wrong carb I know but same basic designs from years gone by
fuel fowls via jets or orifices and the the carbs do the same job.
see 48hp carb.... not much new from the 50's :-)
this might be my idling problem but I am not sure . Any ideas?
did you or not clean the top idle chamber and small drip holes used to providethe engine with fuel in the idle stage ?? see yellowed cap on top
btw a very small channel on the side of the carb allows fuel to rise to the top...
if the wires have the " ground" identifier loop replaced with a commn connector reverse the polarity just as a test ... plungers may push or pull depending on the magnetic field
if all else fails ...well as suggested try to get a good used one
It acts like it’s not pulling solenoid down far enough
have you clean up the cavity , the mesh screen etc... apply a very light duty lubricant to the solenoid body and polish the plunger
electrically looks good ......now you need to fix the hardware
if it does not work electrically have you tested the ohms across the 2 wires controlling it. it is basically just and an electro magnet controlled valve so you better not see OPEN between the wires. see video
if the failure to let fuel go by while under pressure is not...
Leroy's will give all the basics to service the magneto
tons of info also visit DUckworks
https://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/max/articles.htm
Reviving a Vintage Big Twin
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
http://www.leeroysramblings.com/#12_OB
see manual 2002 and up but... it may help with some trouble shooting
like ETECs FICH has a VST and likely... it may have a small conical filter on the return fuel line from injectors and..... they do get clogged with fuel line crumbling pieces and cause grief
VST fuel barbs...
visit the AOMCI's site "ask a member" where oldies get fixed up
DO NOT JUNK IT!!!
https://www.aomci.org/forums/forum/ask-a-member-d1/
Join up and get a free 400 page + service manual to pamper your big twin
momentary single pole double trhow switches are made in all sizes ( maybe not yours exactly)
maybe you can fit something close enough
search AMazon MC MAster etc.....
Agree... some stuff is cheap but....I can't say that I have yet to read that many horror stories of impeller causing catastrophic damages, after reading thousands.... posts from 3-4 sites across 20 years . But I agree yes...horror stories do happen ...from neglect more likely...
best to clear the "hotter" issue asap. impeller ???
tank venting ok ??? open the fuel cap
carb (s) clean ??
running pre-mix ?? why not fix the oiler issue ??
Dry runs in the driveway probably kill more impellers than years of looking for fish.
my 75 ETEC probably has had 3 impellers in 17 years and all looked fine when replaced... did them anyway to be safe
.an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure :-)
all depends on hours/year of use & the quality of the impeller
I have seen some lasting 10 years + but to be safe 5 years sounds a good mid point. Some swear by 3 years . This should be an interesting thread.....
I notice the Honeytek works on a 9v battery. Unless the meter has a built in voltage booster to reach 275-300 DC which I doubt it would be incapable of testing an outboard capacitor in a simulated mode of operation. it may tell you a uf value or a dead capacitor but it woul be unable to...
basic VOM style meters with capacitance will give you the capacitance value (if not open or shorted) using an internal meter battery of maybe... 9v
you did not tell us what meter you purchased .
Testing capacitance at 9V will not test the capacitor's tolerance to high voltage kicks...
