Outboard smashed into rocks, help plz

[urbanredneck]

Motor: 87 40hp Evinrude E40ELCUD

long story short. Was out catfishing at night, wasnt paying attention, drifted off GPS course only by a few feet and came slamming into 6 inches of water going roughly 25 mph. Broke a nice chunk of skeg off, prop is beat

Next morning, starts up, give it full rpm , didnt move an inch. Limped back to the dock via trolling motor.

So of course I'm thinking slipped hub at minimum. Removed it, looks ok. Wanted to see if shaft would spin without load. Try to turn it over, but it doesn't. Starter bendix pops up, but the flywheel won't budge. This seems odd as previously it would turn over and run, just 0 power. Now she's in the garage and im scratching my head.

Any tips? Things to check in order of most likely failure? Opinions? Thank you

 

[kbait]

Remove gearcase is step one. Powerhead will likely turn freely then, and you can concentrate on gearcase.

 

[urbanredneck]

Remove gearcase is step one. Powerhead will likely turn freely then, and you can concentrate on gearcase.

And what would i be looking for? If I recall, taking off the lower unit just gives a view of the impeller, driveshaft.etc? Gears are actually housed within the gear oil which i thought was sealed other than service plugs.

Thank you for the reply. You or anyone have an idea what could've went? Or why i was able to start it after the incident and now flywheel is stuck and won't even attempt to crank over?

 

[hardwater fisherman]

He suggested to remove the lower unit because there is a good chance that it is locked up inside. And if so it would prevent the motor from turning.

 

[Tim Frank]

Diagnosing from a distance is really tough,
Step one in the troubleshooting process was provided in post #2.

Q ~ Is my power head somehow messed up or is it the lower unit ....the one that hit the rock at high speed?

A ~ Separate them and you will know.

The next steps will follow from hat.

 

[urbanredneck]

Diagnosing from a distance is really tough,
Step one in the troubleshooting process was provided in post #2.

Q ~ Is my power head somehow messed up or is it the lower unit ....the one that hit the rock at high speed?

A ~ Separate them and you will know.

The next steps will follow from hat.

Yeah, I get that. I know how to remove a lower unit. But telling someone just to remove the lower unit and nothing further doesn't help that much. Thought there would be a specific reason the flywheel decided to lock up actual facts. But, I'll pull the lower unit and look around I guess

 

[kbait]

Ok.actual facts:
Flywheel is connected to crankshaft. Crankshaft is connected to driveshaft. Driveshaft is connected to pinion gear in gearcase. Pinion gear is in constant contact with forward/reverse gears. Therefore rotating flywheel spins all gears in gearcase. Further, you can remove gearcase to discern what is stuck..powerhead, or gearcase. Then you will have performed step one. Perform that step and report back.

 

[flyingscott]

Your lower unit is not known to be a robust unit. More than likely you broke something in there and that locked up the driveshaft which in turn locked up the powerhead. So when you remove the lower unit the flywheel should free up and turn. If the flywheel does not turn after the lower is taken off problem is in the powerhead.

 

[MTboatguy]

In These situations you always pull the lower to help diagnose where the probably actually is, more that likely you bent or broke something in the lower unit that is jammed and preventing anything from turning. These are interconnected systems, if any of the system stop turning then most of the time all of them stop turning, you are probably going to need to either get a new lower or replace parts and rebuild your lower unit.

 

[urbanredneck]

My bad, my last reply meant to say the flywheel locking up after the fact, not actual facts. Didn't want to sound demanding. But thank you for everyone that has replied, it has given me a bit more info to dig into it. Just curious though, if I were to have busted a gear or split off a tooth, will I be able to see that from pulling the lower unit or is it all in case in the so-called "bullet"shaped part of the lower? Thank you again

 

[Tim Frank]

Yeah, I get that. I know how to remove a lower unit. But telling someone just to remove the lower unit and nothing further doesn't help that much.

Sure it does. It starts the troubleshooting process....correctly.
We could have suggested that you take the head off, but that would be putting your shoes on and then trying to put your socks on afterwards.... ....and might be totally unnecessary.
Until you remove the LU, everything else would be just a guess.

Thought there would be a specific reason the flywheel decided to lock up actual facts. But, I'll pull the lower unit and look around I guess

The recommendation was "Remove gearcase is step one. Powerhead will likely turn freely then, and you can concentrate on gearcase." You will never get clearer or better advice.
The point is, it is NOT the flywheel that is locked. Something between the prop and flywheel has locked the entire motor. Based on your description of events, it is most likely a gearcase issue....but not guaranteed.

At this point though, that is unclear. Remove the LU and see what happens. We are all prepared to help from there. Hope for a gearcase problem....they are usually more straight forward than a seized powerhead.

I guess a better question since you do not seem to appreciate our advice is "what do YOU think you should do?"

 

[Tim Frank]

My bad, my last reply meant to say the flywheel locking up after the fact, not actual facts. Didn't want to sound demanding. But thank you for everyone that has replied, it has given me a bit more info to dig into it. Just curious though, if I were to have busted a gear or split off a tooth, will I be able to see that from pulling the lower unit or is it all in case in the so-called "bullet"shaped part of the lower? Thank you again

If removing the LU frees up the powerhead, you will have to open up the LU to find the cause.
Usually there is not much doubt when you get it apart. Sounds like something broke up and has jammed.

But....the power head has not been ruled out....yet.

 

[urbanredneck]

I guess a better question since you do not seem to appreciate our advice is "what do YOU think you should do?"

Never said that. I appreciate everyone very much, as as stated. I just thought that "pull the lower unit" was a bit vague. Felt like if i were to tell someone to pull their transmission and just look at it.


Anyways. Started the process last night. Freed all my bolts, tapped it with a rubber mallet and a piece of metal that makes up the cavitation "ring" straight broke off. Good lord. But, its free now but still dangling. Guessing its the shift shaft rod, but cant see it. Lower only dropped about half an inch once freed

 

[flyingscott]

Never said that. I appreciate everyone very much, as as stated. I just thought that "pull the lower unit" was a bit vague. Felt like if i were to tell someone to pull their transmission and just look at it.


Anyways. Started the process last night. Freed all my bolts, tapped it with a rubber mallet and a piece of metal that makes up the cavitation "ring" straight broke off. Good lord. But, its free now but still dangling. Guessing its the shift shaft rod, but cant see it. Lower only dropped about half an inch once freed

I think its behind the carbs on that motor.

 

[jakedaawg]

Take off the port side cowel. 3/8" inch swivel socket and extension helps. Use same to remove pin from linkage under bottom carb. You should be looking from under the starter and below the VRO to see it. Dont loose that pin bolt (shoulder cap screw). Not super easy to come by extras.

 

[urbanredneck]

Take off the port side cowel. 3/8" inch swivel socket and extension helps. Use same to remove pin from linkage under bottom carb. You should be looking from under the starter and below the VRO to see it. Dont loose that pin bolt (shoulder cap screw). Not super easy to come by extras.

Thank you!! + flyingscott

typically the shift Rod linkage release is accessible from the lower unit on models I have worked with in the past. I spent some time looking for it, taking off Things. So, again I appreciate it thank you


one more thing, if I am releasing the shift rod from the top of the motor by the power head, that whole whatever 3, 4 foot section needs to come out with the lower unit, correct? In that case, I would want to have her tilted all the way up, or removed from the boat and laid on its side all together, no?

 

[racerone]

What ??----On an 87 there is no port side cowling.-----You remove the starter for easy access to the shift rod pin !!----Motor tilted all the way up and it slides off.----No need to take motor off the boat !!

 

[jakedaawg]

Shift rod is no longer than the vertical shaft that comes out with it. Yes, tilt the motor.

as far as removing the lower cowl, I work on a jillion of these and cant always remember what years they made the cowl removable easily. I was thinking mid 80's with the advent of the VRO. seems like I only take care of a couple of those really old ones now maybe. Maybe it was 89 year. !!!----sorry for being wrong???-----!!!!

 

[flyingscott]

Shift rod is no longer than the vertical shaft that comes out with it. Yes, tilt the motor.

as far as removing the lower cowl, I work on a jillion of these and cant always remember what years they made the cowl removable easily. I was thinking mid 80's with the advent of the VRO. seems like I only take care of a couple of those really old ones now maybe. Maybe it was 89 year. !!!----sorry for being wrong???-----!!!!

You are doing fine I am pretty sure Racer lives in a Giant outboard manual.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Drain the fluid and you will likely see metal bits and bobs coming out if its your LU. Everyone here is betting it is which is wishing you the best outcome instead of the powerhead