I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

[ezmobee]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

Transom looks good. Looks like you managed to find some real nice wood for that also. My deck plywood was full of voids.

 

[fshngho]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

I agree with your choice of rivets Papa. Thats what I am going with. I just noticed yesterday the angle at the top of transom wood and thought the same as you....carp! I gotta cut that right, measure many times as you said. I'm not at that point yet though. Great work and thanks for the lessons, (see, I'm at school here at IBoats)

 

[barato]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

Papa, you're really a craftsman. nice work. and yeah, i'll pile on with agreement on the rivets too.

 

[paparoof]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

Hey thanks y'all! I'm REALLY glad I dropped some cash on a new circular saw at the beginning of this project. I was thinking at the time it was unnecessary, but I know my old saw would have had a very hard time making that angled cut at the top of the transom. The adjustments on this new saw made it very easy to get it just right. The carbide blade sure didn't hurt none either.

And yeah, the marine ply I got from Menards. Cheapest I could find in town and it's actually pretty nice wood. The 3/4" is seven plies and there are a few voids here and there, but NOTHING compared to regular old AC ply. This stuff is really clean.

And here's the REALLY cool part - I had to order another sheet of the 3/4" for the cabin walls (forgot about that the first order). It came all wrapped up in plastic and protected by a sheet of regular 3/8" plywood and a sheet of 2" pink insulation foam that I need for flotation foam anyway! That stuff is $20 at HD! And the 3/8" is worth at least $10, so the $70 I paid for a single sheet of 3/4" suddenly became $40! So the lesson here is when you order Marine ply from Menard's, order it a single sheet at a time and get all you flotation foam for free!

 

[North Beach]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

PR, just thought I'd let you know, i'm using yours and JAS'S threads as tutorials since I'm behind you on the same hull.

BTW, you're doing a really good job here!

 

[paparoof]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

PR, just thought I'd let you know, i'm using yours and JAS'S threads as tutorials since I'm behind you on the same hull.

BTW, you're doing a really good job here!

Thanks NB, but this ain't gonna look anything like the Liquid Limo. You are still the master!

 

[jasoutside]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

Man, I love Menards! Sounds like you got a good score there, well done buddy!

 

[fshngho]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

Thanks NB, but this ain't gonna look anything like the Liquid Limo. You are still the master!

I think everyone would agree with you on that Papa.
NB, you need to add your new project to the restoration thread. Would you add mine too please?
Papa, are you going to wrap the transom in glass or just epoxy?

 

[paparoof]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

Papa, are you going to wrap the transom in glass or just epoxy?

Nope, just epoxy. I have to believe it's plenty strong as is. I think it'd be cool to have another layer on the inside for the nuts and washers to pull against so they don't press themselves into and through the wood over time. The nuts and washers on the factory D-rings were pulled a good 1/2" into the boards. But fiberglass epoxy is so hard that I think all that pressure would just crack the epoxy. A sheet of aluminum would make more sense, but I can probably achieve essentially the same effect by using really big washers for everything so they spread the load out.

 

[GLG fishing]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

I helped a buddy with his transom last spring. We used fender washers for most bolts and we made some large washers out of quarter inch aluminum for the factory D-rings. So far it has worked out real good.
The new d-rings we used had lots of thread of we put the custom washers on both sides of the transom. Looks sharp

Nice build paparoof and will follow your progress.
GLG

 

[paparoof]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

I helped a buddy with his transom last spring. We used fender washers for most bolts and we made some large washers out of quarter inch aluminum for the factory D-rings. So far it has worked out real good.
The new d-rings we used had lots of thread of we put the custom washers on both sides of the transom. Looks sharp

Nice build paparoof and will follow your progress.
GLG

That gives me an idea - a customer of mine is a washer stamping factory here in Minneapolis. I should go hit 'em up for some custom over sized, heavy duty washers....

 

[paparoof]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

And that reminded me of a question I've been meaning to ask -

I know mixing different types of metals generally equals corrosion down the road, so how does this apply when I'm planning on using stainless steel bolts and screws on an aluminum hull? Do stainless steel and aluminum get along well? Are there specific types of stainless steel I need to use or is it all good?

 

[Gnarly]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

anytime you immerse different metals in an electrolyte you have galvanic action, If your going to use stainless fastners try and use sacrificial aluminum /stainless washers underneath them so that the corrosion occurs in the washers , aluminum washer against the hull and stainless washer under the stainless fastner and ensure you have enough zinc on the boat. Try and stay with 50 series aluminum rivets as the 20 series aluminum (aviation) is alloyed with copper, a definite no no on an aluminum boat especially in salt.

 

[paparoof]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

anytime you immerse different metals in an electrolyte you have galvanic action, If your going to use stainless fastners try and use sacrificial aluminum /stainless washers underneath them so that the corrosion occurs in the washers , aluminum washer against the hull and stainless washer under the stainless fastner and ensure you have enough zinc on the boat. Try and stay with 50 series aluminum rivets as the 20 series aluminum (aviation) is alloyed with copper, a definite no no on an aluminum boat especially in salt.

Hey thanks for the advice. This boat will never see salt water. The rivets I copied above say they're 5000 series aluminum so is that the same thing as 50 series (or is it 100 times better)?

Aluminum Type - Rivet is 5000 series; mandrel is 5000-7000 series

 

[Gnarly]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

In a nutshell first digit is the alloy group, 2nd indicates modifications in impurity limits , 3rd and 4th identify the different alloys in a group

1 aluminum
2 copper
3 manganese
4 silicon
5 magnesium
6 magnesium & silicon
7 zinc
8 other elements
9 unused series

Tempers are designated following the alloy #'s, F= as fabricated ( no control over final temper, O = annealed, H= strain hardened and T= thermally treated ( usually solution heat treatment), then it gets into tempers by number and there's a pile of them

so 50 series just refers to magnesium group with no modification of the original alloy,
5052 H-34, 5083-H321 etc

 

[DonRamon]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

Paparoof,

As long as you use stainless on aluminium, it's not stable. There will always be a small current flowing due to moist and dirt acting as electolyte, slowly sacrificing the metal. Though the process can be very slow and some don't see the issue in it, from engineering perspective these things keep nagging your conscience. One sound solution of stopping the current flow being used in the industry is a teflon sleeve over the bolt and a teflon washer, but I don't know whether these are readily available for that size, but surely something can be made-up if you're keen on perfection. My problem is that I wouldn't be able to sleep without the teflon... I'm still looking for professional help on that issue..

 

[fshngho]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

Dang Papa, now your very intelligent & important questions are going to make me lose sleep. I used ss screws to replace a few bad hull rivits. What do you all suggest? Should I remove them now? I'll need to use them (or something) when I repair/replace my knee brace.
Sorry for the hijack Papa.

 

[paparoof]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

Dang Papa, now your very intelligent & important questions are going to make me lose sleep. I used ss screws to replace a few bad hull rivits. What do you all suggest? Should I remove them now? I'll need to use them (or something) when I repair/replace my knee brace.
Sorry for the hijack Papa.

It's not a hijack since it's the same question!

Is there such a thing as aluminum screws/nuts/bolts? They wouldn't be very strong would they?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

Are there not SS bolts from the factory in the transom, windshield mounting, interior pieces, etc etc?

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: I'm an owner! 1975 Islander 22

I'm just going to use thick plastic washers or hey...whaddabout a piece of cork insulated between the alum and the washer?

EDIT...It just hit me..Under my bow, there is a sheet of thin cork wallpaper under the alum skin..and everything (bow light, anchor chocks, horn) is thru bolted with the nuts never directly against the bare alum..SC must have known sumthin bout rust?