Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

[Mark42]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

Yep, I'll take some pictures and post here. Also have to update the project on Shareaproject.com.

 

[zach103]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

what made you wanna do this mark?

 

[Mark42]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

what made you wanna do this mark?

I wanted to be able to go out in cooler and windy weather with a top that would not flap in the breeze. I thought the foam would let me make a fiberglass top that had lines that would be in keeping with this models lines. I could have made a top from 1/4" ply and poly/glass, but it wouldn't have that molded look with smooth rounded corners and edges. Thats why I went with the foam. After the top is done, I plan on sewing up a camper back for those fall outings, and during the summer, we can sleep in the boat with the kids just for fun and the top will keep the bugs and rain out.

For fair weather crusing, the top will cut the wind and sun, and that will let me take the family on longer trips with less fatigue from wind buffeting.

I always liked the small "pocket cruisers" that were popular in the 60's. Seeing as no manufacturers make them anymore, I had to make my own.

 

[zach103]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

Fair enough.. i remember seeing that you wanted to make it removable. that ply would seem way to heavy. good call with the foam

 

[Mark42]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

The door to the cuddy is 5/8 press board with vinyl wood grain face and aluminum trim. It is heavy, and I don't really need a door on the cuddy, so it will go. Probably save 10 lbs. Same with the bulkhead under the dash. It's just bolted in place and doesn't provide any support except to hold up the dash. That can be removed and a simple post used to support the dash. A diagonal brace can be added to provide some rigidity.

Hopefully removing parts I don't need will offset the weight of the top and accessories like a big fuel tank.

And if I replace the old Force 85hp with a Yamaha 90hp, that will save 100 lbs !!!!! And I get power tilt and trim!!! Who hoo!

 

[jonesg]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

I keep popping by to look for new pics ....

 

[Mark42]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

Ok, I did some sanding on the top today. Just the basic first pass to remove all the loose sharp ends, high spots, etc.

Section of the ceiling that is covered with 6oz. Just did it to save weight. It looks a little blotchy, but its just on the surface, not air underneath. Although there are a few small air bubbles in there if you look close enough.

Here it is after the initial sanding with the little 5" disk using 40 grit. That 2x4 that the rear its resting on is WARPED, it's not bending under the weight of the top. LOL!

Close shot of starboard corner where there are a few overlapping sections of 1708. Smoothed over rough sections of overlapping pieces so that the fairing will go on smoother.

The 5" disk sander on a drill won't get in the corners, so I will have to wait to get the 7" sander to work the corners nice. Some areas will need some mat formed into the corners and sanding again.

Problem area!!!! The wood strip at the base is wrapped in a 6" wide piece of 6oz glass. After the anime blush was washed off, it looks like there is not enough resin on the top of the cloth. The cloth has resin under and inside, but the top side is looking a little dry. Will have to brush on a coat of epoxy to seal it well. Its like the resin drained rut before it set up.

This is a closeup of the 1708 biax on the side. The weave in the glass can be felt at the surface. I think rolling on a layer of epoxy will smooth it over so sanding will not expose the glass. Or should I just apply fairing over it as is?

 

[Mark42]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

Here is a photo of where the diagonal brace meets the roof bow support. Also, the rear section of the roof is covered with 1708, where the section forward of the brace is covered in 6oz. Although I intended to do the inside in 6oz to save weight, I ended up doing most of it in 1708.

And now the big problem. I weighed the top using a bathroom scale. It weighs a wopping 63 lbs. Thats a lot more than I wanted it to. I havent had to pick it up since I turned it upside down to glass the interior. Apparently it gained some weight having the inside glassed over too. I hope this is not going to be a problem for the little 16' Bayliner. The factory glass I remove to put the top on should be a wash with the glass I add to the top, so I will assume the total net gain will be about 70-80 lbs with fairing, glass and paint.

There are nearly 4 gallons of epoxy on the top, about 35lbs or so, plus 20 sq yds of 1708, about 15lbs or so, plus the foam and wood pieces. I guess it all adds up.

 

[zach103]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

Very nice

 

[Mark42]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

Very nice

Thanks! BTW, if you take the shareaproject link in my signature, you can see the pictures in much larger format if you wanted to see some detail.

 

[oops!]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

by the time you are done....it could be as much as 90 -100 lbs mark....but dont worry....thats the weight of just one kid....if its a problem...you can compensate with a smaller prop....so no biggie.....

everything in a boat is a trade off......everything....beer and cooler = weight= less speed.

but it looks like you are doin a good job.....

if you grind/sand the main strands of the 1708...(that like to stick up after the resin is cured)....you will weaken the glass....but you are using epoxy with a bi ax cloth = really strong......
if you leave the fabric threads.....you will be adding more fairing compound= weight.....theres the trade off again.

so its your call on that one bud....i would not be afarid of sanding it off tho.

heck ...you are using epoxy...ill bet you can all ready hit it with a hammer and not hurt it.

as far as the problem areas and sanding nyou might have to finger fiddle it..(yuk)

and check out the big makita i posted on the hull thread...its a really really valueable tool....i think you are gonna need one soon for the fairing....they are cheap at harbour freight......for sanding....make sure you get a thick foam pad.

keep it up bud....yer doin good

cheers
oops

 

[Mark42]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

Why the thick foam pad? I usually use the rubber disk for sanding, and foam pad for polishing. What grit sand paper do you use with the foam pad? Are they hook and loop sanding disks or the screw center?

Oh, and I used my jumpsuit with elastic sleves and pant legs and hood, also wore the respirator and gloves. What a pleasure it was to sand and just strip off, wash my face and be clean and itch free. Wish they had this stuff available back in the 70's when I did this stuff on cars and used to itch for days.....

 

[oops!]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

when the fairing compound is on.....the edge of the disc will leave a minor edge and if the sander is not flat you will dig a groove in it in a second.

the thick foam pad will eliminate both problems....on the harbour freight tool i suggested...i use hook and loop with no hole in the paper......you are going to use an epoxy farring compound....so im not sure how hard it really is....on a poly based compound 80 grit for ripping....220 for finish.

you might be as low as a 60 grit for ripping.and a 100 for finishing.
ill get pics of the pad and paper for you....but the foam pad is cats meow for finishing

 

[Mark42]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

when the fairing compound is on.....the edge of the disc will leave a minor edge and if the sander is not flat you will dig a groove in it in a second.

the thick foam pad will eliminate both problems....on the harbour freight tool i suggested...i use hook and loop with no hole in the paper......you are going to use an epoxy farring compound....so im not sure how hard it really is....on a poly based compound 80 grit for ripping....220 for finish.

you might be as low as a 60 grit for ripping.and a 100 for finishing.
ill get pics of the pad and paper for you....but the foam pad is cats meow for finishing

This is what I'm ordering...

Versatile 300-3000 RPM range for polishing and sanding
All ball bearing construction for smooth operation
Universal 5/8''-11TPI spindle
Spindle lock for easy pad changes
Aluminum die cast handle for extra rigidity
High impact PVC housing

Comes with 7'' hook and loop backing pad, foam pad, 60 and 240 grit sanding discs, terry towel, polishing bonnet; 120V motor, 60 Hz, 9.8 amps



ITEM 92623-9VGA

Its 49.95, but if you order from the printed catalog, its 39.95.

I'm adding this rubber disk...

So now I'll have two polisher/sanders. One with probably a metric arbor, and this one with the standard 5/8"x11tpi arbor.

Should do the trick.

 

[jcsercsa]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

hay mark thats not to bad of a price , how much is shipping ?

The top looks great !!! 80 to 100 lbs not to bad!! how are you going to mount the windows ??John

 

[i386]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

I have the $40 Ryobi 5" RA sander. 80 grit cuts through the epoxy fairing stuff I mix up pretty well. Then I switch to 220 to finish it off. Even with this small cheap sander it works well. I would definitely want something larger if I was sanding a large area like you are though. What I have is working great to sand out spots on my hull.

I can't praise the surform tool enough though. It knocks down the epoxy easily. I use that to remove high spots or thick material. Then I switch to 80 grit, then 220. I don't worry about getting too much in one spot because the surform will take it down quite easily.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

hay mark thats not to bad of a price , how much is shipping ?

The top looks great !!! 80 to 100 lbs not to bad!! how are you going to mount the windows ??John

Shipping is $9.00 flat rate. The trick to keeping these cheap tools alive is to not overheat them. Give them a rest after 15 minutes of heavy use so you don't melt down the motors. The polisher I have did a good job and still runs fine after doing the MFG. But it is one noisy gear box.

The side windows go on using the marine plastic sliding window trim. It will be supported all around by plastic trim. The front windows will be set in windshield adhesive with plastic T trim molding. I have to bolt in aluminum L bracket around the window opening so the window has something to rest on.

 

[turborich]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

Harbor freight has that same exact sander/polisher on the shelf were I live, It's $30 bucks. I have went through two of them so far. If you get aggressive with it something starts to smell like it's burning & shortly after it will stop. At least on my first 2 that's what happened. I'm on my 3rd now & it's good so far.
Just so you know, I used the first 2 for burning off the clear coat off of a set of wheels with another type of wheel & polishing rouge. I don't think it was designed for this type of abuse!

Harbor freight is my favorite store!

 

[Mark42]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

Harbor freight has that same exact sander/polisher on the shelf were I live, It's $30 bucks. I have went through two of them so far. .......

I was wondering if the gear box in front is plastic or metal. It doesn't specify that its metal, and it does say "High impact PVC housing " . What is your made from?

 

[jcsercsa]

Re: Project "1600 Capri Hard Top" has begun!

Shipping is $9.00 flat rate. The trick to keeping these cheap tools alive is to not overheat them. Give them a rest after 15 minutes of heavy use so you don't melt down the motors. The polisher I have did a good job and still runs fine after doing the MFG. But it is one noisy gear box.

The side windows go on using the marine plastic sliding window trim. It will be supported all around by plastic trim. The front windows will be set in windshield adhesive with plastic T trim molding. I have to bolt in aluminum L bracket around the window opening so the window has something to rest on.

Yep i agree about not over heating them !! The one i just burned up was 7 or 8 year old craftsman Its been pertty good to me , i didnt pull it apart yet , but i think i just burned out the brushes on it ?? dont know if i can get new , but for 60 bucks or so think i will just get a new one !!

make sure you post some pics when you mount the windows !!!

How low is the sterring wheel going to be ?John