Light white smoke / steam water ?? Normal ?

[Oshkosh1]

Here's how you do a power setting specific ignition chop(you're not chopping the throttle) test;
Identify what RPM range you're having the issue. Run the engine to that RPM and without touching the throttle...kill the ignition.
Pull and look at the plugs, they'll be your "window" into what the engine is doing at that specific moment in time. IF you even move the throttle slightly you've skewed the results. Now, in a car, boat, snowmobile it's a pretty simple test. I've done it in a single engine piston airplane. I had to calculate my glide, touchdown and taxi run to the hangar!lol! It worked and we all had a good laugh.

 

[bruceb58]

Here's how you do a power setting specific ignition chop(you're not chopping the throttle) test;
Identify what RPM range you're having the issue. Run the engine to that RPM and without touching the throttle...kill the ignition.
Pull and look at the plugs, they'll be your "window" into what the engine is doing at that specific moment in time. IF you even move the throttle slightly you've skewed the results. Now, in a car, boat, snowmobile it's a pretty simple test. I've done it in a single engine piston airplane. I had to calculate my glide, touchdown and taxi run to the hangar!lol! It worked and we all had a good laugh.

Problem with cutting the ignition on a boat is that if you get the slightest amount of reversion by chopping the ignition, you ingest water. The slight amount of time going from the speed to idle to turning off the motor is not enough to change the look of the plugs.

I do the way you suggest when jetting my motorcycle. Its just a possible problem when doing it with a boat engine.

 

[ilove2fixx]

Idk what you guys are talking about lol
my rpm gauge isn't working
so run it for 10 min , then accelerate quickly when it's about to die , remove the key?

 

[bruceb58]

That may be part of your problem. A bad tach can cause all sorts of ignition issues. Disconnect your tach or buy a new one would be my next step.

 

[Oshkosh1]

Idk what you guys are talking about lol
my rpm gauge isn't working
so run it for 10 min , then accelerate quickly when it's about to die , remove the key?

Don't be too worried about doing a chop test...that's more of a fine tuning test and for the most part the plugs look OK.

Your plugs look to be fairly old so I'm guessing so are the other basic tune-up components(wires/cap/rotor) so I'd either verify that they're all clean/working properly or replace them as well.

Ensure all of your coil connections are clean and tight as well.

 

[ilove2fixx]

When I bought the boat he included all the old parts he changed out, plugs and cap..

so I read the volts to the tach meter it shows 11.8v

but no voltage on the mph gauge

also I notice my choke is wide open in the morning ?

 

[bruceb58]

also I notice my choke is wide open in the morning ?

Give your throttle one pump and it should close...or at least it should.

 

[Rick Stephens]

When I bought the boat he included all the old parts he changed out, plugs and cap..

so I read the volts to the tach meter it shows 11.8v

but no voltage on the mph gauge

also I notice my choke is wide open in the morning ?

I would think with the electric choke that it is closed no matter what, when cold. Check it before you start up, see if the pump on the throttle closes it like thumper recommended.

11.8 is a bit low.

Should just be a hose for the speedo. It runs off water pressure, not electrical.

 

[ilove2fixx]

No Title

Ok will do guys I found out today spark plug 1 is cracked , I didn't notice it cracked the other day though.. And also had a transmission guy mechanic to check my engine and he said my cap is bad and since my plug is broken might as do a. Tune up.. Also we saw lots of droplets of water in the carb uh oh..Maybe water in the tank again? Last year I had water in the tank to.. maybe water leaks into the boat from the fishing rod holder hole and sits in top of the gas tank and seeps into the tank that's what I'm assuming.. Will pump all gas out and put fresh gas or is ok to take out the water and reuse that gas ? It's about 12 gallons . And half if it fresh premium gas.. Hopefully after doing all that I hope my issues will be resolved Also Are these spark plugs ok for my engine ? Cheap champion part number 401 ? They crossed referenced my old plugs and came up with those ? They just seem a little shorter than the old Ngk BPR6EFS longer reach ? Are those old NGKs even the right ones for my engine ? 2003 3.0l ? Maybe the old owner had wrong plugs in there the whole time ?

 

[ilove2fixx]

Hello anyone there ? Lol

Update :
I pumped all the gas out and put fresh gas in

I have gapped and installed new plugs
New cap and rotor

And she still runs horrible at idle , very hard to start

When accelerating she dies ...

 

[flipbro]

Compression test lol!!

 

[Oshkosh1]

Rebuild the carb for sure now...after the compression test. Post your numbers. IF the "dry" numbers seem low, do a "wet" test by squirting about a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder(ensuring you don't simply fill up the dish) and see if the numbers change.

 

[ilove2fixx]

Ok will do compression test today or tomorrow .. this boat is causing me a lot of headache lol

Also my RPM gauge isn't working , another person said it will cause me lots of issues ??
But I ran it last year pretty good even with bad tach meter ?

 

[ilove2fixx]

Did a compression test
Cylinder 1 80
# 2 90
# 3 125
# 4 140

3rd and 4th engine almost starts though and puffs like twice and makes the reading jump from 90ish to 125-140
But cylinder 1 and 2 doesn't puff or attempts to run just cuts off instantly and stop at 90ish

 

[flipbro]

There's your problem. Now a leak down to find out were your losing pressure. My guess is head gasket. The first thing any one should do when trouble shooting a poor running engine is a compression test.

 

[Alumarine]

3rd and 4th engine almost starts though and puffs like twice and makes the reading jump from 90ish to 125-140
But cylinder 1 and 2 doesn't puff or attempts to run just cuts off instantly and stop at 90ish

This is hard to understand. There should be no "puffing" or "attempt to run"

To do a proper compression test.
with a preferably warm motor
ground the coil wire that goes to the distributor
remove all plugs and fully open the throttle (while in neutral)
insert compression gauge and crank motor 3-4 turns

Are you using a screw in type gauge?

 

[ilove2fixx]

Ok guys I redid the test again for cylinder 1 and 2
Theyre getting 125-130..

so 125-140 across the board
engine looks good ..

All that's left is timing or carburetor


and Yes Marc C I'm using a screw in tester , throttle is wide open .. I give it 3-4 cranks..And I didn't remove all the plugs , I went one by one with all the rest still connected .. on a cold engine and I didn't short it , but my readings now are
all the same on all cylinders , that should be good ?

 

[ilove2fixx]

No Title

Also guys I still see water in carb when running her for the first time in any given day? Is that normal from heat ?? I already sucked all the gas out and put fresh gas ? And checked the fuel separated cup no water was found ? Here's a pic

 

[bruceb58]

Looks like condensation. Just so you know, the fuel going by the throttle plates makes it very cold as you have fuel evaporating as it leaves the jets.

Disconnect your tach. I know it isn't working but need to get it out of the equation.

 

[ilove2fixx]

Just disconnect the tach from the dashboard ?