'79 Venture Bass Boat - Complete Restoration

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 16, 2011
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11,475
Making good progress ! It's a dirty nasty job but somebody has to do it .. :D
You may want to add some support under the hull to help keep it's shape . Build some extra bunks or something and dbl. check you cap measurements .
Hey if ya get to hot the pool is just a few steps away ! :cool:
 

dillonheath08

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 6, 2014
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For a minute there I honestly considered jumping right in! The hull has very little flex to it, surprisingly. Even when brushed up against. Could I measure the inside edges of my cap and go off of that? And do like GT and use 2x4s and clamps to hold my hull at that measurement? The only thing that would keep me from being able to push the hull in to align it would be the two boxes of flotation foam on the left and right of the stern they will need to be tabbed to the hull and the new deck. I didn't take any initial hull measurements. I took the cap off a week before joining the boat restoration advice world that is iBoats. Measured everything but that actually. My next project is to add the wooden rail to the top of the hull that you can drill into to connect the hull and cap. My boat was riveted together. What wood should I use?
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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Not sure what type wood GTused . I think it may have been just plywood ..
The main thing on supporting the hull is when the deck tabbing was cut out on the demo . Ya got gravity working against you . I would think at least before you start any glass work with the stringers or transom that you just kind of snug it up with some flat 2x's or something so when your walking around it does not sag the hull down while you have your weight in one spot . It's not hard to put a hook or a belly in the hull when glassing the stringers in .
Just ask Pmc ... Bad spot on the hull made him go to a tinny ! :eek: :faint2:
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
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Jul 13, 2011
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What wood should I use?
I used ACX Fir plywood...for the stringer blanks and everything else, so far...
I sprung for the added cost of Marine Grade B plywood for the transom plates...
Sphelps is right, when all the structure is out of the hull, it can easily flex and create problems...
 

dillonheath08

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 6, 2014
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I measured my hull and cap the measurements are spot on. My deck tabbing never touches the sides of the hull. It stops close to a foot from the sides. I'm gonna get me some clamps and 2x4s this coming weekend and I'll build some braces to hold those measurements. I think I am gonna take a sheet of my BC ply and cut me some 1-1/2" strips for the stern, port, and starboard. The bow will need smaller strips. Gonna use LOCTITE PL adhesive as the glue. Sheet rock screws to hold it while the glue dries.
 

dillonheath08

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Jun 6, 2014
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GT maybe you can help me with another planning problem. I told y'all I took that live well pump out. I was wondering if there was some way of relocating the new one closer to the door on the stern deck
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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You'll actually get a better bond using Titebond III wood glue to laminate your plywood.;)
 

dillonheath08

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Jun 6, 2014
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Good bond for gluing the new transom in place too?

If all goes accordingly I should have fiberglass before August. Hoping before August. Pretty good wait but my college tuition went up this year. :facepalm: Always something. Guess I am helping pay for a basketball or a jersey or something.. College comes first and foremost. Gotta make the good money for these kinda projects to continue haha.

I get off at 5:30 in the evening so from then till dark I will be working to get as much done as possible. I am still chiseling out the stringers in the groove I have mentioned before. Have I mentioned I hate demo? Pretty sure I have.. The grinding will start once I have that groove clean of all of the wood. Can't express to you all how excited I am. I am going to go ahead and cut my strips for the top of the hull and my two transom pieces and get them glued together.

Plenty of cardboard here at work to make as many templates as I want.. GT you would be in heaven based on what I have seen in your thread! And there's more stacking up each week..

 

dillonheath08

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Jun 6, 2014
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My fiance and I were out riding around this weekend and I passed by a house that had an older Bayliner out in front of it. It appeared to be a Bowrider. In need of some serious TLC. Needless to say she wouldn't even let me stop and look.. It had potential. I have caught the bug haven't I? Ain't even completed one and I am looking for another haha.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Good bond for gluing the new transom in place too?

No! TB III is just for Wood to Wood gluing applications. To glue the transom to the fiberglass skin you should read the info in the second link in my signature below. It has all the details for fabricating and installing your transom properly.
 

dillonheath08

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Jun 6, 2014
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This is possibly a dumb question but one I have been wondering since I watched Friscoboater tab his transom in during the Carlson Project. At the top of the transom what do you tab to since the skin and transom are flush?
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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No tabbing required on the top. Just ensure to wrap the CSM and or 1708 over the top edge to ensure it's waterproofed. Tabbing is only required on the sides and bottom of the hull. This is where all the structural strength comes from.
 

dillonheath08

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Jun 6, 2014
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2-1/2 hours of chiseling and grinding. One down one to go. Found an easy way to wash fiberglass dust off. Jump into the pool. Sure feels better than a cold shower
 

Woodonglass

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For future reference for others, it's a lot easier if you take the time to cut the channels flush with the hull using a flexible sawzall blade on the sawzall at the time of cutting away the top portion of the stringer. I know everyone worries alot about cutting a hole in their hull. While it is a worthy effort to try to avoid this, it is NOT a big deal and it quite and easy repair, and in the long run nothing to worry about. We have seen 5 ft slits cut with circular saws cut that were repaired with 10 mins of work and 5 bucks worth of materials. Don't let this deter you from getting things cut out of your boat. This also cuts way down on the amount of grinding required later on. Cutting is much easier and faster than grinding. Having a flat hull surface to work with would allow you to have the option of using a circular saw and setting the blade to a shallow depth and then setting a guide board on the hull to ensure a straight cut along the channel to ensure you would not cut into the sides of the channel. Cutting multiple kerfs into the wood makes it very easy to then chisel it out of the channel. This also works well when removing the transom. Cutting kerfs into the wood at a depth just shy of the outer skin glass will allow you to chisel off the wood very easily. There are various videos, here on the forum demonstrationg these techniques.
 
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dillonheath08

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 6, 2014
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Hoping to knock the grinding out this afternoon. Might accidentally carry over to tomorrow afternoon
 

wolfsmurf

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May 6, 2010
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131
Not trying to throw a monkey wrench into your gears but have you drilled any test holes into the wood in the very bottom of this boat. The venture I did (think theres a link in my sig) had the same ironing board looking piece down the center, when I drilled a couple 1/8 holes in it it started weeping water. Theres foam under there. Maybe you have already addressed this. I haven't read the whole post yet and haven't posted in a bit but the guys on here are first rate with help.
 
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