Still don't have my boat back

msojjo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
176
So i recieved a call on friday afternoon from the marina who has my boat for over a month now, and said they have the parts in that they said it needed, for thoes of you who have followed the threads you know what i'm talking about and what i'm dealing with. So i get a call, and i'm told they are going to take it to the lake and do a water test. That didn't go so well, still not running right, one minute it's going on plane, next there is no power, and they have no clue. Saturday they had another mechanic come in from another marina to look at it. He said it could be a bad long block that was just put in. Did a compression check and that checked out good. I was told that a tech from mercury marine was coming in to take a look today. The fuel system has been checked, and new fuel regulator was put in, a few new injectors have been put in, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, throttle body opens all of the way. Do the computers go out on them, and work intermitantly? I've had so much more done to this thing, water pump, starter, powersteering components, engine coupler, new belts, powersteering cooler i think that i about have everything covered in that engine compartment.
 

sasto

Captain
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
3,918
Re: Still don't have my boat back

I've seen a duel battery system wired up incorrectly where the computer was dedicated to a battery that wasn't in the charging system. They need 12 volts to operate correctly, anything less has a tendency to do as your motor is doing. Was on a boat one time with your symptoms, throttle was set at half, boat moving slowly, I switched to both batteries and she took off like a rocket. Scared the heck out of me.....I hope you get your boat back soon.
 

msojjo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
176
Re: Still don't have my boat back

I'll have to look up a diagram and see how it should be hooked up, or do you know off hand.
 

sasto

Captain
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
3,918
Re: Still don't have my boat back

We ran the computer off the common on the battery switch, then the computer ran off of whatever battery/batteries the switch was selected to. Example of the incorrect wiring was: computer was running off battery #1, the engine running and charging battery #2. Battery #1 fell below 12 volts, the computer would run the engine at idle but with a load on her she wouldn't do anything above idle. After paralleling the batteries the computer got the 12 she needed.
 

dsiekman

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 7, 2010
Messages
798
Re: Still don't have my boat back

A guy I work with did a complete refit of a classic ChrisCraft. He had a new injected Merc 5.7 BI put in. It ran okay for the first few hours and then he started having issues. Rough idle, didn't want to plane out, etc. The Merc tech was out several times and never could get things right. Finally, at the end of the summer, Merc agreed to replace the whole thing - block, drive, computer, all of it. Now she runs great. Who knows. Hope you get things straight.
 

msojjo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
176
Re: Still don't have my boat back

Talked to the dealer, and they didn't move, or take out the batteries. I know there in paralell, and i know that i have full power on both batteries, when it was running i would use one battery one day and use the other the next and i didn't have a problem with one discharging, or not having enough juice. I called the dealer, and they told me they had three clogged injectors that they are going to replace and try. So it was running on 5 cylinders.
 

45Auto

Commander
Joined
May 31, 2002
Messages
2,842
Re: Still don't have my boat back

It would be a real good idea to fix whatever caused the injectors to get clogged (corroded tank, bad hoses, dirty fuel, etc, etc).
 

msojjo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
176
Re: Still don't have my boat back

I know that i have a plastic tank, so there should be no rust. But i'm guessing when the pulled the motor 3 times they have to disconnect the fuel at some point, could that be where i'm getting my contamination. I just had the fuel pressure regulator replaced and was told that was rusty, so that could be another posibility of where i have my contamination. How is this getting past the fuel filters?
 

Stachi

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 14, 2009
Messages
1,671
Re: Still don't have my boat back

I know that i have a plastic tank, so there should be no rust. But i'm guessing when the pulled the motor 3 times they have to disconnect the fuel at some point, could that be where i'm getting my contamination. I just had the fuel pressure regulator replaced and was told that was rusty, so that could be another posibility of where i have my contamination. How is this getting past the fuel filters?

The filters are before the pressure regulator and injectors.
 

msojjo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
176
Re: Still don't have my boat back

ok, so i guess i know where my contamination came from.
 

msojjo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
176
Re: Still don't have my boat back

Well i was able to pick up my boat this past weekend, but just didn't have time to get it onto the water and see how the thing ran. I was told they did a water test and it did run out nice. The final fix for the thing was to replace all of the injectors with a fuel line cleaning, along with the fuel pressure regulator, for the regulator it is noted that i had 19 psi and it should be 28 to 30. He charged me 79.50 for each injector, which is his cost plus plugs at no cost and a set of wires that i was charged for. Total for that bill was 750 bucks, no charge for labor even though he said they logged over 10 hours of labor. the Fuel pressure regulator was 120 plus 635 for labor of putting the regulator in. they had to remove the exhaust manifold to get at the part which we found were leaking internally gave me 10 percent discount on the manifolds and no charge for labor, because he said they should have gotten this on the first time. So 2 manifolds for 570 and 24 for gaskets, which they should have ate, but it's 24 bucks. So that bill was for just over 1400, then at my request i had them put in a new starter which was 220 for the part 150 for labor, plus a new belt that i don't see on the bill, better check that.
 

Fireman431

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 17, 2007
Messages
4,292
Re: Still don't have my boat back

Total for that bill was 750 bucks, no charge for labor even though he said they logged over 10 hours of labor.
10 hours for labor on 8 injectors? I've changed injectors before and I'd be surprised if I had 20 minutes in each one.

the Fuel pressure regulator was 120 plus 635 for labor of putting the regulator in.
Let's assume $75.00 per hour for labor. I don't think it would take my wife 8.5 hours to install that.

So 2 manifolds for 570 and 24 for gaskets, which they should have ate, but it's 24 bucks.
Sounds reasonable

then at my request i had them put in a new starter which was 220 for the part 150 for labor
Learn to do some mechanical work on your own and you will save you a ton. A starter is 2 wires and 2 bolts. They charged you 2 hours labor when you could replace that in less than 15 minutes.

I hope your boat now runs perfect, but...as a personal note...I'm suggesting you find a more reputable mechanic.
 

security6

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 21, 2008
Messages
191
Re: Still don't have my boat back

at my request i had them put in a new starter which was 220 for the part 150 for labor, plus a new belt that i don't see on the bill, better check that.

Was the starter a Mercruiser (or Volvo) branded starter? If not, you overpaid on the part. I got a brand new aftermarket starter for my Volvo 5.7 (starter should be the same for a Mercruiser 5.7) for $60. I put it in myself, and it took me about 2 hours. A lot of the 2 hours was spent researching online to figure out why my socket wouldn't fit on one of the bolts (a thin wall socket, or a hammer is required).

I see you're in Wisconsin, as am I. In researching winterizing prices, I've found that the big shops charge quite a bit more than smaller shops. For example, a big shop charges $600 and change for winterization with a drive pull. A smaller shop does the same for just over $300. IMHO, the big shop rates are absurd. A big dealer here (where I bought my boat actually) charges $125/hr for shop time. That's more than a good BMW mechanic charges (a good shop is $90/hr). If you have been using a big shop, you might try looking around for a smaller place.
 

avenger79

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 5, 2008
Messages
1,792
Re: Still don't have my boat back

msojjo I sure hope your next post is how much you absolutely love that boat and how well it runs.

security -- ok now I have a new question, my boat is OB so I know nothing of the i/o but why do they have to pull the drive to winterize?
 

msojjo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
176
Re: Still don't have my boat back

10 hours for labor on 8 injectors? I've changed injectors before and I'd be surprised if I had 20 minutes in each one.

Let's assume $75.00 per hour for labor. I don't think it would take my wife 8.5 hours to install that.

Sounds reasonable

Learn to do some mechanical work on your own and you will save you a ton. A starter is 2 wires and 2 bolts. They charged you 2 hours labor when you could replace that in less than 15 minutes.

I hope your boat now runs perfect, but...as a personal note...I'm suggesting you find a more reputable mechanic.


They had 10 hours into trying to figure out what the problem was, but i wasn't charged for it, as it should be, because i didn't have this problem when i had the first repairs. When i purchased the boat the previous owner wanted to take it to this shop, and all repairs on the boat have been free until now. The previous owner stuck over 5000 into a new block, dealer stuck almost 1000 into a new power steering system, plus all of the things they stuck into it for free, plus time.
 

msojjo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
176
Re: Still don't have my boat back

Was the starter a Mercruiser (or Volvo) branded starter? If not, you overpaid on the part. I got a brand new aftermarket starter for my Volvo 5.7 (starter should be the same for a Mercruiser 5.7) for $60. I put it in myself, and it took me about 2 hours. A lot of the 2 hours was spent researching online to figure out why my socket wouldn't fit on one of the bolts (a thin wall socket, or a hammer is required).

I see you're in Wisconsin, as am I. In researching winterizing prices, I've found that the big shops charge quite a bit more than smaller shops. For example, a big shop charges $600 and change for winterization with a drive pull. A smaller shop does the same for just over $300. IMHO, the big shop rates are absurd. A big dealer here (where I bought my boat actually) charges $125/hr for shop time. That's more than a good BMW mechanic charges (a good shop is $90/hr). If you have been using a big shop, you might try looking around for a smaller place.

It is a Mercury starter, and i looked at the boat and the position of the starter, and there is no way i really wanted to tackle the problem at this point. They already had the boat torn apart, because the seats and dividers and exhaust manifolds need to come off to get to the bottom side of the motor, so i just had them take care of it while it was in.

You are correct in prices, i live just north of west bend and cedarlake sales charges 600 for a winterization. The shop that i usually go to, which like you said is a smaller shop charges 180, and that includes the oil change fogging cylinders, draining and filling with antifreeze, pulling outdrive, greasing u-joints ect., and replacing outdrive fluid. This is where i usually take my boat in nekoosa, they charge 90 and hour also.
 

msojjo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
176
Re: Still don't have my boat back

msojjo I sure hope your next post is how much you absolutely love that boat and how well it runs.

security -- ok now I have a new question, my boat is OB so I know nothing of the i/o but why do they have to pull the drive to winterize?


Thanks, me too, when it did run before my power steering issue, it was great. I had 7 people on the boat and was pulling up 2 skiers, i thought that was pretty great.


To answer your question, good shops pull the outdrive to grease u-joints, grease bearings and just do a visual check of the inards.
 

msojjo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
176
Re: Still don't have my boat back

I took the boat out onto a small lake around where i live this morning, and all seems fine. The boat started immediatly, with one flick of the key. Idled out of the no wake zone, and boat came out of the water decently, didn't pop out like i quite remember, so i don't know what that's all about. I do think that i need a set of trim tabs on the boat though. With a half tank of gas aprox. 26 gal., and the motor with a bravo 1, there i quite a bit of stern weight.
 

avenger79

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 5, 2008
Messages
1,792
Re: Still don't have my boat back

well hopefully the new motor justs needs a few runs to season and loosen up. essentially it's brand new so I would think it would take a few runs to get it all broke in and running up to snuff.
glad to hear you got to run yet this season. may even get a few more days out of it yet this year.
 

security6

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 21, 2008
Messages
191
Re: Still don't have my boat back

Thanks, me too, when it did run before my power steering issue, it was great. I had 7 people on the boat and was pulling up 2 skiers, i thought that was pretty great.


To answer your question, good shops pull the outdrive to grease u-joints, grease bearings and just do a visual check of the inards.


To expand a little further, a drive pull is not required for winterization. However, it's usually a good time to do the above. If you don't pull your drive for an extended period (years+), then the driveshaft can get stuck on the coupler.
 
Top