can of worms?

[sphelps]

Looks good jr ! You gunna paint or gell coat the area before you start putting things back together ?

 

[jrttoday]

at the very least, paint. And it's Bullseye, not Killz, that it matters? Also have dark green colorant to add. BUT!, the gallon of Herculiner will more than do the open deck forward, including the lids - which will be painted some shade of green, not interested in black.
Still have to make a mount for the t/t pump and install to transom near center of this cover.
and now that i'm looking, it will probably take a day to dig the plastic etc out of the sump drain hole :facepalm:

Guessing my biggest probably is that what's acceptable to me isn't to others, and what's acceptable to others isn't to me..... Paying attention to detail creates work that's sometimes not worth the time/effort involved.

 

[jrttoday]

lower back muscles were burning!! but oh well....
http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/DSCF0002_zpsbcydsx1n.jpg.html]

tain't that bad, just some touch up and remove frays/puddling I left.... That last little piece of 24 in the tray was an afterthought and "why" it is white - wet out OK, but not as much resin over top.
What killed me was where the trough ties into the deck. SHOULD have rounded the deck better; spent way too much time there[/URL]
Need smooth the whole thing out just a tad, anyway. Have to clean up around the livewell fill also. black spots in resin are sex bugs, probably leave 'em lol.
Call me slow, but just figured out today that two inches of electrical tape folded over the corners of woven will keep YOU FROM UNRAVELING!!! it also keeps the woven from doing the same :lol:
Hope everyone had a pleasant Mother's Day

 

[jrttoday]

had I been thinking, would have glassed this separate to begin with; instead of dealing with all those little transitions, muscles burning, and fumes!!
http://

looks like air around the PVC nipple, but not, es glare... had to run back and check!! A lot of trouble for 3/8" depth that probably won't do much...... but that's what I get for thinking! Hey, I practice my insanity in constructive ways these days

edit___ and yes, it slopes to keel

 

[jrttoday]

what would gelcoat do for me in that compartment? can it be brushed/rolled? No compressed air, using electric leaf blower to blow everything down, works great.
Didn't blow out the last time after using 60 grit tiger paw first, then 7" sander with 80 then 150 grit pad on the trough. Went back with csm and finish woven in trough.

that's why everything else looks lighter, just saying. I've had little in the way of a plan for all of this, if any. But things are coming together and it's really starting to sink in.... what I have done or am creating (with help from many). All ego aside (because that's not me), this is one monster of a transom

 

[sphelps]

what would gelcoat do for me in that compartment? can it be brushed/rolled?

Seal up all the little holes and a bit more waterproffing ... Yes and yes .... Some like to use bilge coat ... You can just paint if ya want ... She'll still float without it ... All up to you ...

 

[jrttoday]

sphelps it's stuff like this that eats up time, and it's all been like this lol
http://


I like to stand back and look before I leap because rework will kill ya. I'm taking your suggestion, but with glass. I can come off the gusset overtop the pump, wedged tightly, no screws through the sump and the hose is stiff enough to keep it in the corner. It would still move enough with force to remove the pump.
Or, come off the seat support to hold the hose (bottom corner has to be trimmed too). Any suggestions Mr iboats!! I've really appreciated you sticking here with me; it goes a long ways knowing there is support here.... thanks

the livewell fill hose needs be tied up and shortened, but it's looking like I will remove the livewell after all - found the drain tube loose today. Headache for another day......

 

[sphelps]

Your trying to secure the bilge pump ... ? Maybe support it off of the vertical support in front of the fuel tank .. a more bendable type hose may make it easier ..idk
Getting a bit cramped in there ain't it . :lol:

 

[jrttoday]

cramped? compared to what? a John Boat!! that's about all this is, but fiberglass. Not going to live back there..... already have :lol:
getting outta there and going this route because a gallon of Herculiner supposedly gives two coats over 55/60 sq ft. I'm pushing somewhere close and want heavier in places and lighter in others. Want to do it all at one time - open deck, livewell lids and under the livewell, under fuel tank and some in that compartment.
http://



My boat is perfect in that it isn't - can cut stuff with a hatchet and it doesn't matter. Fire extinguisher mounts on cover that was over the hose and will go back there; am making for better drainage on port side bow to stern. Will still have a manual drain for livewell in addition to pumping out = that's what that hose was, manual drain

 

[jrttoday]

don't get me wrong because things do matter, but some things I do have to let go of. That's a real big livewel - 33.5 long/15" deep and 19 wide; or 42 gallons, just did the math, I keep forgetting :facepalm: it gets bigger when I forget :lol:
The point is that as big as it is, I'm not physically able to get down in there and operate a grinder safely, or at all. Especially since I tore a rotator cuff patting myself on the back :lol: JUST KIDDING!! I heard that one time and think it funny, just offering some levity.

It's simple algebra and geometry, but I still know few people these days that could create an abstract point in a three dimensional field and nail it (done all in my head without the aid of a drawing or calculator). If I'm proud of anything with this project, it's how the livewell fill plumbing came out. Fiberglass, PVC, and wood are foreign materials to me; they haven't the same properties as steel - different to work with.
And those raised deck pieces, had they been steel plate, could have sculpted them with a torch no problem. With so many different angles as they mate to the transom and gunwales, took lots of time without proper woodworking tools.

Just saying, this project is dragging on and I need a second wind...... well.... maybe a 3rd or 4th? lol
All of this bending over at the waist, my lower back muscles have pumped up and I now have to loosen my belt!! maybe I'm dyslexic??? :facepalm: :lol:

 

[jrttoday]

http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/DSCF0001_zpsjc5h2feh.jpg.html]

^^^ of course.... there was a bug in it I had to get out before I took this pic ^^^ lol
and they say to mask everything you don't want Herculiner on, which I didn't do because it all gets painted over. Wish they'd said that about Seacast :facepalm:[/URL]



Needs a total wash/wax, but three days of prep on the deck was more than I cared for. Maybe some would have masked, but it just doesn't matter... I did mask off the top corner of bow on upper deck - both sides - for step; if you can see it beside foot control, which normally stays in the floor.



underneath livewell, still have to put the bottom back in


further proof of piecing the upper deck together; drain for the rain!!! She ain't real pretty but pretty solid!!!


only interested in traction here, no more carpet


Have a little left of the gallon, touch up in the daylight. New glass around the sump gets painted only; better for water flow.
I had rather mix Seacast for 12hrs straight than do this again!!

 

[sphelps]

Ya think the black floor might get a bit warm ? I know down here in fL the fish would start cooking as soon as it hit the deck ...
Looks good and grippy .. Was that the Heculiner or did you add some texture ?

 

[jrttoday]

Herculiner has texture/particles and you have to stir it often during application. They say you can spray it like paint, but two foam rollers come with it.
I'm going to add enough dark green colorant to Bullseye to offset the glare from white and repaint the deck/lids etc. Underneath livewell gets none.

How much paint and colorant will be an experiment because I don't want it too dark and not wanting to lose traction being too thick. Was mainly after the sealing properties of Herculiner - it's been in my 12 footer fifteen or so years, no leaks or other problems - but the texture is a plus.

this was no easy job!!! Sanding every round inch lol of the deck, often in places I could barely see, never mind reach!!! Blowing and sweeping out a zillion times; making a few repairs with fg I could barely see and reach, then going back to sand them too. Wiping it all down with acetone and THEN!! going back with Ajax, a scrub brush and warm soapy water over it all.

Rinsing down with the hose was the first time in forever that water has been on the deck. It all drained quickly back to the sump and out
Have to reread the instructions, think it 96hrs to fully cure? but that mighta been if used over concrete?

 

[jrttoday]

yea.. four days to full cure; light traffic/load after 18-24 hours. Spray gun gives least texture, foam rollers the most. I have one roller left, wonder how it would do for paint?
Spots I thought need touchup weren't there in daylight; night lighting and flash made it look like it did. I'm pleased with it; and the lids seem lighter than they did with carpet - should be stronger, too. I'm guessing the gallon weighed 15lbs; spread out over 15' of boat or 12' of deck, weight impact is negligible.

 

[jrttoday]

what are my options here?

http://

somewhere in my travels I heard that Bullseye, Killz and the like are only a primer? - that another coat of something needed overtop?
Previously had used just Bullseye with blue colorant and sand - no problems that I was aware of, but.... Should I stay with that or......???

First time in forever that I left my boat out in the rain; other than half the time I fish!!! lol That's why I have drainage and a 1200 gph pump, and really need the deck sealed and slip-proof.
Herculiner says faster cure in high humidity and temps - got the humidity part down!! :lol:
But really, what do I want to paint it with? Floor decking, inside of gunwales, and lids?

edit___ guess I need rent a jackhammer to get the rest of the Seacast off the driveway

 

[sphelps]

How about using rusto enamel with the hardener ... With oil based primer ...

 

[jrttoday]

I know very little of paint - when you say hardener, I think of a hard slick surface. And am not wanting slick paint on lids or floor. Do I even need a primer on glass?

 

[sphelps]

What all are ya wanting to paint .. Over the Heculiner and the top cap ... I could not tell you what will stick to the Herculiner .. I thought it was some type of rubbery stuff like bed liner ..
As far as the glass yes you want to prime it . At least a couple coats .. Sand with 100 grit before prime .. When you add the hardener to the enamel it makes it more durable and will dry much faster ... You can usually put another coat on in3 or 4 hours ... Woodonglass has a good link at the bottom of his post ... Tractor paint from the Tractor supply store will work fine and they sell the hardener ...
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...lamingo-splashed-w-pics?p=5172021#post5172021

 

[jrttoday]

^^^ thank you very mucho !! Even with the rain, I have many fires around here, and not just with the boat - I can't figure out why my banking opens up in a protected browser to guard my 77 cents :rofl:Just saying, I'm so busy with other affairs, haven't had time to sit down and research; thanks for the link.

Thought I'd already said, but, it amounts to everything inside but not the upper decking. The lids are upper decking, but get painted. Haven't touched it yet today and may be too early to push testing it - the Herculiner had not previously felt rubbery, seems like it was setting up kind of hard, but what can ya tell? hmmmmmm

Foot traffic is all and a 40lb Red would just go back in the water

edit___ just took a quick peek at that link. I've seen WOG's work before and I'm always impressed!! However, where I fish, if my boat looked THAT GOOD, I'd probably scare the fish away :lol::lol:

 

[sphelps]

The paint is just an in- expensive option .. The way it looks when finished is purely determined by the application ....