Take a line twice the length needed. Tie line to bow eye and about mid way tie a bowline (or bowline bight) and place a screw pin shackle on it. Tie off inside the boat.
When anchoring, drop anchor at the stern until desired needed. Now tie a bowline on a bight to the shackle and let the...
Always anchor from the bow.
A wave might come and swap the boat, and even with the double line as shown could be an issue depending on weather, current and waves. When things happen it can happen faster then you can move
Find a way to get over the windshield
If your in a protected cove...
Finger over spark plug hole. When it comes up on the compression stroke it will blow your finger out. Not doing this can mean you might be on the exhaust stroke
Can also do it with paying no attention to which cylinder is at TDC. Any valve which is open, adjust the other. Mark with grease...
If the outlet is a 120VAC outlet then NO
AC and DC circuits shall be kept seperated. Only thing that ties grounds anywhere near together is through a galvanic isolator. Run a separate ground cable to a buss bar
This would say the drive is ventilating or something is on the prop. The motor runs bad and can still reach 4000, just doesn't add up, unless the tach was also messing up.
If something was dropped in the tank it should have been stopped by the fuel filter
I can see how that would work good.
There is a FB vid showing up of a guy filming one to grab the cleat. Did note there is a guy on the dock filming it so if it didn't go right they could do it again :ROFLMAO:
Its weight distribution. With folks moving forward it can tip the bow down and cause the prop to come closer to the surface. Grab some air and ventilate a tad. It would take some testing to figure out exactly what is happening, but this is my thought
OK sorry had to do it
I don't see an issue right now because your overloaded. The boat weight distribution would have issue with what your seeing. Try to run it with normal load and see what it does
A pic of an Eagle and something in the background. Nice pic of the Eagle but this is a boat repair help site. If you have a problem with a boat let us know and we can help :cool:
I didn't change to E/H but did change my load rite from surge to Electric. Removed the master cylinder and welded the slide to the coupler, so it would not move.
The rest for yours would be as ding mentioned, its just higher cost
Without testing I'm thinking corrosion and /or bad connection.
Reason being because it get jerky, like if it starts to miss and oil pressure at zero. So something is reducing power enough that the gauge lowers. Does the temp gauge also show cold maybe?
I use an impact screw drive and hammer if they get stuck
Haven't tried a drag link so no help there
https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8-in-Drive-Impact-Screwdriver-Set-7-Piece-2905/205674679
If I'm understanding correctly
Power to all 3 wires but nothing is working. I would start looking at grounds.
The ground cable from battery to engine block, then the 10 pin engine connector connector
