"Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

[jbcurt00]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Read thru GT's thread, he glued up 8' pcs of 3/8" plywood, staggering the joints 4' and made 20' stringers I think. Worked out extremely well.

If you PM him, he might give you a post # or a link to the stringer fabrication stage in his thread.

There are other ways to do it, using 3/4" plywood, but his is certainly easier then scarfing 3/4" plywood into longer lengths. Google:

Scarfing plywood

You'll get lots of youtube & woodworking hits

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

I think I read that part of his thread, but when I was reading it I was having a hard time following it. Mostly because I have not been that far into my own boat. I may go over and re read everything as it is all starting to make more sense the more I tear it apart.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

PM GT if you have questions.

Roughly what's the max stringer height anywhere in your hull? 12" +/- ??

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Im thinking at most 10", I think its closer to 8 " though. Now that does not include the Knee part of it however. I know that it needs to be 7 1/2" below the top of the transom So if I were to take a guess I would say that part would need to be around 12". I am at work and have not the measurements with me. I did those a couple weeks ago.

I'm gonna save my pm's till I really need them, cause I know there will be times when I really need help and I have wasted all of my PM a friends on stupid stuff. So Hopefully I don't get to that point. I need to get back home and look at some things though. Ahhhhh I hate working. Wish I was rich....LOL

 

[GT1000000]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Hi ss,

Here is the best explanation I can come up with to make a 2 foot wide by 16 foot long stringer Blank...you can get at least the two knee stringers and probably 2-4 more stringers out of this piece if you do your layouts correctly...

Start with 2 sheets of 3/8" thick by 4 foot by 8 foot AC fir plywood...if you can get it arauco ply will work too...marine grade is too expensive...IMHO...

OK, cut both sheets at 2 foot wide by 8 feet long...this will yield 4 pieces of 3/8 ply that are 2' X 8'...

Then, using ONLY one of the 4 pieces, cut it across to get 2 pieces that will be 3/8" x 2' x 4'...you now have 5 pieces of plywood...2 each @ 3/8"x2'x4' + 3 each @ 3/8"x2'x4'

Using Titebond III or Gorilla Glue or even PL Premium, and a 1/8" or 1/4" notched trowel, completely coat ONE of the 2'x4' pcs....then do the same to half of one of the 2'x 8' pcs...

Keep doing the above, flipping and gluing and clamping until you end up with a 16 foot long by 2 foot wide by 3/4" thick stringer blank...you will use the second piece that is 3/8"x2'x4' as the last piece...

If you want to make a longer blank, just add another sheet of 3/8"x2'x8', that will get you a 20 foot long blank...etc...etc...

I don't know if this clears it up for you...if it doesn't let me know...

You can also "scarf" or "scab" the stringers to make longer ones...like JC said, you can look those up on the net...

I just did it this way because it seemed like the strongest possible way to make long stringers...I end up with 4ft. long overlap lamination, instead of shorter joints that you would get from the other two methods...

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

Re: How would you recommend starting stringer Replacement

That makes plenty of sense thanks very much. Is there a problem with the resin socking in. I mean that would be a lot of glue to get through. Once I do this I just want it to last longer then I own it. Really as long as it allows me to catch the record flathead catfish for Kansas I'm good.

When am I ok to flip the hull, and how the hell do I do that? I tried to pick it up and its pretty close to empty and it still feels like it weighs a ton. Do I wait until the stringers and transom are in? then flip or should I just wait for everything to be put together, and do it a section at a time moving my braces forward and back?

 

[GT1000000]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Not sure what you mean by the resin soaking in...the glue is only to mate the pieces...similar to what the factory did to make the plywood laminations...wood+glue+wood+glue+wood=plywood...

The resin is going to be applied to the outer surface of the wood, and other than what most people think, it isn't going to "soak" into the wood much more than a few thousandths or hundredths of an inch...

To flip the boat, you can do it a couple of different ways...use engine hoists, gantries, people power, roll it over, whatever...look through some of the builds, and you'll see how its been done...

You just have to make sure it is properly supported so flipping it doesn't cause any damage...

Here's a link to see the temporary frame I threw together for my flip... http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=521706&p=3789621&viewfull=1#post3789621

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Since you need to do transom work any way, I'd at least put the transom in 1st pre-flip. If you think you can still flip it over w/ the new stringers installed & at least tabbed, fully glassed would be better IMHO, but having the stringers installed will make it heavier, but more rigid.

The transom installed is also a great attachment point for flipping the boat. Someone also recently posted that they were able to use a large bolt, some washers & a large diameter pulley wheel all thru bolted in the drain plug hole. Then rigged a rope from 1 of their gantries, that were used to lift the cap off, around the wheel. The pulley wheel let the hull slowly flip over. Sounded like it worked great...

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

"Is there a problem with the resin socking in. I mean that would be a lot of glue to get through."

the glue wont matter as the piece will be cut after its fabricated together so any glue that has been pushed out on to the edge will be trimmed off or can be sanded before you coat in resin. the resin does not soak in as such but will penertrate maybe a 1/16 so it will not be affected by the glue.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Thanks guys and sorry on the glue issue. I just kept reading about everyone coating I am resin and I guess I was not understanding the process. I am still way ahead of myself as I still need to remove the foam and get. The old stringers out. Maybe we will be closer this weekend

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Weekend Update: Had a Good weather weekend unfortunately was unable to take full advantage of it. Got a little bit done. I got all the foam out, at least the big chunks, the rest will be grinded out. I got the two inside stringers gutted, I left the fiberglass just to give me an idea of where they go for mock up. I was unable to get the middle ones out, they are not quite rotted like the middle was. The outside stringers still have some fiberglass over the top so I can not see what they are but they are double the width of the other stringers.

Which brings me to todays question: I think the width is the size of a 2x4, if it is can I cut one to the right height and length? I have a planer that would really help with trying to get the perfect height. I have only every seen plywood talk for stringers. Is this possible, and here is a pic of what I am talking about kinda hard to see but gives the point I think.

In this pic you can only see the outside and the middle stringer should be able to see the width difference a little better

Here are just some random pics

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

what was the original stringers made off and what do they measure? is there a reason you are gutting the stringers? if you plan to replace them its easier to chisel or grind the glass and pull them off. i use a chisel as its fast with less mess and it can get in all the gaps that a grinder tends to jam in. just gently tap the chisel and move all the way down the sides (be carefull so the chisel will not dig into the hull and dont sit on the stringers while doing this....use a scrap of wood as a seat)

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Really it was just to have something to do, the inside stringer looks to be made of a 1x6 of something I will take a pic of it tomorrow. The middle stringer is plywood, heavy duty at that, its in pretty good shape. The outside stringer I have no idea I need to get the top layer off to see I will start that tomorrow. I am hoping to have all of the stringers completely out tomorrow.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Spent some time on the boat last night, I did not have a lot of time so I decided to do what I felt was going to feel like I got the most done. I started with the stringers I got the inside and middle completely out and I think I even saved enough middle stinger to make an exact template. Well see though.

I was also able to find out what the outside stringer was, it is 2 pieces of 3/4 ply together. Was not expecting that. I will probably clean off the top of them and leave them because they are the only thing that was completely covered in fiberglass and are solid. Plus I have no Idea how I am going to get them out. But I Have not decided yet. I am sure once I start fully grinding the hull they will end up coming out. Here is a pic

Here is the stringers out and now I just need to ground down to the hull. I am going to redo some measurements to make sure that I have everything exact. But I am also thinking of changing the middle compartment (ski locker) I want it to hold my rods instead and it is not long enough.still not sure on this yet though. I really dont want a locker at all to risk more water damage but I think that once Im done this should be a non issue anyways.

Also those little rib things are completely empty nothing in them, I cut one end off and then cut the end off on the other end, and shined a light through and there is nothing blocking the light at all.

Next thing I did was grind away the foam on the gunwale. I looked like god pee'd on the snow as it was falling, you know we all hate yellow snow. I did not get a pic of it cause I thought it was pointless put it sure was a mess. Anyway I put a 4 1/2" flap wheel on the grinder and this seems to work the fastest and easiest.

So today I figured I will go to HD to get price on Plywood since I think I will be ready for it next week, well thats not going to happen cause HD Lowes, Sutherlands No one carries 3/8 ac fur, actually no one carries any ac fur. HD told me they could not even order it. Is this because I am in the midwest and we don't need boats? HD does carry a BC pine. Will this work, however they only carry it in everything above 1/2". There is a guy that is selling marine Ply for $50 on craigslist I think it is 3/4 is that worth the price.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Update, Last weekend I was able to get everything completely ground down, everything is out of the boat that is coming out. I am having some problems getting some of the sprayed foam off the sides, Will that go away when I clean the boat down with Acetone?

Also It appears that the boat is very flimsy now. Is it possible that I ground to much out of the boat. The sides I am extreemly worried about. I do not have pictures right now but will tomorrow. Also there are at least 4 places that I managed to cut through the hull or grind through to much. Some insight on the best way to fix those would be cool also. I am assuming that I fill them with PB then Lay glass over it. I know pictures are helpful. I will update in the morning.

I also was able to build my new paint booth... I am sure the neighbors love it. It's 30X40. Had to be this big to fit the trailer. I will post pics of it tomorrow also.....It might make you laugh also.

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

the hull will be real week and flexable at the moment which is why we had you build the frame in the beginning to add surport and to keep the shape. any spots that seem thin will need to be feathered then built back with glass. you can add a extra layer/strip of glass on the area where the hull meets the sides if you are worried about the hull strenth.
most of the bottom of the hull will get a extra layer of glass as the stringers/ribs are glassed back into the hull.
looking good so far

 

[GT1000000]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Update, Last weekend I was able to get everything completely ground down, everything is out of the boat that is coming out. I am having some problems getting some of the sprayed foam off the sides, Will that go away when I clean the boat down with Acetone?

Great felling getting all that done...
Nope, same as the other foam...scrape, gouge, tear, grind...whatever physical exertion it takes to remove...:redface:...or if it is great shape and won't be in your way, you could leave it...

Also It appears that the boat is very flimsy now. Is it possible that I ground to much out of the boat. The sides I am extreemly worried about. I do not have pictures right now but will tomorrow. Also there are at least 4 places that I managed to cut through the hull or grind through to much. Some insight on the best way to fix those would be cool also. I am assuming that I fill them with PB then Lay glass over it. I know pictures are helpful. I will update in the morning.

Glass boats are that flimsy without all of the internal structure...
Glenn is correct, that's what the external support structure is for, plus you may need to add a little here and there...

Cut through, OMG...cut through...:facepalm:...only 4 places...heck..., I sliced and diced my way through the hull like, I don't know, maybe 10 times...no worries...it's all fixable with PB, CSM & 1708...we'll get you there...

I also was able to build my new paint booth... I am sure the neighbors love it. It's 30X40. Had to be this big to fit the trailer. I will post pics of it tomorrow also.....It might make you laugh also.

It probably looks a million times better than my Big Blue Elephant...

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

I always though that a bass boat had a simple construction. that thing has got alot of wood in it. Looks like you are making progress.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

I always though that a bass boat had a simple construction. that thing has got alot of wood in it. Looks like you are making progress.

Thats what I thought, that is why I bought a bass boat first thought it would a little more simple then the rest. My god if this is easy, then I would hate to be where some of you guys have been.

Well I want to rebuild my support and I was wanting to flip the boat in order to make it perfect. However I'm afraid that if I flip it its just going to break. I need to get some supplies and start putting it together then. I just have to figure out how much glass and resin I need.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Well a couple question and a couple photos. So here is the only pic that I have thats new its raining today so I could not take any pics. This is from the other day. The Blue Lagoon Paint booth is her name. Wife, lets say not real happy about it, but I can take it down when its not in use so shes kinda ok with it.

It will help me with the spraying that I am going to be doing. I started on the trailer with the electric sprayer that I bought, holy cow, I was amazed at how quick it sprayed the areas and so perfect.

Ok so I am wondering if I can do this. Or if I should do it another way. In the picture the red represents the PB that I would use to fill in the gap between the stringer and the raised edge., The grey is the Fiberglass to wrap the stringer. Obviously I would be doing this the entire length of the stringer. The other option would be to place the stringer up against the raised edge and not even worry about the gap but I dont think I can do that because of the angle in the front.

and the original pic