View attachment 107414Here is what you need (this is a GLM kit but I'm sure you can get OE stuff at a BRP dealer, or even a Sierra version)...the thrust washer goes on first (big silver on at left) with the TAPER matching the TAPER on the prop shaft, then the prop, then the copper colored spacer at the right, then the nut gets tightened, then the castellated retainer for the prop nut goes on, finally you slide a cotter pin through the opening in the retainer, thru the prop shaft hole and spread the ends.....
History:
Bought it 2 weeks ago from guy on craigslist. First time owning a boat
Took it out, overheated.
Found 2 freeze plugs bown out, end cap on oil cooler poped offThis made me suspicious, right away, the PO let the engine freeze at some point, those freeze plugs (really core plugs) don't pop out for no reason, neither do end caps on oil coolers. Sorry to say but you might need a new block and heads. Do some investigating first. Do the manifolds have cracks, any patching on the bottom of them?
the prop, I have a 15x17 on mine and I get 4500 rpm, and a bit more depending on trim...
Sounds like toast... It's pretty easy to pressure test the block with a air compressor... The HISS is where the crack is... I had to do it on my rig.. Mine turned out to be the exhaust manifolds, but mine also wasn't pumping milky oil out of the valve covers...
You could save yourself some aggravation and start trying to find ya a long block to stick in her.. Looks to be a pretty nice boat.. I like the teak swim platform..
The loss of the core plugs has me suspicious that the engine may have gave up the ghost..
GOOD LUCK
I wouldn't worry too much about speed at this point. BUT. 1 the boat speedo is almost always not accurate.. My rig will say 35.. The GPS says 45..
2 Someone may also have the tach on the wrong setting..
How big of a boat is it?? If it is a big barge don't expect it to be a speed demon.. I find 45 MPH in my 17ft to be flying...
Fix the oil issue first.. Hope you got her for cheap...
This made me suspicious, right away, the PO let the engine freeze at some point, those freeze plugs (really core plugs) don't pop out for no reason, neither do end caps on oil coolers. Sorry to say but you might need a new block and heads. Do some investigating first. Do the manifolds have cracks, any patching on the bottom of them?
the prop, I have a 15x17 on mine and I get 4500 rpm, and a bit more depending on trim...
Anyone know where I can find instructions on doing a pressure test to try to find my leak/crack before I start pulling stuff off the engine?
It's pretty simple.
Drop on over to Home Depot or your other favorite plumbing supply center and get some fittings and hose.
You'll be isolating the block and heads. (which means DO NOT remove the heads, water (circulating) pump t-stat housing etc)
Get a compressor and enough hose to pressure up the block & heads. Use whatever fittings, a valve, a 0-30 psi gage hose etc to pump the block full of air. close the valve, turn off the compressor and see of it holds air by observing the gage.
If there's no cracks, (or other leaks), you should be able to pump the block up to about 15 PSI or so and it should hold it more or less indefinitely.
Thanks randy. Going to do tonight. Will post results. Going to test cylindarFind the hose that goes from the heat exchanger on the back of the block to the t-stat housing. Disconnect it at the exchanger and install your fitting that you will make up to hook it to the compressor. As for the bat wings, disconnect one side at the manifold. disconnect the other side at the t-stat housing. Now take the hose you removed from the manifold and connect it to the t-stat housing. Essentially making a loop from the two t-stat fittings. When you pressurize it, be carefull so you dont fill it to quick.
The order of assembly i used is,
Barbed adapter x pipe thread to a T with a guage on it to a 1/4 turn ball valve to a compressor fitting.
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg284/randy0048/2011-08-15_16-04-29_14.jpg
This picture is what it should look like.
That's not going to make much difference, but is always good to know if it turns out not to be cracked... Taking the exhaust manifolds off may help you find the crack.. May not.. Good luck.. Does your boat even have a heat exchanger?? if not.. Introduce your air to the larger hose coming from the rear that comes off the power steering cooler.. Plug the ones that run to the exaust manifolds or connect them together.. Make sure you got everything tight..It will leak the air at your fittings if not..Going to test cylindar
Compression as well.