Old ford 302 no spark

Jakem

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I know somewere in my messages there was discussion of which petronix igniter I need for a mercury marine distributer but I cannot find it. Anyone know wich I should use
 

Jakem

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Right....I'm going to change the springs and I'm also thinking of pulling damper as well and getting a new one...pulling distributer and resetting it so the actual marks aren't on the bottom when it's tdc
 

alldodge

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Must like spending money
Why get new springs if you don't know if the dizzy is advancing or not. If it is then how much

No need for new damper but could use some $5 timing tape while you figure out what is and is not working
 

Jakem

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One of the old springs looks like it is to big and when I move weights by hand it doesn't seem to really have any spring back...at least to me..but your right I will check for advance before I start switching things out
 

Jakem

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Alright...dwell is set and is about 27 at idle of 800 ram roughly...set points at 17....timing is set between 7 and 8 degrees. When I Rev it up to 3000 ish timing advances to about 28 to 30...I have no marks with actual numbers but I measured stamped numbers off balancer and made marks as close as I could..
 

alldodge

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20 to 22 degrees advance seems good enough
Most balancers if they slip its only by a few degrees, for it to be 180 out I wonder if the motor was worked on and the cam was installed 180 out.
 

Jakem

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Well when I first bought it the engine parts looked new such as new frost plugs...intake ends sealant still bright orange and so on...when I did the head gaskets the cylinders were really clean as well as the pistons them selves so I believe it had work for sure
 

alldodge

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Look on the engine block for the casting number. There will be a 4 digit casting code and followed by a 4 digit block code. I'm starting to think the motor might be a 292.

Either that or if it has a plastic timing gear it might have stripped some and moved
 

Jakem

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I will do that...I do know the intake is 289...the gasket set I got was 302...but that's not to say it won't fit others
 

Jakem

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And the plot thickens...
 

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Jakem

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Wide open for best step next....studs look like push in. Threads are all gone off the top.
 

Scott06

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Wide open for best step next....studs look like push in. Threads are all gone off the top.
x 2 on machine shop. Usually something is wrong with valvetrain geometry when this happens. Typical is valve job is done someone may have upgraded to positive seals or higher lift cam and not machined guides down properly, retainer can hit the seal causing bind, valve could be hanging up.

I had a valve job done years ago on a Pontiac 389, machinist installed Teflon seals. For some unknown reason he machined the exhaust valve guides .090" higher than intake. Stock cam with same lift Intake & exhaust was just barley kissing and deforming tops of seals. I go to install a slightly hotter aftermarket cam that by the books should have worked with stock valve train... end up having to go back to o-ring seals on exhaust valves and use shorter retainers on the intake to clear the positive seals. Bottom line you never know what somebody did in previous head work
 

alldodge

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Suggest take the timing cover off also to check those timing marks.

In my teen's I had a 66 Galaxy with a 292 and remember the timing marks being matched side ways. Looked it up and sure enough they are (12 links).

ford 292.jpg
 

kenny nunez

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AD, I had forgotten about the way the “Y” blocks set the timing, however every Ford since that style lines up with the marks @ 12 & 6 o’clock crank to cam.
The Ford “Modular” OHC engines are a whole new game.
 

Jakem

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I will do that...it's coming apart anyways so might as well check it out
 
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