"Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

here is another problem that I believe that I am going to run into now. Just thinking about it I have no measurements of the amount of material that was cut out here. And since the splashwell was cut into I have not Idea what height to make the transom boards. If I had to guess it is about 1/2" of material.

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

if you go 3/4" on the floor and it was 1/2" then minus 1/4" of the stringers as the cap rests on the floor so that measurement needs to be close to original.

trim tabs are used by bassboats to assist with getting on plane faster especially with a large motor. i will try finding a good picture to show you what they are so you can see why reinforcement in the area they attach would be a good idea while you are in there.

the wood that goes around the hull on the inside top lip is to give the bumper rail something to screw into so it needs to be replaced if rotten but doesnt need to be any stronger than original.

when a bassboat is assembled they put a lot of wet pb near the top inside of the transom then they put the cap on so it squeezes in all the gaps between the transom and the cap this avoids air gaps that would crack when the motor bolts put pressure in this area so adding material to make up for the pb is not needed as you may be putting pb back in when you put the cap back on. make the transom the same size (easy to add 1/2" later than to try to remove 1/2").

 

[GT1000000]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

OK...couple of things...height of the transom...you can do as I did...make it taller than it needs to be...just give it a good coat of resin for now to seal it up on the top edge...later, when you are ready to make your final adjustments...you can just trim it as necessary and add some more resin with some shredded CSM...

If you look back in my thread...you'll see how I am going to take care of the stern eyes...here's a link... http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=521706&p=3726762&viewfull=1#post3726762, Post # 529

These are what trim tabs look like on a bass boat...

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

how important are trim tabs, I don't really use it for tournaments, but I might use it for skiing ever now and then. I like your idea on your stern eyes, I was just going to use more wood to reinforce them but I really like the aluminum.

I can't get out to the boat right now, do to the amazing amount of rain that we have all of sudden gotten.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

how important are trim tabs.

I have never used any and at this point in time I don't plan on it, I just use the tilt on the engine to make minute performance/handling changes...

I have heard and read that they help the boat perform better, get on plane quicker, sometimes save fuel, help balance the weight of the boat from one side to the other, and somewhat smooth out the ride...

Most of my boating is done in Florida canals and lakes...this old tub felt really smooth and fast enough for my purposes, so I can't justify the added expense at this time...but maybe as I become a more sophisticated boater in the future...who knows???

If I do decide to install them, I know my transom will be able to handle them...

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

one day you might want trim tabs im not going to say that you will or it will be usefull to have them. im just pointing out that a few pieces of 3/4 glassed in the correct place now will give you the option later. most of the original damadge to my boat was done when the former owner drilled the transom (not the wood but the fancy flared section in the back where theres a gap between the wood and the hull thats filled with foam. your boat looks like the flared sections on the rear are also filled with foam) a simple 2-3" wide strip of 3/4 ply glassed into the area when you are there will give you piece of mind if you ever decied you would like to try tabs and if you never try them the extra weight is not going to hurt.

i didnt add the extra wood so i can never have trim tabs with out risking cracking the fiberglass or causing a leak into a section that can not drain and the only real fix would require the cap to be removed.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Thanks for the info from both of you on the tabs. It may be something that I look into because my motor does not have tilt or trim on it. So I guess I may look into putting some wood down in the area.

I was able to get out and do some work on the boat today. Was very hot and humid and even ended up dehydrating myself.... I feel like I got a little bit done and everything was wet underneath the glass. This really puzzles me cause the whole thing was glassed on top and there werent any holes. My guess would be that the Bilge lines were leaking or something cause everything was very very wet. I will try to get some pics tomorrow, I am resting now As I dont feel well. Ooops

Also A couple things, I have got almost every piece of fiberglass up, just working on some of the ply now. But getting the wood loose from the transom with out doing damage, what would be the best route for me to take?

Couple notes of this from today: the stringer that goes up and connects to a board that runs accross the back of the transom was on the outside of the string was attached but not sure how, as it was all rotted away.

Also that same board that runs accross the back of the transom was just nailed to the pieces that were attached to the stringer and glassed to the the transom. I have no Idea what this boards purpose was as it does not look like it gives the hull any integrity at all.

The floor just sit on the glass on the outside edges, there are no stingers all the way out there. That may make it much easier to get the floor to the right height, as measuring the stringers will not be very difficult now.

Tools that were very helpful, a scrapper attached to my sawzaw was used the most once the fiberglass was up. I think it is really going to help when removing all of the foam from the side of the boat also.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

First of all, prepare for preventing dehydration by hydrating yourself well in advance of needing it...in other word...start drinking lots of water the day before you plan on being in the heat, and keep drinking water every so often, whether you feel you need it or not...dehydration can very easily lead to death...don't mess around with it...you want to be around to enjoy the boat and your life!

That piece you are talking about that goes across is called a cross brace and it helps to distribute the forces of the engine throughout the hull...I strongly recommend you replace it. I even made mine wider than it originally as, in case I ever decide to re-power with a larger HP engine.

These two links show the cross brace and the supports I built for it...

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=521706&p=3777741&viewfull=1#post3777741

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=521706&p=3788366&viewfull=1#post3788366

The stringers that support the cross brace and the transom are known as Knee Stringers, they too, help to strengthen the hull and distribute the engines forces throughout the hull. I also made my new ones larger than the originals. Same reason.

This post shows the Knee Stringers...

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=521706&p=3749055&viewfull=1#post3749055

Most of the decks are built just that way, they are just glassed to hull on the edges...

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

So should I try to make the knee stringers one piece, or should I do it like it was. Also I am still needing some assistance on how to get the Transom off the fiberglass without damaging anything.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

So should I try to make the knee stringers one piece, or should I do it like it was.

1 pc of plywood wrapped in glass will typically be stronger then multiple pcs, fastened together, esp if it involves a change in direction, and wrapped. But the glass is doing most of the work.... Here's another shot of GT's 1pc knee brace stringer:

If he'd made it in 2 pcs, a long straight pc then added the vertical part, he'd need to overlap the 2pcs of ply, and make sure the joint was eased on both sides so that the glass could conform to it, or do PB fillets, etc

Does that ^^^ make sense?

Also I am still needing some assistance on how to get the Transom off the fiberglass without damaging anything.

I'm guessing you mean the rest of the wooden transom that is still 'stuck' to the exterior transom fiberglass skin? Use a grinder w/ a flap disc:

Just to knock down the bits & pcs of wood still clinging, and then to scuff the existing glass to prep for PB & new transom wood.....

 

[GT1000000]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

You can do the knee stringers in sections... I don't have any exact description as to how to do it, but I would imagine that you could layer them the exact same way they were done originally...I don't know if the factory glued the pieces together, but I would...Use Titebond III or Gorilla Glue...PL Premium can also be used, it just takes at least 72 hours to fully cure...

As far as removing the old transom from the outer skin...well, the worst possible way, would be to grind it down all the way to the skin...

The next best approach might be to try and separate the layers of plywood, one by one, until you get to the last one, then grind...

The best way I can think of is to try and slowly, patiently and carefully, start driving wedges between the outer skin and the wood...use chisels, wonder bars, thin metal, whatever...and work your way into it...hopefully the bond between the two will eventually give way, and you can free it...maybe also use a sawzall with a short blade to start with and as you get deeper, go witha longer blade...remember that power tools will tend to cut through the outer layer before you know...even though it can all be fixed in the end...another possibility is to set the depth of a skilsaw/circular saw to where it just cuts part of the way into the wood and make a series of shallow cuts, then chisel the pieces off...also remember to be extremely careful with power tools, as they can get out of hand real easy and cause you some very serious physical damage...

Sorry I don't have any better methods off the top of my head...mine was mulch and pretty much just fell off...

I hope some of this works for you...

Best of luck...

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Wait, just as I posted that, I remembered, your existing wooden transom is fairly well stuck. Not transom mulch, correct?

Carefully run a 6"-12" sawzall blade down into the wood, 1/4"-3/8" from the exterior skin. That gives you a little room for error, and hopefully prevents a cut thru in the fiberglass... Careful use of a chisel & pry bars. You do not want to stress the existing fiberglass too much when prying, it might crack the glass...

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

You can do the knee stringers in sections... I hope some of this works for you... Best of luck...

Seems we are reading from the same book

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

if the transom is solid then a circular saw might be the easiest way. set the blade depth so it doesnt cut the hull then cut back and forth to weaken the wood then pry/chisel it out in pieces. if its realy stuck work in the last glue joint of the ply wood as that layer can be ground off and the glue joint will be weaker than the resin they bedded the transom in with. this is another job that will require you to work on the fly as it realy depends what condition it is in.
the knee depends on what material you decied to go with on the stringers.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Seems we are reading from the same book

On the same page even...

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Lol, you guys are great and you are correct, it is solid really it is the only thing left that is I think. I get what you guys are saying, I was trying to get it off in one piece as much as possible to re use it as a template. I think my worry is that I am trying to make to much like factory. When I can make a whole new one and probably make it stronger. I hope it floats when I'm done is my biggest thing since I've never done this before. I will let you know how the progress goes in a couple hours

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Well I got the transom off. Was not as bad as I thought, However I was not able to get it off in one piece. That's alright I will figure it out. I was actually pretty amazed at how easy it was was just time consuming. I had to make sure that all sides had no connecting pieces of FG left I made cuts 6" apart all the way across the transom. Then I made one long cut across the bottom of the cuts. Jammed my 48" breaker bar down and broke everything loose. End result was this.

Obviously there is cleanup still to do but got it mostly off.

Here is how the stringers are layed out.

And I very easily saw how I cut through the hull the very first day I started trying to take out the floor: Everything just sits on the outside of the hull was not expecting that.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Wow, that may be the best factory foam job I've seen posted. Every cavity looks totally filled, and the gunwale was evenly sprayed w/ foam too, so it's gonna be well stuck... Sorry to see actually, that will probably make it somewhat more difficult to remove.

If you don't have to, I might leave the gunwale foam. Evenly mark a line up a few inches above the original deck height. Just so you can tab in the deck, and only remove the foam from that level & down.

Nice job on getting 90+% of the transom wood out.

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

you can cut straight edges on the pieces you tore out then get some friends to hold them where they were and screw some scrap wood across the part thats missing if you are concerned about the pattern or use cardboard to make a template. grats on getting the old one out.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Thanks guys again for all your help.

I also said when I took the cap off, Thats gonna suck to redo. I like the idea of taking the first couple inches from the bottom off. I even thought about if I take it off I was not gonna put it back on. Every cavity is filled with foam, I started taking it out but figured there were other things that were more important to get taken care of first. It is all wet though I know that.

Do stringers have to made of plywood or can it be made of something else? My reason for asking how do I make a 15ft stringer with 8ft piece of Ply, I know that has to be a newb question sorry. My assumption is that I need to notch the two pieces glue them together. I am still aways away from doing those, just trying to get an Idea.