Having to give it lots of throttle to start and the drip when shut off would be a bad seat or incorrect float setting. I'm thinking the float is set to high. Your flooding and it dies
At least Merc sells just the pulley 818382, 865598, 8M6500024 is about 3 1/8 inch across, and newest one is 865777
Unable to find the VP one as a breakdown part. Might be able to take to NAPA and see if they can cross
If your on a hose then 1800 is pushing it. Do think there is a problem but right now don't know what it is, but thinking the ECM
Might ring out the wires with an ohm meter to verify
^^^Agree
Most likely its the pump. The pump runs and as it heats up it starts drawing more current. The current continues to increase until it blows the fuse
Looks like it has 2 main coils and 2 items called coils (item 8) which do the switching when the magnets on the epass by (that's a maybe). At least that's what it looks like
I'm not that great with 2 cycle stuff. I would post it in the OB section and look for some of those guys. I would look at what makes the coil fire, magneto, CDI box. I'm rambling because I would have to look up the motor to see how its built
It depends on which thermostat housing so there could be two options
Use same sender and go to hardware store and get a 3/8 to 1/2 brass bushing. Screw sender into bushing and bushing into intake
If the thermostat housing has a 3/8 plug in it at the correct location, put sender in there and...
I've had both and prefer the roller, that is unless its a light boat which doesn't have the weight to roll the stop. Everything wears out and have replaced rollers when they start to crack. I do like the yellow non-marking ones better
The old prop can be put back on the drive and spins with no interference?
Would like to see the back side of the original prop
Most all require a thrust washer
https://www.amazon.com/Thrust-Washer-Propeller-Mercury-135-225hp/dp/B01M0ID93X
