can of worms?

jrttoday

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yea... planned on painting it, just operator problems!! lol Hurky comes in a "gray" but have never seen it, didn't want that anyway. Polyurethane based is what they say, no mention of primer???
Have a couple more rain days before i can get at the paint. Not going to brush it, but am going to HF today for my 3rd box of 2" chip :lol:
I found the biggest joke of all to be HF Super Glue, what a waist!!
 

jrttoday

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thought it was a bruise on each bicep, Herculiner Tattoos lol. Had recently bought long sleeved chemical gloves as my 6yo ones were peeling. Acetone and steel wool didn't quite get it all off... the perils of.... :lol:
The biggest problem with long sleeved gloves is my hands sweat in 'em and water pours out when I bend my elbows, but I do like 'em :rolleyes: lol
 

jrttoday

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does the chicken cross the road or stay under the porch? This is some why I don't paint, just never had need to learn and now seems confusing. Herculiner says polyurethane based and nothing about oil or water, or primer. I stumbled on this and the question of durability comes up

Polyurethane

Essentially a plastic in the form of a liquid until it dries, polyurethane is available in both water- and oil-based options, and comes in varieties from satin to glossy.
Water-based polyurethane is popular because of its low odor and low toxicity. It goes on clear without adding a slight color that oil-based versions can, and it dries much faster. As with shellac, water-based polyurethane won't hold up well to heat and chemicals. It's good for bookcases, desks, side tables and picture frames ? anything that won't be exposed to extremes.
Minwax Polycrylic is an example of a fortified water-based polyurethane than can stand up a bit better to rough conditions. It also can go over oil-based finishes and can be applied using synthetic-bristle brushes, a foam roller or a rag, as can other water-based polyurethanes. Water-based oil-modified polyurethane is a relatively new product that combines the durability of an oil base with the cleanup of a water base. This product can actually be used on wooden floors.
Oil-based polyurethane is slightly more durable than water-based, especially when it comes to handling heat, so a kitchen table is a good candidate. It adds a slight color tone and will bring out the richness of wood.
When working with oil-based polyurethane, use a respirator in a well-ventilated area. Apply using a natural-bristle brush or rag. Oil-based takes much longer to dry and cure than water-based, so plan accordingly and follow the manufacturer's directions.
Both oil- and water-based polyurethane can be applied to latex/acrylic paint; however, oil-based polyurethane will create a yellow or amber hue, especially to light colors. To add durability without affected color, use a water-based finish.
You can also purchase polyurethane in a spray can which makes it a bit easier to apply, especially on large projects. Wipe-on polyurethane is used primarily by woodworkers who want to create a ?hand-rubbed? finish on special projects. These two run the extremes of ease of use, but produce excellent results.

And now, I'm wondering if I could/should add hardener to Polycrylic or a similar product?
 
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jrttoday

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being the closest, went to Sherwin-William's first - idiots!! Tractor Supply, no help. Walmart, was kinda surprised, they had a clue lol. Lowe's, more idiots. Home Depot, I feel like I got what was looking for - oil based polyurethane in any color. Ended up with what we'll call a "frog" green. Light enough to reflect sunlight without glare.
Maybe get it on in a day or two....?
 

sphelps

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Sorry , got no clue what to use on the herculiner ... Sounds like ya got it figured out .....
 

jrttoday

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Sorry if I wasn't clear... POLYURETHANE lol is what Herculiner says paint it with. I'm "hoping" to paint it all tomorrow, but it's looking iffy.... My weekend calendar is looking like I'll need a week off to recover :facepalm: and I don't drink alcohol :lol:
 

jrttoday

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another weather induced intermission!!
https://youtu.be/km4-eKvv3EM?list=RDkm4-eKvv3EM

if you've been following along, I've been saying this all along; I'm no expert or guru on any of this. But at least am making the effort and have built me a raft (rather BARGE!! :rolleyes: :lol: ) and she's almost ready for floating. Can't wait!!
My point being, is there really any reason you should not at least try?

My health may be failing - nothing i can do about that - but my glassing skills have improved. Glass Guy only made the first piece of csm for the inner skin and rolled out port side of inner skin. Except for that and the corners of same, all the rest of glass work is mine.
I'm more about structural integrity than how something looks; sometimes the two go hand in hand, sometimes not. In my line of thinking, if it works like its supposed to, it looks just fine.
 

jrttoday

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Accuweather ain't so accurate! Everything back outside and got some sanding done, but only showing the bottom for now...
http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/DSCF0003_zpsif4yfwix.jpg.html]

At rest in the water, many are fooled by the flat nose bow. Needs scrubbing, but a pretty fast hull. Not a pad boat, but capable of getting airborne.
Not certain you can see it, but it's still blocked up 2" on starboard side under transom[/URL]
For what's classified as a flat bottom boat, she rides good in rough water because of her weight; just not real dry in crosswinds :lol:
 

sphelps

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Down here If ya don't like the weather just wait ten minutes and it will change .... :rolleyes:
Yep I would imagine with that big motor it moves along pretty good ...I think I would leave the airborne stuff to James Bond though .:lol:
 

jrttoday

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ha, down here, you don't have to wait!! Typically, I like rain,,sometimes love it. Just while I'm trying to work right now has to be outside - no room inside with the motor off the boat (two motors in stands) and cutting table and etc etc etc.

With that narrow a beam, I'm not comfortable riding on the skeg. Was fun in my old Skeeter to pop up and ride it, but that was also 20ish years ago. Having big power doesn't mean you have to use it. However, I made this low water pickup for the 115; opened the bottom port to just over double size, lowered the screen, and made plugs from aluminum flat bar, and epoxied over the plugs (epoxy not shown here).

http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/005_zpsjgafwtoa.jpg.html]

I want the ability should the need arise; plus with the motor mounted higher, the odds of a direct hit is reduced[/URL]
 

jrttoday

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Took my CMC Wannabe jack plate apart for accurate drilling
http://


I've made enough templates to know that the best template for drilling holes is the actual piece that gets bolted. Lowered the mounting holes 1.5" and clamped it to the transom 3/4" lower than where it was - which raises the motor 3/4" from where it was.
Considering my 100 was up as far as it would go and needed slightly more - an 1/8th or 1/4" ?? Only experimentation will find the sweet spot for the 115

One of these days, I'll finish off the drain hole and livewell fill hole :facepalm:
 

jrttoday

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once upon a time, I heard a comedian talking about his girlfriend complaining about his dusty apartment. She demonstrates by wiping her finger across the top of his TV.
"you see that?" yeah, how am I going to fill that back in?? lol

That's sorta where I'm at - I had to at least take the bottom out of livewell; for my peace of mind. But how am I going to fill that back in? :facepalm: I made the decision to cut it that way and figure out how later - now is later. Way too much work to remove the whole box.

I want, it needs solid glass but don't want it stuck to the floor. Am thinking, just put it in and glass it best as possible - then 2 layers csm all of it?
in other news.... am still working in the aft compartment :facepalm: :lol:
 

sphelps

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Hmmmmm , ok , this is what I would do ...

I would lay up a new really thick skin the same way you did the transom ... Make a cardboard template of the whole bottom .... Get it fairly tight ... Cut your skin to match ... Take some of the foam and cut it the correct size so the new skin lays on the foam at the right height .. Make sure ya do all the necessary grinding and prep for a good bond . You know the routine .... pb in some fillets and tab with csm , cloth , csm .. Without taking it all apart thats probably your best option ...
Unless ya want to just throw one of those home made cooler/livewells in there ... ;)
 

jrttoday

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THANKS!! but that's almost too simple... lol. I'm too close to see the obvious solution. Was thinking as I stated because I'm not wanting to make another drain hole - the top left corner of the piece in the floor is countersunk for the old manual drain; and wanted to keep it just in case.
definitely a better plan whether I keep the drain or not :)
Also to save on resin, the old bottom is thick and may piece it together and trim down? Haven't set down and done the math, and NOT going to, but I know for a fact that I'm already just over the $1000 mark for this project - not counting coffee and BC's !!! lol
 

jrttoday

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Do you have access to the bottom side??
bottom side of what? I have access to anything I want to make access to :lol: but we're trying to stay away from that!! It's all enclosed, but the bottom of reservoir was cut out for acces to coat the floor with Herculiner ____ that it even needed it? But I did have a leak develop in the drain pipe while I was working on the transom - pipe would spin.
Anyhow, "think" lol I have her figured out.... just got overwhelmed for a minute!!! lol When you don't do this stuff all the time, and then suddenly you are..... taxing on the brain. I'm passed ready to fish and my boat isn't
 
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jrttoday

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my glassing skills still may rival no one, but I'm OK with it...
http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/DSCF0001_zpsww88yi0h.jpg.html]

ended up with three layers of 24 because I had the material. The box is for mounting my t/t pump - a 10" 2x4 slides in with bolts. I figure the board will serve as a large washer on the glass and I can swap it out with ease if the board ever rots etc. Box is also 3 layers 24; had to hold up the bottom with glove for awhile and still have to sand front end[/URL]
and the tops of gunwales still need to be cut back 8" +or-
 

jrttoday

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really.... am out there trying to get stuff done, but people keep stopping by and I'm always on break anyway :facepalm:
http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/DSCF0001_zpsldwwwkoq.jpg.html]

$20 a piece, a friend down the street dropped 'em by. The tires on my trailer are at least 20 years old and have kept me from using the highway.
The main reason for this job taking so long is my health - otherwise, this project could probably be done inside two weeks, maybe a week or less for anyone familiar with fiberglass etc. Having to figure it all out as I go has played a part, too.[/URL]
 

jrttoday

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retraction, re: done inside two weeks. That was something Glass Guy said and I kinda agreed with. But when I look back through this thread, I kinda doubt it. It's been a lot of work!! and a lot of tiny little details!! Just because it's only a 56" by 20" transom hasn't meant it gets less attention; it has received the same or more than a larger one.

Glass Guy hasn't been here to help measure/fit/install or figure out how it all goes; I've had nothing to copy from, much has been created or conceptualized then built. And then, I might nitpick lol, but it usually pays off.
But yes, if you're better skilled at this stuff, inside two weeks, might be possible. I wouldn't know.
Based on my track record, what's left, and other Life stuff, it's looking like one more month before completion?

But the value of doing it yourself cannot be equated in dollars
 
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