Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

[83mulligan]

I did some more thorough investigating of my boat today. Don't like what I found. My transom has wet wood everywhere. It DOES NOT flex when I stand on the outdrive and bounce up and down on it, but it is wet. Also I inspected the starboard stringer closely and it is wet and very punky in areas. It is still pretty solid in most places, but definitely in the process of rotting. There is no flex in the floor, it feels sound, but the damage is there. I need to come up with a game plan. Taking into consideration that:

A) I love the boat and have big plans for a teak deck and interior, rocket launcher and on and on

B) Want to pull the motor and overhaul it next winter

C) Have never mixed resin in my life, but had plans to do some smaller repairs on the boat this spring and the thought of doing the transom and stringers both intrigues me and scares the crap out of me at the same time

D) Know the boat isn't worth and $$$ to anyone else

E) Know that if i do the repairs correctly, the boat will last me for a couple decades at least

I need some good opinions on the level of difficulty for me to replace this transom next winter. The stringers i'm sure i can handle. The transom is kinda scary to me.

Here are some pics. It is a 1973 Slickcraft SS-206

Here is a shot of the transom. I believe, 1 1/2" of ply as shown in the following pic of the exhaust port.

Along the top of the transom

Starboard Stringer in engine well. found crack in fiberglass, wood punky behind crack

Starboard Stringer forward of engine well. It's not near as bad here, though there are some softer spots. You can see where, i'm sure. The port stringer is in excellent shape, though why do one and not the other, right?

Let me know what you guys think. I believe i can tear it off pretty easily without removing the cap (which i have no knowledge of or desire to do). The stringers look rectangular to me, which would be easy to copy, correct?

 

[redfury]

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

You could replace the transom by cutting the back fiberglass skin off and use that as a template. The cap will hold everything in place, and then you can replace the wood from there. Probably would be the easiest way to do it without removing the cap. Then you could do the stringers.

I think the hardest part is making sure the outdrive and engine mounts will align properly when you are done. If you make the outdrive hole to high or low, alignment issues may plague you forever.

The simplest thing to do is to plan, plan, plan the heck out of it, and measure and record every angle and deflection and draw it out before you tear into it so you have something to reference. This is the advantage to replacing a transom on an outboard....you slap it on and drill holes for the bolts. As long as the motor is in the center of the boat, you are pretty much good to go!

Oops! would be the best one to ask about the whole outdrive issue as far as getting confidence to deal with it.

If you love the boat and everything it does for you, I say go for it. It may not be "worth" the repair, but if you hold the boat for the next 20 years, the "worth" will be invested back into yourself, bringing the "worth" back up to at least even.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

thanks for the info. wouldn't the location of the hole still be in the outer skin of the fiberglass? where by you could then just rout it out or something?

 

[drewmitch44]

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Oops! would be the best one to ask about the whole outdrive issue as far as getting confidence to deal with it.

how is that?

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Transoms aren't hard.. just time consuming. Cut it out from the inside, slicing the inner skin with a grinder or other tool, and pull the skin off.

Clean out the old wood, grinding down to clean glass. Glue the new transom in place, and you can re-create the holes after gluing (or before if you like) from the holes in the outer skin.

I'd recommend doing what you need to do to the stringers at the same time. Make sure you take lots of measurements of the motor mounts first... height and position have to be close when you re-install the engine, so you can align it properly. Search threads here for "transom replacement" to get an idea how to proceed, with pictures. It's a very common repair.

The boat isn't going to be worth what you put into it, but you'll know it's in good shape... and you'll have done the work.

If you keep the holes in the outer skin, you can line everything back up pretty well. Review Oops!' thread on hull extension to find out the ins and outs of getting an outdrive re-installed.


Erik

 

[new_boater]

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

You could replace the transom by cutting the back fiberglass skin off and use that as a template. The cap will hold everything in place, and then you can replace the wood from there. Probably would be the easiest way to do it without removing the cap. Then you could do the stringers.

you do not want to cut the outside skin of the boat it is much better to do transom from top or inside.
do a search within this forum and you will be amazed at the amount of info you find.

 

[jcsercsa]

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

HAY

I think thats what Reffury meant,, Really its not that hard , the worst part is getting that hole right !! if you think the stringers arent going to be a problem then you wont have a problem !!

Infact you got it kind of easy you dont have to pull the top !! so thats really good !!

all the guys are right , take a cut off wheel and cut the transom fiberglass off and us the old transom as a template , hust make sure of the hight , under the transom there should be some peanut butter , your just going to have to make that the same height then put the transom on it !! and that should be the worst part !! John

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

thanks a lot for all the advice guys. I'm going to go forward with it. Just not sure when. How many man hours are we talking about for a complete novice to do this? I'm a complete novice. I'll need to replace the transom and at least one stringer. however, since i'm in there and doing all this it seems kinda pointless to not replace the other stringer, so i'll plan on that as well. So, two stringers, transom. What do you think for hours?

Also, since the transom doesn't flex, is it alright to fish with it this summer on the big lake and tear into this in september? I'm thinking its probably been like this for years, stored outside and 300 miles from home. I fish with it every year. It's never slipped, just trailered.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

another question, can i do stringers first, transom second, doing stringers one at a time before i pull the engine??? Thanks in advance.

 

[Utahboatnut]

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

To use it or not only you can decide. A lot has to do with how you will be driving it, speed, water conditions, etc. If you do end up using it make sure at a minimum that the engine mounts are sound/solid. Bad transom is never good but a lot worse with an outboard IMO. My last boat had a transom that was mush and I didn't even realize it till I started reading around on this site 5-6 years ago. It was a 200hp outboard and I was skiing with it, had my family in the boat, I consider myself VERY fortunate that I never had a major accident. I had never done any work like that to a boat before but after MANY hours of reading here and many questions I redid the transom and it was solid as a rock till I sold it and still is to this day. If you do use it be careful and try not to let the back of your mind ruin all of your trips out.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

ok, i'm committed to doing this. I need the help of you people. I've been reading a lot and will continue to do so.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Ok, what should I expect in here? Looks to be a funny pattern of screws. This is where the stringer meets the transom. We just had a real sharp warmup in weather from around zero to mid 50's a couple days ago. The transom sweated a lot, however this are remains dry, same on other side. The transom isn't cut over the stringer here is it?

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

OK, this is what I want to start with to get some practice before the stringers and transom monster project starts. Can someone get me started here? Do I begin by cutting out those rotten mini stringers? It was filled with water due to a leak in the windshield caulking. Do I grind the glass that is damaged on the sides of the well or do i cut it with a wheel halfway up and reglass the whole thing down to the floor? I need some help getting started since I'm a total rookie to this stuff.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

and............what respirator do i want to invest in? What seems to be the most preferred and easiest to find cartridges for? Sorry for all the questions, I'm really new to this and want to do it right.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=186091-429-95090-80000&lpage=none

Is this the one i want to get? There are ones with full face shields too, but much more $$$$. is it worth it to spend the money on the full shield?

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

help please with questions above. particularly the basin area where i'm looking to start this project.

 

[jonesg]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

My mask is similar to that one, works a treat. I use it for dust, smell don't bother me and I work outside anyway.

Its hard to tell from the pic which area of the boat, those stringers probably go further than the pic, I'd want to get the whole thing out, you probably need to commit to pulling more deck to get at the whole thing.
You can cut the top off the stringer glasswork then rip the wood out, the glass channels wil show you where the new ones go. Rough it all up with a grinder, seat the stringer in with construction adhesive and glass over it .

Previously you said the glass was cracking and the wood inside the crack was mush, so thats got to be removed by whatever method you choose.
But its dangerous , a small crack means its giving out on you.
The glasswork cracks because the wood inside is gonzo.

Mine started as a crack in the splashwell glass, near the top motor mount bolt ( outboard) and inspection showed the whole transom was rotted.

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Use whatever mask you can get locally that has cheap filter cartridge replacements. But mostly make sure it fits well and is comfortable, that's what's most important. If it isn't comfortable, you won't wear it.

Those screws aren't factory, they look like someone clueless tried to fix some split glass or rot by sinking in a bunch of metal. This is about a half step above duct tape on the boat repair scale

I'd take a few of them out and see whether they're corroded, whether the wood in the holes is wet, rusty, whatever.

I'd recommend overall you take out the engine. You can work around it for the stringers, but it's easier to not have to, especially in case your engine mounts need work too.

Erik

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

thanks jonesg and erik. The transom is for sure wet and i'm replacing that. I think one stringer is completely sound. The other is wet and cracked. You can see the crack about a third the way up in the pictures. The sequence I'm considering is................

1) Pull the floor on starboard side (damaged stringer side. This will allow me to inspect it further and see what's on the other side of it. I'm hoping not foam, but think it probably is.

2) pull gas tank. Heck, i may make that 1 just for convenience

3) Assess damage after removing starboard flooring.

4) Remove rest of flooring, inspect bulkheads, port stringer

5) Remove rest of flooring

6) pull engine, drive, bell housing

7) Remove damaged starboard stringer

at this point, uncertainty sets in. I have to work off the trailer. I'm leaving the cap on. Is this where i pull the transom, or do i need to replace starboard stringer first?

I'd like to replace the transom first with the starboard stringer out. Or at least partially out (back 3 ft. or so. This would allow me to get the new transom in and out easier.

Am I on the right path? I want to be certain of the order I go in. I have little to no space in my garage, so framing the sides would be really tough. I want to do it as it sits on the trailer with the cap on.

 

[jonesg]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Heres what I did..
I ripped my transom out with an elec chainsaw and removed both stringers with a sawzall, the boat is on the trailer, cap is still on.
Transom is already replaced but stringers are waiting for warmer temps to get glassed back in.

Another good approach is to replace one stringer at a time when the boat is left on the trailer but thats not always possible.

You'r better off pulling the engine and outdrive, get to the bottom of it all and be done with it, its less work in the end. If in doubt..rip it out.

If I had time space and money I would have preferred to pull the cap and gut the whole thing, but I don't. Anyway, its gonna be a LOT better than it was.

Take pics, you'll get more help that way.