1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Glad to see you back!!! I think bleachin your foam will work just fine. Just don't let it sit to long.
Ain't motors Fun!!!!!:p
 

fstorm08

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Aug 2, 2010
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Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Glad to see you back!!! I think bleachin your foam will work just fine. Just don't let it sit to long.
Ain't motors Fun!!!!!:p

Thanks Wood! Sorry to hear about the bronchitis.

I have had a cold for weeks and just cannot seem to get rid of it.

On the motors... I agree they are fun ;);)
 

oops!

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Oct 18, 2007
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Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

so where are you at with the glassing?

one of the things i noticed with the air in the glass......was that you arent using a resin roller.....nor a layer of csm under the 1708.

the big 1708 knit is a great cloth....however....the csm on the back is good for wet on wet applications ...but not for a mechanical bond.
it will work....yes.....but not the best.....
even if the sifrace of the substraight is not flat and level....a 1.5 layer of csm.....then the 1708....will solve a world of your troubles.
 

fstorm08

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Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

so where are you at with the glassing?

one of the things i noticed with the air in the glass......was that you arent using a resin roller.....nor a layer of csm under the 1708.

the big 1708 knit is a great cloth....however....the csm on the back is good for wet on wet applications ...but not for a mechanical bond.
it will work....yes.....but not the best.....
even if the sifrace of the substraight is not flat and level....a 1.5 layer of csm.....then the 1708....will solve a world of your troubles.
I have not done anymore with the glassing as I want to make sure I do not screw it up again. Also I wanted to make sure I get the proper setup for cold weather glassing as the temps have been in the 30's-40's. From the outside of the can, the resin I am using has a 90 shelf life.

I did get a nice heavy tarp to tent the boat with an a halogen light which I believe will be needed.
Would a 1500 watt electric heater work ok for heating up the inside and substrate?

Thanks for the info oops.

Would using too much resin with the 1.5 csm layer and letting it fully cure and doing the 1708 a week later cause this too?

Also, what is a resin roller? Is that a thin-fin roller?

After much thought and going back over that I did, there was a bunch of errors I did when I did that last layup.



Thank you :)
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

This is a Glass Roller... 3" is just about perfect. Keep the acetone handy and keep it clean ALWAYS!!!

images
 

fstorm08

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Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

This is a Glass Roller... 3" is just about perfect. Keep the acetone handy and keep it clean ALWAYS!!!

images
Thanks Wood. I do have one of those so maybe some of the problem was I should have done a wet on wet layup (1.5csm then 1708) instead of waiting a week in between the 1.5csm and 1708?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

After it was dry, did you wet out the substrate first and then lay the 1708 on top of it and then roll it in. JMHO but most people in the beginning use to much resin and that can cause issues. I wet out the substrate, lay my glass and roll it in and give the resin time to absorb into the mat/cloth. I add resin where needed. I also use heavy stroke from the middle to the edges and light strokes coming back to the middle.
 

fstorm08

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Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

After it was dry, did you wet out the substrate first and then lay the 1708 on top of it and then roll it in. JMHO but most people in the beginning use to much resin and that can cause issues. I wet out the substrate, lay my glass and roll it in and give the resin time to absorb into the mat/cloth. I add resin where needed. I also use heavy stroke from the middle to the edges and light strokes coming back to the middle.

I did roll some resin on before I set the 1708 down.

I believe that is what I did, used to much resin on the 1.5csm layer. I remember the batches were kicking off so fast when I did that layer as I believe the temp was in the low 80's.
 

oops!

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Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

I have not done anymore with the glassing as I want to make sure I do not screw it up again. Also I wanted to make sure I get the proper setup for cold weather glassing as the temps have been in the 30's-40's. From the outside of the can, the resin I am using has a 90 shelf life.

I did get a nice heavy tarp to tent the boat with an a halogen light which I believe will be needed.
Would a 1500 watt electric heater work ok for heating up the inside and substrate?

Thanks for the info oops.

Would using too much resin with the 10.5 csm layer and letting it fully cure and doing the 1708 a week later cause this too?

kinda yes,,,,and kinda no...lol

Also, what is a resin roller? Is that a thin-fin roller?

woodies got a pic

After much thought and going back over that I did, there was a bunch of errors I did when I did that last layup.



Thank you :)


Ok....when laying 1708 and csm.....do it all at once....

the reason is that you want the short strand hairs of the csm to blend with the csm on the 1708......this will give you a really strong laminate.
when you lay the csm ....then let fully cure.....you need to grind off the top layer of resin and get to the glass....resin will usually come to the surface a bit. if you use too much resin....there will be a resin rich weak layer between the two.
so .....when you glass.....grind the substraight ....you want to clean the surface...and get rid of the resin rich layer....

then vacuum the dust......then clean with acetone....

now you are food to go on the csm......wet out the area with resin.....not just wipe once with a fuzzy roller.....but slide the roller sideways....
If you just "paint" the area with resin... when you get real close....look at the sub straight....there will be tiny areas where the resin is not touching the substraight....kinda like small pockets of air........well....this will cause micro bubbles in the layup.
a bondo spreader is a good way to avoid this in the wet out stage. you can use quite a bit of resin in this stage.

now lay the csm over the wet out area....take your fuzzy roller and flatten out the glass....let it soak up the resin just keep rolling.
add more resin if needed....
then take your resin roller.....and chase out the air.....very little pressure is needed. if you press too hard....you will squish the resin out of the glass......it will leave white roller marks.
once you have that rolled free of air....
lay the 1708 down.....make sure you do not disturb the csm.

as before....take the fuzzy roller and flatten it out.....keep rolling till you see if any resin is soaking into the glass.....
if not.....add more resin....
Here is where a bondo spreader is a good trick.....just move the resin around to the dry spots with the spreader...
you will see the glass soaking the resin....now take your resin roller and start form the center out....
If you are doing a corner.....start at the corner and go out....if you need more resin....add it....dont worry about too much resin.
just keep the resin roller moving...
if you are doing multiple layers of a csm/1708 sandwich.....add the next layer of csm now and repeat as many as 3 layers each of 1708/csm for a total of 6 layers.

after the last layer is done.....take the bondo spreader and swipe any excess resin off the material.
then just take a cloth.....and remove the excess resin around the edges....if you dont get all the standing resin.....just let cure. and grind it away.

if you are in a situation that more than the 6 layer total is needed....wait till the resin is almost cured....and most of the heat has gone out of the initial cure....this takes about 40 mins.
then start adding the next layers of glass starting as always, with the csm.

as for the heat and lamp....yeppers......thems the ones...
just make sure you can breath under the tarp......those fumes will knock you out cold.....and you will wake up with your face stuck to the boat !
 

oops!

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Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

OH.......as far as the batches kicking off too quick......that just take time to know how much you can do at once.

so start with smaller batches of resin at first.......after a while.....you will know how much you need and how much you can do at a time....

this is also why i only cat at a 2% rate.....after a few glassing sessions......you will know how much time you have,,,,as the batches are consistant.
 

fstorm08

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Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Thanks a bunch oops and wood!:)

With all the info you gave me and learning from mistakes I already made, I am feeling much better at the thought of the next glassing session! :)
 

ezmobee

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Mar 26, 2007
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23,767
Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Yep. I don't think the make one for the bottom and the spacing would be different.
 

fstorm08

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Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Not much going on lately. Just working on a few small items.

I did however score a 12 gallon fuel tank which if it's good, I will mount up in the bow:)

IMAG0390Custom.jpg


I will need to figure out how to pressure test it to make sure it is good... any suggestions?

I had a helper yesterday so he was helping me figure out how to best clamp the windshield to attempt a repair with some M.E.K.

IMAG0386Custom.jpg


http://www.homedepot.com/buy/klean-strip-1-qt-m-e-k-substitute-247523.html

Also worked on cleaning and polishing the top windshield trim:

IMAG0394Custom.jpg


That's about it. If time permits, I will get out and get a little more grinding done on the hull next weekend. I figure it will be better doing that in 30-40 degree temps instead of 70-80 degree temps ;)
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Try some Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish on the windshield trim. If it's non anodized aluminum the Mothers will make it shine like chrome. Wipe it on rub till it turns black. Wash it with soapy water then wax it. WOW!!!!
 

fstorm08

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Messages
686
Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Try some Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish on the windshield trim. If it's non anodized aluminum the Mothers will make it shine like chrome. Wipe it on rub till it turns black. Wash it with soapy water then wax it. WOW!!!!
Thanks for the tip Wood
 

fstorm08

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Messages
686
Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Seeing I'm in the shelf for a while (septoplasty with reconnection and turbinate reconstruction) I thought I would see what you all think I should use for a primer for the following paint.

I figure I will use Woods recommendations using the following via roll and tip:

ValsparEnamelHardner8floz.png


ValsparTractorImplementHighGlossEnameGlossWhite1gal.png


ValsparTractorImplementHighGlossEnamelJohnDeereGreen1qt.png


So my question is what would the best primer be to use?
This?

Rust-OleumMarineCoatingsPrimer1QtforWoodandFiberglass.png


or is there something else that would be better?

Thanks to all in advance
 
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