banshee transom and likely stringers

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

basically the entire boat has foam with glass over it and im wondering how far back i should be cutting the deck just behind the last seat the deck has rot where fiberglass wasn't put on thick enough or something. its a shame the transom really isn't as bad as i anticipated the wood is soaked but only a 1/4 or so is rotted away completely (so far)

is there a maximum number of pics i can post i cant post anymore right now

Anyway my other problem is my transom is 1 3/4 thick without the fiberglass outerskin. problem is the plywood i have available is 3/4 inch thick so im wondering if should not worry about the last 1/4 inch or laminate two layers of 3/4 and one of 1/4 the use the thickness of fiberglass to gain up to 2 inches that the transom was originally.

first pic is the floor partially rotten last pics are the transom where one bad spot is

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

v153 i check out the site you posted. do you or anyone else know what year they started making the glastron gt-150. because im sure the tag on my boat says 1968 which is before the years of the 150. unless its the wrong plate ect. Ill have to double check the plate and post a pic of it. also i found out that sunray bought the right to gt-150 and produced the boat under the name of ss-150 kinda cool

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

so heres one of my plans of attack on the transom being that there isnt any major structure in front of the transom i thought i would build structure behind the transom. let me know what you al think of this idea.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

I'd go with 2 - 3/4" and 1-1/4" for your transom. What's the extra structure for?

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

I'd go with 2 - 3/4" and 1-1/4" for your transom. What's the extra structure for?

the extra structure is just because there wasn't anything in front of it. I thought maybe the extra structure would help the top of the transom not flex backwards as much. other banshees and gt-150's had bigger flotation boxes on either side of the transom and looked like they where 2 or 3 times bigger. It was just a thought process i had but if you feel it wouldn't be beneficial then it wil save me some time and money

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

I personally see no added benefit. She'll be plenty strong once she's all glassed, and tabbed to the hull properly.

 

[V153]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

First year for the 150 was '71 so yer tags a lil early. Personally I wouldn't worry about it.

I used two 3/4" pieces sandwiched & laminated fore & aft with biax. Squished to the hull with Ad-Tech pourable transom compound. Worked like a charm though it ended up a hair too thick. That problem was easily solved by doing a lil additional grinding/sanding on the backside of the splashwell.

I'm with WOG on the extra structure, I see no benefit either. We should all recognize by now, you can't reinforce a transom by sticking stuff behind it? If it'd make ya feel better than by all means put some knees in front of the motor, but I doubt you'll gain anything by installing what you've drawn.

Boat was my '71 V153 btw.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

First year for the 150 was '71 so yer tags a lil early. Personally I wouldn't worry about it.


i wasnt too worried about the tags being too early i couldnt understand how a glastron was the orignal designer but according to my tag it was several years earlier. i just found it kinda odd. maybe my boat really is newer than what the tags said. and then again i maybe wrong of the year of theboat as well

as far as the transom i was justy looking at how the upper fiberglass in the splashwell had started to crack and the the top part of the transom was still really solid bottom not so much( it is soaked but not rotted to point that the opposite side to the crack was). You can see the crack kinda in the second and third pic on post 39. it had me kinda concerned. the other problem is what do i need to do about that crack. Ill get better pics of the areas in concern soon. im not really to point of worrying about that at this very moment anyways. Thanks for all your feedback i appreciate it all very much.

 

[V153]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Here's a GT a guy did a couple years back. Note the addition of the quasi 'knees'. That boat turned out nice & will run a lil under 50 w/'78 (crank rated) 115 OMC. It's one of the red & white ones pictured in an earlier post.

 

[V153]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Regarding cracks the best thing you can do, imo, is to beef em up good from the inside. Enough so that that you don't need to perform major surgery to the outside?

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

v153 thanks for the pic with stringers. do you have a link for that particular rebuild or more pics of the stringer setup.

i managed to get the transom out in three pieces the first broke in half (wasn't surprised buy that). the second layer right against the outer skin came out in one piece and delaminated incredibly easy (thankfully). only thing that am surprised about and a little concerned is i didn't find any structure that went against the transom. no stringers that were tabbed to it. the only wood tabbed to the transom was the plywood around the bilge hole. ill post the pics and maybe you guys with the expert eyes can lead me in the right direction.


is there suck a boat that wouldn't have stringers under the deck and use foam only for structure then add the deck to further strength it. This lack of stringer at the transom has me baffled.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

the first pic in the previous post is the main part of the deck and the area in front is where the bilge was. it was like a three level deck.the main deck then there was a step down about an inch or so and the was a thinner piece plywood with a hole cut out for access to the transom plug. and the hull inside the where the plug was. not to sure if that was made that way or an add on.

the second pic is the transom completely removed and the foam on either side is totally soaked

the third one is the bilge area again with the thin plywood cut out

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers



ok these pics are straight down the transom with the plywood removed and at the bottom is the hull but somewhere in that area i expected to see something that would resemble a stringer or wood.

the third image is the center of the transom where the drain hole was

the first image is the starboard side right where the foam is. I know in this pic the black looks a plywood stringer but i think its just the imprint of the transom in the resin. and the peanut butter they used wasn't very thick at all

the second image is the port side where the foam is

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

i found a restoration of a gt-150 and i think i like this idea for the transom area looks clean and functional. just wondering if its a doable addition to mine

the only thing i have that that boat doesnt have is a big hydralic pump for the trim

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Quick question about 1708 fiberglass.everyone refernces 1708 biaxial in there rebuilds. the supplier im getting materials from doesnt have 1708 or isnt callled that. Its my understanding that 1708 simply means a layer of 17 oz biaxial mat and a layer of 8 oz csm (am i correct) the supplier does have 12 18 and 24 oz biaxial with or without mat and the listings say 1 oz of mat. they all say 0/90 which i assume is the thread orientaton. i assume i need the biaxial with mat but unsure of which weight. Also is getting the biaxial with mat really nessecary when the majority of the time your using csm with the layers as well.thanks again all for your help.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

.i think i like this idea for the transom area looks clean and functional. just wondering if its a doable addition to mine. The only thing i have that that boat doesnt have is a big hydralic pump for the trim

I don't see anything that would prevent you doing something similar to yours....

Tucking the trim pump in there too shouldn't be a problem, you may just need to make the space in the middle a little bigger then the gas tank.

Be back in a bit about the 1708..

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Here's the specs for the 'typical' 1708 glass:

DBM 1708 Biaxial

[SIZE=-1]+/- 45degree Contains double bias(17oz) stitched at 45degrees along with one layer of 3/4oz mat. Thickness: 0.044"[/SIZE]

[SIZE=-1] [SIZE=-1]Cat No.[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Description[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Price / Yard[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]FG-170838[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]38" Width[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Same[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]1 to 9 Yd[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]$6.60[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Same[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]10 to 24 Yd[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]6.40[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Same[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]25 or More Yd[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]6.05[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]FG-170838R[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Roll (90-100yd)[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]$2.94/ Pound[/SIZE] [SIZE=-2]Full rolls are sold by weight and can vary from 140 to 160 LBs.[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Cat No.[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Description[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Price / Yard[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]FG-170850[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]50" Width[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Same[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]1 to 9 Yd[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]$8.50[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Same[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]10 to 24 Yd[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]8.25[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Same[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]25 or More Yd[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]7.80[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]FG-170850R[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Roll (90-100yd)[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]$2.94/ Pound[/SIZE] [SIZE=-2]Full rolls are sold by weight and can vary from 185 to 205 LBs.[/SIZE] [/SIZE]

Not sure what difference substituting 90* stitching would make, but it's a .75oz CSM stitched to the back @1708, not 8oz...

 

[banshee owner]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

thanks for the info. would be able to take a look at the site im buying from and maybe se what you guys would feel is the stuff i should use Knitted Fabrics : Noahsmarine.com

im thinking the 18oz double bias with mat is the stuff they would call 1708 biaxial. just want a second opinion . the thing that was throwing me off was the second line being biaxial but with 0/90 strands the biaxial is slightly cheaper but if i have to go with the double then it is what it is

thanks again for your input and patience

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Um, this is 1708:
18 Oz X 50" Double Bias (+/- 45) W/mat-y : Db600m : Noahsmarine.com
17oz
45*
.75oz CSM

From their description on that page:

+/- 45degree. Contains double bias (17oz) stitched at 45 degrees .75 oz. Mat on back

.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: banshee transom and likely stringers

Yep, this ^^^ is the stuff you should use..
18 Oz Biaxial 0/90 : Noahsmarine.com