1986 ss 201

[InMotion]

Re: 1986 ss 201

Hey Glen,

I too would second what the others have said but add to it that if possible, have it so that if the tank becomes a problem, that it can be relatively easily removed. That way you are committing to the tank for now, rather than life...!

 

[dozerII]

Re: 1986 ss 201

Hey Glen,

I too would second what the others have said but add to it that if possible, have it so that if the tank becomes a problem, that it can be relatively easily removed. That way you are committing to the tank for now, rather than life...!

Hey Jim, The tank is sealed in under the floor other than two port holes, I think I will pressure test it and install it. If it becomes a problem I can cut the floor to access it then put the piece back in with some aluminum angle for trim. Like I said there was no signs of a leak before so after cleaning it real good and slathering JB all over the suspect areas I think it will be okay.

 

[dozerII]

Re: 1986 ss 201

Okay , I need some more help, I maybe should have posted this in Jasons thread as it is about battery placement! :facepalm:

In the photo you can see the dirty slimey area in front of the motor, this is about 14"s of wasted space. The engine cover was that far a head of the front of the motor. The battery was up in the compartment where that real nicely drawn arrow is. I was thinking about puttung the battery down in front of the motor, thus freeing up some storage space in the locked cuboard, plus getting the battery down lower. What do you all think?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1986 ss 201

1st time poster, long time listener...

For a rookie you picked up quickly on the posting, pix posting, layout/design, drafting & particularly battery placement skills. Fast learner it seems :facepalm: At least as savvy as he who has 9100+ posts

If you'd rather have more lockable storage room, then additional deck space, yep central & low sounds good to me... I suspect that'll be in the minority amongst the MORE DECK space crowd..

 

[barato2]

Re: 1986 ss 201

interesting. sounds like they never changed the doghouse size from the one they used for the I4.

as JB points out, you could get some more deck space if you built a new doghouse. but failing that, i like that battery location as long as you secure it stoutly.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1986 ss 201

Looonnnnngggg time lurker here and I had to join so I could comment. Why all this battery talk all of a sudden? Did this Jason guy start something?

Glen, are you planning on changing the dog house? That is wasted space and tossing the batteries down low has to be better a better solution. If you are planning on a modified dog house the batts could still fit down there and a seat on top or more storage if you want.

On the tank pits, etc. , is JB Weld really a good solution? What does the inside look like? I'm thinking out loud a good tank lining might be better.

I'm not going to say anything about your picture annotating skills until I see you try to paint a boat with a mouse.

 

[dozerII]

Re: 1986 ss 201

1st time poster, long time listener...

For a rookie you picked up quickly on the posting, pix posting, layout/design, drafting & particularly battery placement skills. Fast learner it seems :facepalm: At least as savvy as he who has 9100+ posts

If you'd rather have more lockable storage room, then additional deck space, yep central & low sounds good to me... I suspect that'll be in the minority amongst the MORE DECK space crowd..

You guys crack me up , I love this site, Ya JB, Mom said I was kinda Special

interesting. sounds like they never changed the doghouse size from the one they used for the I4.

as JB points out, you could get some more deck space if you built a new doghouse. but failing that, i like that battery location as long as you secure it stoutly.

Actually, I think they went the other way there was room under the dog house for a V8 with the extra room to the front.

Looonnnnngggg time lurker here and I had to join so I could comment. Why all this battery talk all of a sudden? Did this Jason guy start something?

Glen, are you planning on changing the dog house? That is wasted space and tossing the batteries down low has to be better a better solution. If you are planning on a modified dog house the batts could still fit down there and a seat on top or more storage if you want.

On the tank pits, etc. , is JB Weld really a good solution? What does the inside look like? I'm thinking out loud a good tank lining might be better.

I'm not going to say anything about your picture annotating skills until I see you try to paint a boat with a mouse.

GA your doing pretty good for a lurker, After cleaning the tank up real good I'm pretty confidant it will last another 20 years. The old Dog house was totally pooched, okay that was bad. I could shorten it up the 14"and make a lot more room in the boat and then put the batteries in the spot with the blue arrow or the yellow arrow!!! But then again maybe there is a better place, oh what to do!!! JASON

 

[barato2]

Re: 1986 ss 201

didn't realize your doghouse was toast. if you're having to rebuild the doghouse anyway, seems like a no-brainer to me to shrink it and make some deck space. moving battery forward 18" won't really affect your CG that much so i'd put it back in stock location

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1986 ss 201

I could shorten it up the 14"and make a lot more room in the boat and then put the batteries in the spot with the blue arrow or the yellow arrow!!! But then again maybe there is a better place, oh what to do!!! JASON

Ya only got the 1 lifeline/fone a friend & this, this is how you choose to use it?:facepalm:

Might need to get B2 to send ya a mega JB weld set.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1986 ss 201

I say put the batteries where they are the easiest to get to. I'm guessing the original location was for a single so one would have to go on the floor. Yellow arrow would allow for shorter large gauge cables to a switch. I like shorter battery cable runs for cost and reduced chances of insulation cutting, etc.

 

[JD in Milwaukee]

Re: 1986 ss 201

I would do the same thing with JB weld. It's really tough stuff. How about sealing from the inside as well? With something like this. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealers.html There many different manufacturers of tank sealants.

I do believe if I were in your shoes, I'd prolly swab on some nice, wide slabs of JB weld over all that stuff and run with it.

I know the safety patrol guys will say replace it, which is good advice too.

Eh, scratching head here....


Well, you did a heck of a job posting photos, welcome to iboats!!

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1986 ss 201

Sorry can't talk about it, I'm on batt placement time out

 

[FishNmemories]

Re: 1986 ss 201

Hi, Glen I gotta make some suggestions here too...

1) locating batteries forward of the engine could result in an explosion from gas fumes if the alum tank does leak either presently or in the future due to spark from batteries
2) the tank is a critical component of the vessel due to the flammable liquid, it just isn't a good idea to take a chance on it leaking so... is it possible to weld patches of alum over corroded areas and possible cracks to seal it? (but $650 for another one ouch)
3)as you probably know the blower should always be operated 1st before starting engine especially after fueling up, batteries on my i/o were located aft port and starboard side and I felt pretty comfortable that there would be no explosion while the blower sucked out any fumes that settled down in the bilge area

my thoughts,
Rusty

Buddy used JB weld to repair his tank on a powersaw years ago, but that was something one could easily repair again.

 

[dozerII]

Re: 1986 ss 201

didn't realize your doghouse was toast. if you're having to rebuild the doghouse anyway, seems like a no-brainer to me to shrink it and make some deck space. moving battery forward 18" won't really affect your CG that much so i'd put it back in stock location

I'm thinking your right B2, shorter dog house.

Ya only got the 1 lifeline/fone a friend & this, this is how you choose to use it?:facepalm:

Might need to get B2 to send ya a mega JB weld set.

I dropped a bone for Jas but he's not interested.

I say put the batteries where they are the easiest to get to. I'm guessing the original location was for a single so one would have to go on the floor. Yellow arrow would allow for shorter large gauge cables to a switch. I like shorter battery cable runs for cost and reduced chances of insulation cutting, etc.

GA I think I can put one on either side at the transom with no problems and short cables.

I would do the same thing with JB weld. It's really tough stuff. How about sealing from the inside as well? With something like this. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealers.html There many different manufacturers of tank sealants.

Thanks JD I will look into the product.

Sorry can't talk about it, I'm on batt placement time out

Chicken

Hi, Glen I gotta make some suggestions here too...

1) locating batteries forward of the engine could result in an explosion from gas fumes if the alum tank does leak either presently or in the future due to spark from batteries
2) the tank is a critical component of the vessel due to the flammable liquid, it just isn't a good idea to take a chance on it leaking so... is it possible to weld patches of alum over corroded areas and possible cracks to seal it? (but $650 for another one ouch)
3)as you probably know the blower should always be operated 1st before starting engine especially after fueling up, batteries on my i/o were located aft port and starboard side and I felt pretty comfortable that there would be no explosion while the blower sucked out any fumes that settled down in the bilge area

my thoughts,
Rusty

Buddy used JB weld to repair his tank on a powersaw years ago, but that was something one could easily repair again.

Hey Rusty
1 the origional battery placement compartment is all in the engine bay so any sparks would have got it there to.

2 After a good cleaning and sanding I inspected the tank real well, and the pitting was not as bad as I first thought. I sealed all the opennings in the tank and presurized it to 3 psi like it said on the tag on the tank, thn soaked it in soapy water no leaks anywhere. Then I JB welded the suspect crack areas on the bottom and the worst of the pitting. Hit the whole tank with etching primer and gave it a coat of white paint. Photo later.

3 I always open the engine cover sniff for fumes, then start the blower before starting the boat, don't need no fireworks.

Thanks Rusty

 

[ctriverfish]

Re: 1986 ss 201

have you tried sealing it up and using a compressor to fill it to maybe 15 psi to check for leaks? solution of dish deterg brushed onto suspect areas will show up any pinhole leaks with a stream of bubbles.

"DO NOT PUT 15 PSI IN THAT TANK" if you are going to do a leak test with air us a hand pump and only put 1-3 PSI of air in the tank 15 PSI will make it look like a ball and will split the welds. I am talking from experience. I wish I had pictures to show but that was years ago and something I wish I could forget. BIG BOOM NO ONE WAS HURT BUT COULD HAVE TURND OUT DIFFERANT.

 

[tigger3650]

Re: 1986 ss 201

Glen,
My boat currently has a battery switch on the outside of the Starboard side of the doghouse. My batteries are located (1 on each side) in those locked compartments that you pointed out. I have also been tossing around the idea of moving the batteries and switch locations. I am thinking of putting Both batteries on the floor, in plastic battery boxes on the port side under the lock boxes. Here is my thought train on this (as short as it is anyway)

The majority of the time it is myself (220 lbs) my son (maybe 50 lbs) and my wife (who is somewhere in between there {a lot closer to the 50lbs then the 220 lbs}). I am thinking the extra battery weight opposite the driver seat will help balance the boat. I also would relocate the switch to where it can be reached from outside the boat on the driver’s side more for convenience then anything. The only downfall would be the long run of heavy wire from the batteries to the switch but Think I have that covered with some heavy Aircraft wire (it has a far higher amp and environmental rating than most of the Marine grade wire you can buy). I also want to run accessory power from bus blocks rather than individual wires from the switch.

Anyone who has ideas or constructive criticism please chime in!!!

Mike

 

[tigger3650]

Re: 1986 ss 201

Glen,
Did you have any issues with getting gas into your tank before you took it all apart?

I am getting ready to replace my fill hose and rout it a little differently. Right now it comes straight down the gunwale, and then across under the floorboard to the tank. I literally have to trickle the gas in to keep it from back splashing on me (the first time it looked like a giant gas fountain erupting). I have ran pressurized air from every point between the fill cap and the vent outlet on the side of the boat. Everything checked good so I am guessing my problem is a dip in the filler line somewhere. I am going to replace it this week and run it diagonally down and across the side console, aft of the wall to see if this fixes the problem.

Mike

 

[dozerII]

Re: 1986 ss 201

"DO NOT PUT 15 PSI IN THAT TANK" if you are going to do a leak test with air us a hand pump and only put 1-3 PSI of air in the tank 15 PSI will make it look like a ball and will split the welds. I am talking from experience. I wish I had pictures to show but that was years ago and something I wish I could forget. BIG BOOM NO ONE WAS HURT BUT COULD HAVE TURND OUT DIFFERANT.

I only tested to 3 psi like the tag on the tank says, thanks ct

 

[dozerII]

Re: 1986 ss 201

Glen,
My boat currently has a battery switch on the outside of the Starboard side of the doghouse. My batteries are located (1 on each side) in those locked compartments that you pointed out. I have also been tossing around the idea of moving the batteries and switch locations. I am thinking of putting Both batteries on the floor, in plastic battery boxes on the port side under the lock boxes. Here is my thought train on this (as short as it is anyway)

The majority of the time it is myself (220 lbs) my son (maybe 50 lbs) and my wife (who is somewhere in between there {a lot closer to the 50lbs then the 220 lbs}). I am thinking the extra battery weight opposite the driver seat will help balance the boat. I also would relocate the switch to where it can be reached from outside the boat on the driver’s side more for convenience then anything. The only downfall would be the long run of heavy wire from the batteries to the switch but Think I have that covered with some heavy Aircraft wire (it has a far higher amp and environmental rating than most of the Marine grade wire you can buy). I also want to run accessory power from bus blocks rather than individual wires from the switch.

Anyone who has ideas or constructive criticism please chime in!!!

Mike

Hey Mike, I'm kinda thinking along the same lines on the battery. I am only going to install one at the rear on the port side. I am going to make a compartment in the floor in the center just in front of the consuls for a 100lb agm for accessories and trolling motor.

Glen,
Did you have any issues with getting gas into your tank before you took it all apart?

I am getting ready to replace my fill hose and rout it a little differently. Right now it comes straight down the gunwale, and then across under the floorboard to the tank. I literally have to trickle the gas in to keep it from back splashing on me (the first time it looked like a giant gas fountain erupting). I have ran pressurized air from every point between the fill cap and the vent outlet on the side of the boat. Everything checked good so I am guessing my problem is a dip in the filler line somewhere. I am going to replace it this week and run it diagonally down and across the side console, aft of the wall to see if this fixes the problem.

Mike

I never got the chance to put gas in the boat prior to the tear down, but I'm sure it was the same as yours. I am thinking about using
1 3/4" aluminized exhaust tubing for the fill tube on the 201, have it bend to fit down the gunwall and under the floor, then just use 6" of rubber hose to connect to the tank and the filler.

 

[djpeters]

Re: 1986 ss 201

Sorry I'm a little late to the tank issue, but mine had some pitting where it rested on the bottom. I poked at it like you did and it still seemed very solid. I did take mine to a radiator shop and had the inside boiled out. It's spotless inside now. He also pressure tested it and all checked out fine. I think he charged me $90. He did it twice cause it was nasty inside.