, go figure; but it is stout and will work well in tight places. I'm so used to that aluminum hull; it was and still is my 4WD Boat!!!
However... this boat I just put the transom in, I often "try" put it through the same!! lol

edit..... just now see the handle missing!! it's there, pistol grip style. Photography.... another thing I'm no good at lol
and still haven't put the carpet back in. Priority not

 

[jrttoday]

Through transom ? or?? If seacast drill and install fitting with 5200 ...

it's gonna be through outer skin/Seacast/inner skin; thought WOG had recommended oversize hole, fill with PB, and redrill for tube to fit pump. I had rather just drill for plastic nipple and 5200.
My chief concern is the way I fish, often in the thick of things. Concern with breaking off the end where the screen is

 

[sphelps]

I think Woody was thinking going through plywood .... If the seacast rots I'll eat my hat ....

 

[jrttoday]

call me obsessed. From the time I began working on this project, I can't stop thinking about stuff...
How does this sound? Drain is still attached to to galvanized pipe used when first installed livewell intake - went that route because that's when I found wetness in transom. The boat hasn't been in water since install.
http://

I'm liking how the sump drain plug is slightly countersunk, but haven't installed that yet (bad weather). I could possibly countersink the screen, maybe not the full 2". OR - starting to hate that word!! lol - make a screen/trap inside before pump? (painfully!!) :lol:
Thanks Dr Phelps!!

 

[jrttoday]

what in the world is he doing now
http://

keel gusset tabbing was thick and kinda knew i'd have to make an adjustment - 1/4" took care of it. Hot patched for now, has to come back out to get the drain tube glassed in good.... There was a time, and not too long ago; I could have stick welded that right where it's at - passed any test, first time. So much for that!! lol

help me out, am thinking a hot patch on the bottom side just underneath red mark; before I put it back in? Then working glass with fingers underneath.
That will put the box 3/4 to 1" off the hull. Top will need to be trimmed more but will still be an 1" deeper than original
Maybe it's just me? but that transom seems harder with each passing day

edit___ I think the black marks on the gusset are from where my mouse goes crazy on Photobucket and didn't get it all :lol:

 

[sphelps]

You glassing wood to the bottom to use for mounting the pump ? I have seen those folks make offset brackets that mount to the top deck area but fasten the pump down low where it needs to be ... If ya know a welder he might could fabricate something for you ..
I thought the black marks was Freds coffee grounds ... :ranger:

 

[jrttoday]

OK funny man!! You shoulda made that a couple different posts, am all confused now!! not certain what to address first?
the wood is only there for positioning while figuring out how/possibilities etc. - putting a glass bottom in, pump mounts to it and keeps water out, we hope
5200 on screws for pump
Already figured pump will mount in back port side of box - left of drain tube. Transducer to mount to hull through front of box.
I get the medium roast; it's pretty strong, but not strong enough to bleed through!

At this stage, just making the effort is close enough to perfect
http://

back gouged the seam, fill tomorrow....
This project is about like every job I've ever worked - understaffed, under-financed, over budget, under-tooled, deadlines not met, over-worked, underpaid, undertrained, tools missing or broken (and misused), safety regs not adhered to, no vacation, work when you're sick/injured. no arguing with the boss (in my case, they'd lock me up for arguing with self :lol:​), work through lunch, never mind the rain........ and 100% rollback every day!

And that is a thought on pump mounting; the hose I have is stiff very stiff < heavy wall > and where it will be; might be a good idea to anchor the pump down. Thanks!!

 

[88evinrude]

^^^ best I can advise, start a thread and post it up. I'm pretty low on the totem pole when it comes to saying "how something pertaining to a boat should be built". Have knowledge/experience with other things, but refrain from giving advice unless have actual experience with....
I usually consider what others say, and then make up my own mind; but the inking process takes its own toll :lol: Whatever you do, best of luck

thanks for the reply and sorry for the late reply with turkey season open im not home much. i will be sure to post a thread when i get ready im jumping to far ahead i still need to finish my current boat project.