Need help with transom repair w/pics

[Woodonglass]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

I just went and measured. She's only 16" wide (Port to Starboard) by 12" deep (Bow to Stern).

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

Thanks .... I made mine a little smaller but then again my boat is smaller. Mine is 12" (port to starboard) by 7 1/2" bow to stern. I have a bolt for the stringer just beyond that so I kept it short so as not to interfere with this bolt. Do you think I should make it larger?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

Not unless you plan on swamping her!!!
I don't even have a bilge pump and don't plan on getting one. My transom is full height and I seriously doubt I'll have any transom wash with quick stops. If it becomes a problem I'll deal with it then. Or pull the plug while under way, and let her drain.

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

Ok .... thats what it is going to be .... thanks.

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

Not unless you plan on swamping her!!!
I don't even have a bilge pump and don't plan on getting one. My transom is full height and I seriously doubt I'll have any transom wash with quick stops. If it becomes a problem I'll deal with it then. Or pull the plug while under way, and let her drain.

No bilge pump, doesn't sound like you Woody. Not a good idea in my book. Cheap insurance to me...

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

This is where I am right now.... I am attempting to re-attach the part of the cap that I had cut off in order to get to the transom. I had to do some modifying to the part because my transom seems to have grown this summer and is a bit thicker then it was from the factory.


I tried to think of different ways to cut it to fit and this is my plan which is going to probably make some of you glassers out there cringe. I am going to use a PB mix to attach the cap to the top of the transom and then fill in the gap so that it is even across the top and down the front of the transom.


Then I am going to take some 1708 and attach it about an inch above the black line in this pic and then double it over onto itself and up over the cap to create a straight line on the transom where the cap would have ended.


This is what I am going to attempt to do and I am not sure how it will come out since I am not very good with glass.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

Darn, I wish you would've PM'd me befor you cut her. You could have used a router to cut back the top of the transom to have allowed the cap to slip down over it. But... since your going this route, put PB under the cap so it will ooze out then smooth it in. sand the cap down and then lay the 1708 and then a layer or two of CSM on top then sand and shape. You should be able to make it almost un-noticeable.

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

I thought about doing something along those lines but I didn't want to sand, cut or grind into the transom. I am asking because I don't know but, why 2 layers of CSM? I thought a layer of 1708 would give it some strength. By putting three layers on I think it would be hard to sand it to match the same height as the part of the cap that I am attaching it to.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

You're gunna need more layers than you think to get the thickness you want, but maybe I'm looking at it wrong. You will need to have at least one layer of CSM over the 1708 if you don't want the texture of the 1708 showing thru.

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

I put the stringers back in the boat today. I had to cut them because of the bilge box and the slightly thicker transom but they went in without trouble.


The stringers were attached to, and bolted thru, the transom with a bracket that has some sort of shims under it and I have no clue why. I am hoping someone can tell me why they are there, and more importantly, do I need to put them back.

Shims on old transom:


Brackets with shims:

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

I'm bettin the transom was "Pre-Drilled" and they needed the shims to line up the bracket. Since you don't have that problem I see no need for them.

 

[JDA1975]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

only thing I could think of them being useful for is a buffer to absorb some energy of the hull flex, and keep the brackets from breaking. But that's just trying to think of some logical reason to put 2-3 shims between them.

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

When I removed the ends of the cap to get to the transom I cut thru a piece of wood attached to the back of the cap which you can see in the photo.


I know that you can't see it but I glued a piece of Fir to the back of it to join these two parts together again and to strengthen it.


I also tried to install the drain tube. I placed it in from the inside to see how it would fit and the bottom of the flare is hitting where I tabbed the transom in on the bottom. I am going to get the grinder and try to flatten this area out a bit so it fits the way it should. That is my plan unless someone has a better idea. I also thought of just using a piece of PVC pipe.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

Jon,

If you plan on having you drain tube plug on the inside you'll need a flat surface. I think I'd probably make the attempt.
Your work on the cap looks good.

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

Just a quick update ..... sanded the top of the boat and put two coats of primer on most of it. I am still working on the cap back at the transom so didn't paint there. I was able to grind the area around the drain tube and now it fits perfectly hope to get it installed on Monday. I will post more pics soon.

 

[oops!]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

john.....wished i would have looked at this earlier....

what are your clearance for the motor hooks.....is the new transom going to be too thick?.....you are over 2 1/4. there (i think) and is that epoxy?

you might have to do some grinding on your new transom.......but if you have to do it......dont worry.....it looks like you are plenty strong.


as far as the knees and shims.....most knees are set at 90 degrees...like an l bracket......but a transom must be at 110 deg.....so shims were the logical choice for the builders

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

oops! .... I did notice that the angles for the stringers were not at 90 deg and I must have done something right because the new transom is at the exact same angle so the brackets fit perfectly.


And for the hooks on the motor, I don't know what the clearance is yet because I have the motor tucked away and I can't get to it right now but I am going to try and get in there 2 moro and measure it.

As for the transom I used poly resin on everything so there is no epoxy. The thickness at the top is right at 2" and just a hair over at the drain tube.

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

Started laying out a template for the sole. I am going to put a sheet of ply on the bottom and then close in the sides with some ply attached to the rail above the ribs and then PL the bottom where it touches the sole. From there I don't know what I am going to do. The final finish is going to be vinyl.

 

[*EdC*]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

Started laying out a template for the sole. I am going to put a sheet of ply on the bottom and then close in the sides with some ply attached to the rail above the ribs and then PL the bottom where it touches the sole. From there I don't know what I am going to do. The final finish is going to be vinyl.
View attachment 121333

Looking good there Bud!
Have you thought of making the sole removable...'just in case'?

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: Need help with transom repair w/pics

It's funny that you say that 'cause I have been tossing the idea back and forth for a while now. I like the idea of having the sole closed in so I don't drop things between the ribs and more importantly I don't have any critters crawling under there and making a home only to surface when I am out in the middle of the lake.


I also like the idea of having the sole open all around and removable so air can flow to dry thing out and to be able to clean under it at the end of the season. I guess I am still undecided.