'93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

[redneckpunk]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

Had the day off, unexpectedly, so did a little of work on the tub. I removed the fuel fill line, vent line and feed line and replaced with all new, cleaned up some of the wiring birds nest under the splash well and finished removing the last small section of carpet glue inside. My g/f asked if its too soon to call herself a "tinny" widow. LOL!! Plan for Saturday is to pickup my plywood for the deck, get it cut and start to put on some Spar Varnish. Plan on ordering vinyl later this week or first part of next after I remeasure 5-6 more times to be sure I have it right. First time jitters I guess

~RNP

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

Please tell her she's currently an iboat's widow, as such she's earned the title of The Admiral (please note capitalization, and refer to her in this manner while in her presence. Other less socially acceptable terms have been, in no particular order: Fun Governor, The Warden, SWMBO~she who must be obeyed. These terms are not to be used in her presence, particularly SWMBO. They know, so no reason to remind them that we know too)...

Until MBS strikes, she's not officially a tin widow just yet...........:faint2:

Multiple
Boat
Sydrome
:bolt:
Affects 1 in 4 iboaters
9.9 of 10 tin boat owners :facepalm:

Here's your hat: :tinfoil3:

The iboat's widows group doesn't hold regular meetings, but The Admiral's Society for the Prevention of MBS meetings (TAS PoMBS for short) are on the 2nd Tues and 4th Thurs every month. Some adult frosty libations may in fact be consumed at that meeting

... So please be aware.. She'll likely need it....

From my Admiral to yours: Welcome!

 

[redneckpunk]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

Thanks for the heads up, but gotta admit this boat "was" the second, as I snatched it up before I completed and sold my first restore project. So needless to say shes already familiar with the "adult frosty libations".

~RNP

 

[redneckpunk]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

So the wheels are turning in my head and thought I'd run this idea by you guys. The pic below (sorry about the editing my computer skills are limited) shows the void in the floor that I keep seeing only as wasted space. Highlighted in red is the fuel tank. In green is the void. This area is measures 67"L x 24"W x 9.5" deep (from top of deck to top of center rail). Im wondering if I can make or buy a "pan" to fit down in there with a hatch cover that would provide storage for an oar, shorter 2piece fishing rods, stern light pole, etc.. The old Fisher I had 10 years ago had a similar design. By only going as deep as the center rail it will allow water to drain underneath to the stern as originally designed and the pain will have its own drain plug as well so it doesnt fill up. Only concern is the cross supports for the deck and the 24" width. Any ideas? Or should I just lay some foam in there and try to forget about the wasted space? No wonder this stuff is so addicting, the more I work on it the more ideas I have for mods

~RNP

 

[jigngrub]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

I'd fill it with foam, you can never have too much floatation foam.

Making that a storage area would be a haven for moisture. I'd stick with above deck storage in the front and rear elevated decks.

 

[Teamster]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

How about a longer fuel tank,...

More fuel means more range,...

 

[redneckpunk]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

How about a longer fuel tank,...

More fuel means more range,...

Im thinking the current 37 gallons is plenty for what I do

 

[jigngrub]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

Im thinking the current 37 gallons is plenty for what I do

You'd have to take out a second mortgage if you put a bigger one in!:faint2:

 

[Teamster]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

During a tourney friends of mine will burn through 55 gallons a day for 5 days of pre-fishing and then still have two to three days of tournament fishing,.......

I only fish one of those a year,..lol,..

 

[redneckpunk]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

So headed out Sat morning to p/u the plywood for the new decking and the Spar to coat it with. Problem I have is I've taken a lot of notes from all the rebuilds I've read through but the Admiral did some cleaning and some of the notes that I must have left laying around are now gone. And that includes about what type of plywood. I know I dot want PT and pretty sure I need outdoor, but dont rememeber if its MDO, MDX, or MDwhatever. A little help if possible? Also, the original decking was only 1/2in. Would going to 5/8in make much difference in terms of how solid it is under foot? I know weight will be more but dont think it will be that much.

Also, while asking questions, I'll toss these out too. I plan on using vinyl with exposed fasteners, should I predrill before laying the vinyl? Also, with the fasteners, should I use a washer to avoid twisting the vinyl? And what style fasteners would be best to avoid sticking up to high?

Thnks in advance

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

MDO
Aurauco (sp?)
Fir plywood (ext grade)
ACX ext grade

are all usable plys

Based on this pix:

You need to consider the modifications to 5/8" decking will do to your consoles. They may need adjustment to keep the center glass alignment so you can open, close & latch it. It's only 1/8", but it maybe enough to make them misalign. If you're changing the layout anyway, it may not make much difference. You may be able to trim the console an 1/8", but w/ the bent 'foot' supporting the console, that may not be as easy as it sounds.

The 5/8 would make a stiffer deck, and may be worth figuring all that ^^^ out.

Flotation foam plan?

 

[Teamster]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

Exterior grade plywood for sure,....I couldn't tell ya what letter combinations though,...

Check to make sure that the change in size from 1/2 to 5/8 will still fit right with everything else,.....

I would pre-drill the holes for sure, no reason to take the chance of the drill catching the vinyl and ripping it up,...

Most boats I have seen use a washer with the screw,.....It's not a flat washer though,....Not sure what it is called, But they fit the screw and trim it out better,........If that makes any sense,...

 

[Teamster]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

Based on this pix:

You need to consider the modifications to 5/8" decking will do to your consoles. They may need adjustment to keep the center glass alignment so you can open, close & latch it. It's only 1/8", but it maybe enough to make them misalign. If you're changing the layout anyway, it may not make much difference. You may be able to trim the console an 1/8", but w/ the bent 'foot' supporting the console, that may not be as easy as it sounds.

The 5/8 would make a stiffer deck, and may be worth figuring all that ^^^ out.

Flotation foam plan?

That is what I was trying to say about the "fit",....

 

[jigngrub]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

So headed out Sat morning to p/u the plywood for the new decking and the Spar to coat it with. Problem I have is I've taken a lot of notes from all the rebuilds I've read through but the Admiral did some cleaning and some of the notes that I must have left laying around are now gone. And that includes about what type of plywood. I know I dot want PT and pretty sure I need outdoor, but dont rememeber if its MDO, MDX, or MDwhatever. A little help if possible? Also, the original decking was only 1/2in. Would going to 5/8in make much difference in terms of how solid it is under foot? I know weight will be more but dont think it will be that much.

Also, while asking questions, I'll toss these out too. I plan on using vinyl with exposed fasteners, should I predrill before laying the vinyl? Also, with the fasteners, should I use a washer to avoid twisting the vinyl? And what style fasteners would be best to avoid sticking up to high?

Thnks in advance

Plywood types:
MDO
ABX
BCX

Plywood thickness:
5/8" will be sturdier and is only 12-1/2 lbs. heavier per sheet than 1/2". The biggest problem you'll have going with 5/8" is finding it in the type of plywood you want. The above 3 types mainly come in 1/2" and 3/4"... but you might get lucky.

Don't bother predrilling the plywood, drilling after the vinyl has been laid isn't a problem.

I strongly suggest using blind rivets (pop) to fasten the decking down with, screws can and will twist the vinyl. Using a trim washer on a screw has a higher and sharper profile than a rivet does. I've not had one single problem with the rivets that hold down my decking... they don't stick up too high, they don't twist the vinyl, and they hold well.

Finding long enough ones isn't a problem either, I have 3/4" decking on my boat and used these:

If you use 3/16" diameter rivets you can set them with a regular setting tool.

Stainless steel decking srews and trim washers are mucho expensive too. Aluminum rivets will be a fraction of the cost of SS screws and washers, even if you have to buy the setting tool.

 

[redneckpunk]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

MDO
Aurauco (sp?)
Fir plywood (ext grade)
ACX ext grade

are all usable plys

Based on this pix:

You need to consider the modifications to 5/8" decking will do to your consoles. They may need adjustment to keep the center glass alignment so you can open, close & latch it. It's only 1/8", but it maybe enough to make them misalign. If you're changing the layout anyway, it may not make much difference. You may be able to trim the console an 1/8", but w/ the bent 'foot' supporting the console, that may not be as easy as it sounds.

The 5/8 would make a stiffer deck, and may be worth figuring all that ^^^ out.

Flotation foam plan?

Floatation will for the most part remain the original poured in foam. I did numerous core samples throughout and found it is in good shape. There are a couple small open spots that didnt pour solid that I will be filling in, a small bow section with none will also be filled with some cut to fit pool noodles. And at this point, I'm still debating a deck locker with foam beneath it or just foam in the wasted space below deck. Also will be replacing the foam under the top of gunwells that was half-assed by manufacturer with 19ft long sides and only about 6ft of foam blocks shoved up under each side

Thanks for the advise on floor thickness. I had already been considering the effects on the consoles and had a plan to adjust for that. However, what I hadnt been considering until you guys reposted my pic is that the decking is installed under the side skirts and those would require adjusting whick would throw off my side panel alignment, and just snowballing to a major hassle. It's great to have experienced people who have already made these mistakes to bounce ideas off of before creating a ton of additional work for myself.

~RNP

 

[redneckpunk]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

So after 2 hours and 3 different stores, was able to get my plywood home and start cutting and sanding. Probably would have gotten first coat of Spar on, but had a sick Admiral so had to shuttle Harleys to Father-in-laws myself and make a Target run for her. Excuse the messy garage

New bow deck

Deck

Scrap pile when done

~RNP

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

Ply looks nice, panels look great!

 

[redneckpunk]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

Ply looks nice, panels look great!

All credit so far goes to all of you on iboats and the great advise and tips

 

[redneckpunk]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

So was up fairly early Sunday morning putting on the first coat of Spar with the Admiral following behind doing the edges. When I got home after the SuperBowl, 12+hrs later, I hit the boards with some 220 sandpaper and wiped it all done hoping to lay a second coat monday morning. Plans changed and got called into work early on Monday so couldnt get the next coat done, but when I got home that night, to my surprise the garage door was up and the Admiral had just finished up the entire second coat for me. Not sure if its a sign she wants to help more or hurry up and get the project done. LOL!!

 

[redneckpunk]

Re: '93 Monark Pro 1900 rebuild

Hey jig Im seriously considering going the rivet route on the deck and was wondering if you used standard size flange or went with a bit larger diameter? Place I'm getting mine from has the 3/16 rivet with either a 0.375 diameter or 0.625 diameter. The originals were 0.375 and when I drilled them out many had countersunk into the deck boards. Was thinking larger diameter might help prevent that. Thoughts?