Old ford 302 no spark

nola mike

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You'll have to be a bit more specific, but the wire from the choke to the coil should be a resistor wire that will get hot. You'll get less than 12v to the coil exterior when cranking. Looks like a tan wire from the solenoid supplies the full 12v only when cranking. The wiring looks a bit different than the typical gm wiring, so can't comment on the ignition switch (though you should have 12v there). You should also have 12v at the choke itself.
 

Jakem

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It's a ford. The one odd thing is at the solinoid. I have never had a problem with turning engine over from the key. Now unless I have a ground wire to the soliniod the key won't work. Having that ground kills the power to the coil. Even if I jump it to turn it over there is no spark from coil. Even though it is new. All this started when I put my rebuilt alt in and hooked the exciter wire to negative briefly.
 

kenny nunez

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Take a look at the wire diagram that AD posted. You will see that the solenoid for a Ford engine uses a grounded base solenoid. All other solenoids used are usually non grounded base and use one of the small terminals usually marked “I” which can be confusing. If you used a non grounded base solenoid that can cause a problem with a Ford that uses the “I” terminal as the “by pass” circuit. The best way before you install a solenoid is to test it with some jumper wires and a test light or volt meter on the battery if you are not sure how it is grounded.
 

Jakem

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This is what I bought....is it right or should I get one for ford specific
 

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Jakem

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I have removed all the electrical tape and have found the resistor wire at its loop. We're do I get a new one or s it special wire
 

kenny nunez

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That is the wrong type. It would be correct for the trim pump however.
65057 A1 MM#. 18-5802 Sierra # is the grounded base type you need.
You can get a replacement resistor wire at a NAPA store. Measure the length of the wire. Also NAPA has the marine type solenoid you need I have purchased them there In the past. They can cross it over with the MM#.
 

alldodge

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Resistance equals heat, heat equals a bad connection.

No way a test light will show full voltage
 

kenny nunez

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A test light and a multi meter are 2 of the best tools for diagnosing electrical problems with your boat along with some various length jumper wires also a remote starter button kit.
 

Jakem

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I have replaced solinoid with the serial you.mentioned. replaced terminal ends..took alt and coils to auto electric shop...all turn out great shape. I now have keyed ignition but still no spark from coil wire. Does this resistor wire affect starting or spark from coil as that's the only thing that isn't new
 

nola mike

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Not starting, but it supplies the voltage to the coil when key on/running
 

Jakem

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Ok I'll replace it...so what's left if there's no spark.
 

nola mike

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Did you take note of @kenny nunez post? It looks like you got a non-grounded solenoid. Guessing it isn't wired correctly, as it won't work right if you wired it according to the diagram. How do you have it wired?
 

Jakem

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I.bought the one he suggested. It's wired from left to right...battery...start....ignition...starter
 

Jakem

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The cable is ground not power...just wrong color...soliniod from right to left...batt....start...ignition....starter
 

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nola mike

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I think you mean left to right ... What ground cable? Shouldn't be one off the solenoid. And can't tell from the pics but there should only be one red wire, on the battery side of the solenoid. And what are those black wires on the starter?
 
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Jakem

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Yes sorry from left to.right....the red or orange wire going to that stud is ground not power... left big terminal is batt...small ones are start...and ign. And then to starter...that's how it's always been wired since I bought it...these problems are new
 

Jakem

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The big orange wire comes fe ground side of battery....the cable is wrong color
 
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