Re: Sportcraft tri-hull rebuild
Resin w/out glass is brittle & will fatigue & crack over time, even under carpet, IMHO.
I would coat the deck pieces w/ resin only & all it to tack off (NOT long, not dry, just to the tacky stage, 30-45 min) then apply additional resin & CSM (1st CSM layer) to all the parts & pieces (top, bottom & all edges) of the deck PRIOR to installing them in the boat.
Once installed, scuff the deck along the edges, fill the deck/hull joint w/ PB & smooth to a fillet. Tab the deck to the hull w/ 1708, several inches up onto the hull & out on the deck. Cover the deck w/ CSM twice(2nd & 3rd CSM layers), each layer rolling up onto the hull a couple inches past the previous layer.
As noted in WOG's deck, stringer & transom details:
"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"
If you wanted to strengthen the deck further, you could apply 1708 between the layers of CSM.
Then once you're ready to install the seats, you can install CSM wrapped plywood bases to the covered deck, and CSM, 1708 & CSM them to the deck. This keeps any fasteners you use to attach the seats isolated in a separate piece of plywood, which helps keep water from reaching below deck. Should you ever need to replace it, you would likely only have the seat bases to remove & replace, and NOT worry that you need to open the deck & check for water damage below. This works for both back to back seats or pedestal seats. WOG & Friscoboater both have great seat bases done similarly, but w/ different styles of plywood base..
If height is a problem, like my FireFlite (from top of deck to bottom of seat I only have about 5inches or I'll start hitting my knees or legs on the steering wheel. I'll be reinforcing the deck under my pedestal seats by placing an additional pc of 3/4" on the backside of (under) the deck and using another 3/4" pc on the top of my deck. This will leave me w/ a firm attachment point for the pedestal, and I can likely modify a 6-7" tall base to be @ 4.5-5" tall. This will make my seat base @ 3/4" higher then ideal, but is an acceptable compromise for me....
Of course, this is all ^^^ if you're using poly resin, as WOG mentions.....
