OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

HCMQA

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

That is a very strange looking nut on that prop. Can you post a pic of it head on?

Good luck with your son hope all works out ok. Let us know.
 

Lou C

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

prop nut kit.jpgHere is what you need (this is a GLM kit but I'm sure you can get OE stuff at a BRP dealer, or even a Sierra version)...the thrust washer goes on first (big silver on at left) with the TAPER matching the TAPER on the prop shaft, then the prop, then the copper colored spacer at the right, then the nut gets tightened, then the castellated retainer for the prop nut goes on, finally you slide a cotter pin through the opening in the retainer, thru the prop shaft hole and spread the ends.....
 

jpwdesigns

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

View attachment 107414Here is what you need (this is a GLM kit but I'm sure you can get OE stuff at a BRP dealer, or even a Sierra version)...the thrust washer goes on first (big silver on at left) with the TAPER matching the TAPER on the prop shaft, then the prop, then the copper colored spacer at the right, then the nut gets tightened, then the castellated retainer for the prop nut goes on, finally you slide a cotter pin through the opening in the retainer, thru the prop shaft hole and spread the ends.....

Hi Thanks Lou C. Mine has the Thrust washer, but my spacer looks like some kind of hard black composite material. And rather than the 2 part nut / retainer it just has a single long nut retainer. I'll look for the oem stuff.
 

jpwdesigns

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

I want to thank everyone for their help. We did take it to the lake last night and had sweet success.

A little unorthodox but here's what we did.

I had the impeller outer cover off so i could see the little tube. Backed it into the lake and lowered the outboard so it was fully submerged. Hooked the muffs up and using a drill powered pump forced all the trapped air out of the outboard. Removed muffs, replaced outer cover, started it up and allowed it to get to operating temp. No over heating. Turned off engine waited and started again just to make sure we didn't loose prime. From this point forward everything was normal so we took her out and had a play. Got on plane and everything was fine. No more problems.

Temperature was pegged at 175 the whole time. I suspect that the temp gauge may be off a hair since I know it should be running a little lower than that but the thermostat and both water pumps are brand new so I am hoping its just the gauge / sensor.

Oil pressure gauge was pretty bouncy between 20 and 40. Sound ok?

IMAG0278.jpg


IMAG0275.jpg
 

Lou C

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

Did you leave the clear hose on the raw water intake hose and look for bubbles when on plane?
The temp of 175, could be OK depending on how accurate those gauges are, if I recall from your vid they are the ones common in the late 80s and are kind of hard to read. My temp gauge has 160 in the middle, so mine warms up at 160, when idling through the channel gets to about 165, when planing goes to about 170, and if you come off plane and slow down fast it may go to 175-180 but will cool back down to about 165-170. I'd get an IR temp measuring gun from Radio Shack, they are pretty cheap and a very useful tool for measuring temps esp when you're not sure if your gauges are accurate. For reference, my engine when checked with the IR gun will run at 155-165 at the intake manifold under the thermo housing, the manifolds run from 115 at idle to 135 after running on plane. The bouncing of the oil gauge could be the gauge or a bad sender. My oil pressure runs from 40 cold idle to 20 hot idle, running is 55-65 or so...
 

jpwdesigns

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

Thanks Lou. No I've not done the clear hose on plane yet. I'll investigate that and your other suggestions. Thanks.
 

Joshua Nichols

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

Mine runs 170-175 so you are good there..

Well i am wondering if you had some blockage that worked it's way loose..

Anyway happy you got to do some boating
 

jpwdesigns

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

Had a great 2 days of boating this weekend. End of day today the engine noise changed a little....opened up the engine box and found milkshake had been coming out the valve cover vents. Cracked block? Please say maybe no....

by the way, couldn't get it over about 3400 rpm at about 30 mph. Has a 13 3/4 inch prop at 21 pitch.
 

Lou C

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

History:
Bought it 2 weeks ago from guy on craigslist. First time owning a boat
Took it out, overheated.
Found 2 freeze plugs bown out, end cap on oil cooler poped off
This made me suspicious, right away, the PO let the engine freeze at some point, those freeze plugs (really core plugs) don't pop out for no reason, neither do end caps on oil coolers. Sorry to say but you might need a new block and heads. Do some investigating first. Do the manifolds have cracks, any patching on the bottom of them?
the prop, I have a 15x17 on mine and I get 4500 rpm, and a bit more depending on trim...
 

Joshua Nichols

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

Sounds like toast... It's pretty easy to pressure test the block with a air compressor... The HISS is where the crack is... I had to do it on my rig.. Mine turned out to be the exhaust manifolds, but mine also wasn't pumping milky oil out of the valve covers...

You could save yourself some aggravation and start trying to find ya a long block to stick in her.. Looks to be a pretty nice boat.. I like the teak swim platform..

The loss of the core plugs has me suspicious that the engine may have gave up the ghost..

GOOD LUCK

I wouldn't worry too much about speed at this point. BUT. 1 the boat speedo is almost always not accurate.. My rig will say 35.. The GPS says 45..

2 Someone may also have the tach on the wrong setting..

How big of a boat is it?? If it is a big barge don't expect it to be a speed demon.. I find 45 MPH in my 17ft to be flying...


Fix the oil issue first.. Hope you got her for cheap...
 

jpwdesigns

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

Sounds like toast... It's pretty easy to pressure test the block with a air compressor... The HISS is where the crack is... I had to do it on my rig.. Mine turned out to be the exhaust manifolds, but mine also wasn't pumping milky oil out of the valve covers...

You could save yourself some aggravation and start trying to find ya a long block to stick in her.. Looks to be a pretty nice boat.. I like the teak swim platform..

The loss of the core plugs has me suspicious that the engine may have gave up the ghost..

GOOD LUCK

I wouldn't worry too much about speed at this point. BUT. 1 the boat speedo is almost always not accurate.. My rig will say 35.. The GPS says 45..

2 Someone may also have the tach on the wrong setting..

How big of a boat is it?? If it is a big barge don't expect it to be a speed demon.. I find 45 MPH in my 17ft to be flying...


Fix the oil issue first.. Hope you got her for cheap...

I got it for $2050 trailer incl.. its a 20 ft, open bow aluminum hull starcraft. little bit of rot here and there under a seat cushion or in the floor board in a spot or two but still very usable. I wasn't looking for a pretty boat but a tool for a good time with friends and fam. So far it's been that. I think it is still a good deal if i can swap the block from a junkyard or something. Will investigate now how to do the pressure test. any reason to also check compression on the cylinders also or does it not really matter at this point?
 

jpwdesigns

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

This made me suspicious, right away, the PO let the engine freeze at some point, those freeze plugs (really core plugs) don't pop out for no reason, neither do end caps on oil coolers. Sorry to say but you might need a new block and heads. Do some investigating first. Do the manifolds have cracks, any patching on the bottom of them?
the prop, I have a 15x17 on mine and I get 4500 rpm, and a bit more depending on trim...


Yeah i kept seeing thread like "those freeze plugs aren't there to protect anything...." and thought some bad words....
How can i check to see if the bolt on's like heads, manifolds etc.... are still ok?
 

jpwdesigns

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

Anyone know where I can find instructions on doing a pressure test to try to find my leak/crack before I start pulling stuff off the engine?
 

HT32BSX115

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

Anyone know where I can find instructions on doing a pressure test to try to find my leak/crack before I start pulling stuff off the engine?


It's pretty simple.

Drop on over to Home Depot or your other favorite plumbing supply center and get some fittings and hose.

You'll be isolating the block and heads. (which means DO NOT remove the heads, water (circulating) pump t-stat housing etc)

Get a compressor and enough hose to pressure up the block & heads. Use whatever fittings, a valve, a 0-30 psi gage hose etc to pump the block full of air. close the valve, turn off the compressor and see of it holds air by observing the gage.

If there's no cracks, (or other leaks), you should be able to pump the block up to about 15 PSI or so and it should hold it more or less indefinitely.
 

jpwdesigns

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

It's pretty simple.

Drop on over to Home Depot or your other favorite plumbing supply center and get some fittings and hose.

You'll be isolating the block and heads. (which means DO NOT remove the heads, water (circulating) pump t-stat housing etc)

Get a compressor and enough hose to pressure up the block & heads. Use whatever fittings, a valve, a 0-30 psi gage hose etc to pump the block full of air. close the valve, turn off the compressor and see of it holds air by observing the gage.

If there's no cracks, (or other leaks), you should be able to pump the block up to about 15 PSI or so and it should hold it more or less indefinitely.

sorry for my thick head but what exactly am I connecting the compressor hose to? I'm guessing the intake port on thermostat housing? then what do I block off, the thermostat hose ports that go to the bat wings?
 

Idlespeedonly

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

Find the hose that goes from the heat exchanger on the back of the block to the t-stat housing. Disconnect it at the exchanger and install your fitting that you will make up to hook it to the compressor. As for the bat wings, disconnect one side at the manifold. disconnect the other side at the t-stat housing. Now take the hose you removed from the manifold and connect it to the t-stat housing. Essentially making a loop from the two t-stat fittings. When you pressurize it, be carefull so you dont fill it to quick.

The order of assembly i used is,

Barbed adapter x pipe thread to a T with a guage on it to a 1/4 turn ball valve to a compressor fitting.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg284/randy0048/2011-08-15_16-04-29_14.jpg
This picture is what it should look like.
 

jpwdesigns

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

Find the hose that goes from the heat exchanger on the back of the block to the t-stat housing. Disconnect it at the exchanger and install your fitting that you will make up to hook it to the compressor. As for the bat wings, disconnect one side at the manifold. disconnect the other side at the t-stat housing. Now take the hose you removed from the manifold and connect it to the t-stat housing. Essentially making a loop from the two t-stat fittings. When you pressurize it, be carefull so you dont fill it to quick.

The order of assembly i used is,

Barbed adapter x pipe thread to a T with a guage on it to a 1/4 turn ball valve to a compressor fitting.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg284/randy0048/2011-08-15_16-04-29_14.jpg
This picture is what it should look like.
Thanks randy. Going to do tonight. Will post results. Going to test cylindar
Compression as well.
 

Joshua Nichols

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

Going to test cylindar
Compression as well.
That's not going to make much difference, but is always good to know if it turns out not to be cracked... Taking the exhaust manifolds off may help you find the crack.. May not.. Good luck.. Does your boat even have a heat exchanger?? if not.. Introduce your air to the larger hose coming from the rear that comes off the power steering cooler.. Plug the ones that run to the exaust manifolds or connect them together.. Make sure you got everything tight..It will leak the air at your fittings if not..

BTW the starcraft guys would love to have that rig.. You spent a lot on a unproven boat but too late to go there.. It's worth a fix... Fresh water boat?
 

jpwdesigns

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

Ok Just did compression check and the cooling system pressure check.

Not sure the cylinder order but starting at port bow working back and then starboard bow working back: 180 180 170 170 165 170. That's pretty good if the block's not cracked...

Pressure test, the air leak is coming from both valve cover vent hoses equally. No other signs of leakage elsewhere. I could hear the hiss coming from the vent hoses and when i plugged the hoses with my thumbs pressure built up and puffed out when i removed my thumb on one or the other side.

Question, is it possible that I didn't do a good job of putting the sealer on the bolts that went in the thermostat housing when I put the new thermostat on and now water is moving from the ex-changer beneath the intake manifold? Something simple as that? I know i didn't put much sealer on cause i didn't understand at the time what that was all about.

For me to see where the leak is coming from I'm assuming i now need to pull the valve covers and examine, which means i probably need to pull the exhaust manifold "bat wings" cause they kinda are in the way of getting the valve covers off.

Also don't know if it matters but i opened the drain port on the bottom of the engine block to let the water drain so I could see if there was any milkshake in there and it was only water.

Thanks everyone for your feedback!
 

bruceb58

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Re: OMC 4.3L Overheating. Read all the other threads already....

The fact that you heard the hiss from the vent hose confirms you have a crack from the water jacket internal to the engine.

Sorry about that! Time to look for a new block.
 
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