1995 Crownline 266BR Restoration

[Michael.bovine]

Well I posted earlier about whether or not to buy this boat and I had come to the conclusion I was going to pass, but I really loved the boat and couldn't stop thinking about it. I know the guy who owns it and have had my eye on it for about 3 years. I decided to make an offer that I was comfortable with and he accepted so here we go. Its a 1995 Crownline 266BR that needs a total interior restoration. The hull is in great shape and I have had it out on the water and it runs very good. It has a mercruiser 7.4 with the Bravo 3. Here's my plan as of now:
Remove interior panels, chairs, hardware, etc...
Pull motor, outdrive, and fuel tank
Gut the entire floor system

I have been reading tons of threads and watching tons of videos from this forum and feel like I am ready to take on this project. The motor mounts and transom seem to be solid from what I can tell with the motor still in place but I am sure that will chance after I get everything out so I am expecting to replace all wood in the boat. If one or the other is in perfect shape than that is a bonus.

I will definitely be posting pics and might take a shot at video. I welcome any and all advise, ideas and encouragement. I am pumped about starting even though I know with 3 kids it is going to be a looooooonnnnnnnnggggggg project. My goal is to have the boat 100% for the 2016 boating season in Louisville, KY. Thanks again for all the future help and advise. I will try posting some pics soon.

 

[52FordF2]

Yes, Another one from Louisville :laugh:. I'm putting down stringer this week. I know no pictures didn't happen. Now where did that gun go. They keep moving it on me.

 

[tpenfield]

I am looking forward to tagging along. Lots of wood in those old Crownies, so you may find some issues to address beneath the deck. One of our Resto veterans (BigDirty) recently restored a Crownie Cruiser (25 footer). Your boat looks like it may be more typical of the bowrider restorations that we see.

 

[Mark72233]

Michael.bovine, awesome looking boat project. You are going to have the most frustrating, aggravating fun you have ever had. Seriously I am so happy I finally started my restoration last year in July/Aug. I still have 3-6 months left on mine. If I can finish it in that time frame it will have taken me about 6 months longer then I originally planned. Hindsight, I was way optimistic with my projected completion date. Your project is 23 years younger than mine and looks to be in much better shape so your projected completion date is doable. Have fun and I will be tagging along.

 

[K_Rich]

In the same boat (I guess pun intended!) as you are. 93 Crownline 225 CCR - project boat for my mechanic going on 2.5 years.

I'll be watching this one closely, as the interior (flooring) needs attention along with a soft spot in the cuddy I'm concerned about. GOOD LUCK, my friend!

 

[bigdirty]

Cool boat man! that is a BIG A$$ bowrider!! I bet she goes pretty good with that power package too.., without the extra weight mine had.. and I got an honest 45mph out of my 250cr...(full cabin, fridge, full head, etc.).. looks like a bunch of fun you got yourself into.. :lol: I'll be tagging along for this one...

 

[sjohnson44]

Love the boat, looks very good.
Upholstery looks to be in good shape, I'd say all it needs is a good vacuuming and cleaning!

Any soft spots in the floor?
A good way to check for rot around the transom and motor mounts is with a screw driver. Holding the blade end, knock the handle of the screw driver with about the same force as if your were swatting a fly. You will be able to tell by the sound it makes if its in good shape or not. A sharp almost hollow "KNOCK" sound should be heard if all is well. Should also tingle your ear drums slightly.
On the other hand, if a sort of "THUD" sound that lacks sharpness and doesn't flare your ear hairs, something is up.

Sure fire way to check is to drill small probing holes. If wood shavings are dry and yellow, all is good.
The screwdriver trick is so that you don't end up with Crownline Swiss Cheese.

 

[Michael.bovine]

Thanks for all the encouragement. Sjohnson44 the whole floor and stringer system is rotten. Going to be a complete gutting. A lot of the vinyl is salvageable but almost 100% of the wood backing is rotten. Just another in a loooonnnggg list of things to do. I'll try to keep this updated as I move forward.

 

[Michael.bovine]

It seems like from most of the stuff I read on here that most people are getting their glassing supplies from US Composites. Is that the best place y'all have found? Thanks

 

[tpenfield]

Although we like to promote iBoats as a source for our parts and materials, US C seems to be the favorite for fiberglassing. I have ordered from other places as well with good results, but US C seems to have most of what is needed.

 

[rcxdm40]

Jumping onboard for this one

 

[Michael.bovine]

This might be a silly question but when I remove the outdrive can it be stored on its side on a pallet or does it need to be in the upright position?

 

[Woodonglass]

This might be a silly question but when I remove the outdrive can it be stored on its side on a pallet or does it need to be in the upright position?

Fiberglass supplies depends a lot on your geographical location. Where are you??? Making an Outdrive stand is a pretty easy thing to do...http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...drives/51288-building-an-outdrive-stand/page3

but putting it on it's side won't hurt it as far as I know.

 

[Mark72233]

I have Mercruisers and 2 are laying on their sides, no leaks yet.

 

[tpenfield]

This might be a silly question but when I remove the outdrive can it be stored on its side on a pallet or does it need to be in the upright position?

Any way you like . . .

 

[Michael.bovine]

Thanks for the replies. I am in Louisville KY.

 

[Woodonglass]

Since you're in KY USC is Prolly gunna be your best source for supplies. Polyester resin is considered a Hazardous material and shipping is expensive. If you can find a local distributor of Laminating resin(no wax) then you can save quite a bit due to shipping expenses but that's not easy to do. You might check with local marinas and body shops to see where they get their supplies and find out if you can tag team with them. If not then USC would be my choice. Any resin you buy at the retail places will have wax in it and that will be problematic unless you can do all of your layups "Wet on Wet" and that's not always possible.

 

[Michael.bovine]

No Title

Here is a little update: In the last couple days I have gotten most of the interior seats, padding and misc. pieces out of the boat. Yesterday I was able to get the outdrive off the boat and thanks to your responses I have it on a pallet at our shop, see pics. I am guessing that the ujoint bellows is bad since there is water in it. When I took of the props the nut on the first one was fairly easy to remove but the big nut that holds on the second prop was a bear. Only thing I had big enough to fit it was a pipe wrench. Does anybody know if they make a better tool to remove/install that nut? I will be on vacation all next week so no progress will be happening. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[52FordF2]

Michael Sent you a PM

 

[tpenfield]

Looks like you might be replacing the bellows in addition to the u-joint & gimbal bearing :noidea:

I use a big (big) pipe wrench to take the inner nut off the prop shaft. I find it helps to make sure the threads are real clean and to apply a bit of lithium grease to the threads. I believe there is a tool of some sort (why wouldn't there be one from Mercruiser ? ).

If you can find a 3" crescent wrench, then you are in business. I could only find one that was 2-1/2" at Harbor Freight . . . . so for now it is the pipe wrench.