Old ford 302 no spark

Scott Danforth

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I went out to boat and figured I'd give it a quick flash up....2 knocks and then none..only ran for a min...it smelt gassy
Check if your fuel pump diaphragm ruptured
 

Jakem

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It does seam to make more noise then the original that was in there and it doesn't have the 2 diagrams either just brass and one peice
 

Scott06

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It does seam to make more noise then the original that was in there and it doesn't have the 2 diagrams either just brass and one peice
That doesn’t sound like a marine fuel pump , did you get an automotive one
 

Jakem

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I told the parts guy it was for my boat but I guess that doesn't mean that's what I was given. If it is car can that really cause this much headache
 

alldodge

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Using a auto pump is a safety hazard and not allowed by USCG regulations. The marine type has a double diaphragm and a fitting which will feed gas up to the flame arrestor into the carb. There is no other difference between auto and marine otherwise. Could be used for testing but needs to be replaced later

Now if the parts store gave you one which was not designed for the motor it may be pumping at higher pressure and flooding the carb.
 

Jakem

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I will order the one that came off the engine in the first place. It had a sight glass as well wich said if there gas it's broken and replace...that's why I changed it....I will start from scratch with your suggestions
 

Jakem

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I was told today that I need a 3 ohm coil and not the 1.5 for my points setup..any truth to it
 

alldodge

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The coil should be labeled "use with external resistor"
Your motor should have a resistance wire which is connected to the + side of the coil. It will look like a normal purple wire but it has 3 ohm resistance built in. There will also be another wire which comes from the starter to give it full power
 

Jakem

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Is this resister wire same as the one going to choke
 

Jakem

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I spun engine around and piston is at top. Rotor is pointing to number 1 on cap. This is timing mark
 

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Scott Danforth

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I would use a piston stop tool to verify you are indeed on TDC

however it looks like you may need a new harmonic damper (or your piston is not at TDC)

normally to replace that, there is not enough room in front to get a damper puller tool in there. the motor may need to come out.
 

Jakem

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How far should mark be away from pointer. I can't see any degree marks besides the yellow marks
 

alldodge

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It should be dead on it. When a timing light is used, the pointer aligns up with the additional marks on the balancer. There are other marks with numbers. Your looking for 6 or 8* BTDC when running
 

kenny nunez

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Put a small wire wheel on a drill and clean the rust and dirt off the balancer.
There will be ATC and BTC stamped on it with the “0” prominent plus the degree marks. Should be 10, 20, 30 with straight lines between the numbers.
 

Jakem

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I found the stamped numbers on balancer...complete opposite side of were those yellow marks are. The piston is not at the top with the pointer on the zero. It's at bottom or there abouts
 

Jakem

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Here is pic
 

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alldodge

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Need to remember you have a Ford and not a GM. Number 1 cylinder on a Ford is front starboard side

OMC Ford Firing Order.jpg
 
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