1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

Were these guys 1 of the choices? Someone @iboats recommended them........

 

[sprintst]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

Man you really got after that thing. Nice to see no pour in foam as that was a real pain to remove. The contact cement is a pain to remove. In the end I think I used acetone to soften it up then took a stainless brush and/or razor blades to remove it but it took longer than I thought. MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) will eat it up and make it waaay easier to remove but it's bad stuff so wear a mask.

My tank is an 18 gallon tank under the jump seat just to the left of the engine which works. I thought of the under deck tank at the time of the rebuild but I wanted to get on the water quick...which didn't happen

 

[third times the charm]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

Were these guys 1 of the choices? Someone @iboats recommended them........

Can't remember, I don't think it was. I will check with those guys. Well I got one quote back this morning, 420 bucks and only 15 gal.:facepalm:

The one last night I found as noted in my previous post was cal at 22 gal for 320 bucks. I will have double check my measurements and have it re-quoted. I might create some fudge room, not sure yet.

 

[third times the charm]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

Man you really got after that thing. Nice to see no pour in foam as that was a real pain to remove. The contact cement is a pain to remove. In the end I think I used acetone to soften it up then took a stainless brush and/or razor blades to remove it but it took longer than I thought. MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) will eat it up and make it waaay easier to remove but it's bad stuff so wear a mask.

My tank is an 18 gallon tank under the jump seat just to the left of the engine which works. I thought of the under deck tank at the time of the rebuild but I wanted to get on the water quick...which didn't happen

Thanks Sprintst, yeah I got motivated. Figured I would get this far on it so I could have some inside work to do and outside work since I have no garage to work in. The cap and gunwales I put in my basement so i can refinish them on bad weather days. As far as my tank is concerned I will have to play with the ideas, I'm not set on any one style or configuration. I've got time on my side. I want to do it right the first time and the funding of the project will keep me paced. Came across a setup on cl last night, a alpha one outdrive and 3.0merc for 350 bucks. Drive is complete with inner plate and the motor is the matched set up. Really thinking hard about that one. motor was running when pulled, but the drive is worth that price alone

 

[sprintst]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

Sounds like a great deal barring any big surprises. If you've got the time you can go through it from top to bottom. I was looking at the original engine pics late last night and it looks like a GM HEI distributor on there... I'd double check but it's probably not spark shielded the same as a marine part. The cl setup will probably have one anyway so another potential savings

 

[third times the charm]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

Sounds like a great deal barring any big surprises. If you've got the time you can go through it from top to bottom. I was looking at the original engine pics late last night and it looks like a GM HEI distributor on there... I'd double check but it's probably not spark shielded the same as a marine part. The cl setup will probably have one anyway so another potential savings

Yes, it's a gm hei. That would explain some running issues I had 2 years ago. It had problems at high rpm, it would bog down. Of course it could have been a hundred other things also. At that time I wasn't too worried about it. I have already been pricing a ignition upgrade from summit anyway.

Been working on a idea from my floor structure. I like what everyone else has done to reinforce the structure. But the cost of the alum tube is pricy. I'm on a commerical worksite today and realized the answer has been staring me in the face:doh: steel studs., they are galvanized, I know they are stored outside in the weather. So being under a deck shouldn't be much worse and best of all they are cheap and would create a he// of a substructure. I will work on a mock up of my design idea.

 

[third times the charm]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

Okay here's my engineered design What's the consensus of the group, please be honest lol

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

I don't think you want to use galvanized steel studs in an aluminum boat. For the same reason you don't use galv bolts for the tow eyes & motor thru bolts: Galvanic corrosion.

 

[third times the charm]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

I don't think you want to use galvanized steel studs in an aluminum boat. For the same reason you don't use galv bolts for the tow eyes & motor thru bolts: Galvanic corrosion.

Damn, yep your right jbcurt. Forgot about that slight problem. Well, back to the drawing board I guess

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

T3C - what are you looking to do with the floor? The original method isn't strong enough?

 

[third times the charm]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

T3C - what are you looking to do with the floor? The original method isn't strong enough?

Just would like to make better, 3 kids bouncing around. :fear: The two stringers running down each side just bother me a bit. They do make alum stud, so I will look into that. Just looking to overdo what is they, improve on the original design.:bounce:

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

3/4" Plywood is as solid as you can get. With the two stringers and the floor tied to each rib makes an incredibly strong floor. You can try, but you probably won't improve the design. IMHO.

 

[sprintst]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

I did mine in 3/4 and with two teenage boys and myself onboard there is no flex whatsoever. Worst case I'd do 5/8 as there was major flex in the original 1/2 ".

Double check the rivets holding the stringers to the ribs and make sure the end of each sheet is tied together with the alum strip and you'll have a solid floor.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

Same thing here, Sprinter. My original was 1/2 and it flexed. Put in 5/8 and it's a rock. 3/4 in my case would have been overkill since it's usually just me and I'm old and move slow. :lol:

 

[sprintst]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

Unless of course you are looking for an extra bit of bounce action on the floor with your new woman you will be taking out on the boat. Just sayin'

 

[third times the charm]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

Unless of course you are looking for an extra bit of bounce action on the floor with your new woman you will be taking out on the boat. Just sayin'

:rofl: Maybe I need to get the glasser fixed. Okay I will take the advice then, I guess I'm being paranoid.

 

[third times the charm]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

Hey jbcutoo, wanted to thank you for the link. Just sent them a design to quote for me. And best of all their site gives a chance to configure my size to how many gal I want , or how many gal my tank will be.

Well I have decided to reinforce my floor framing despite the general consensus here, lol. Priced the alum tube today, not bad at 100 bucks per 40 feet of 1x1x 1/8. Well worth the money in my eyes. Never know, might find a new women by next summer. Lol

 

[sprintst]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

Everyone says we need to use our boats. No one ever said how

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

Well worth the money in my eyes. Never know, might find new women by next summer. Lol

Sounds like you might need to move to Utah :watermelon:

You're welcome, like I said, someone else found the gas tank lead, just passing the info along. Looks like a great place to design & adjust the design to meet capacity specs &/or space limitations. No matter who you use, if ya have a custom tank made, post details after you get the final product mounted & how the manufacturer was to work w/ (timely, communication, quality, fit & finish, etc) and if you get your money's worth.

I priced an apparently now discontinued bow tank by Moeller, sort of odd pie shape, 19gal, expensive $200+ ship. Evil-bay had 1 and although much more expensive then a low cost donor boat tank, it fit's how & where I intend to put it. And new, no rehab needed, so worth it to me.

 

[third times the charm]

Re: 1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

Sounds like you might need to move to Utah :watermelon:

You're welcome, like I said, someone else found the gas tank lead, just passing the info along. Looks like a great place to design & adjust the design to meet capacity specs &/or space limitations. No matter who you use, if ya have a custom tank made, post details after you get the final product mounted & how the manufacturer was to work w/ (timely, communication, quality, fit & finish, etc) and if you get your money's worth.


I priced an apparently now discontinued bow tank by Moeller, sort of odd pie shape, 19gal, expensive $200+ ship. Evil-bay had 1 and although much more expensive then a low cost donor boat tank, it fit's how & where I intend to put it. And new, no rehab needed, so worth it to me.

I will post the info as soon as I order it. Got the price today, not bad for 465.00. 7 to 10 day lead time. Now just to squeeze the funds around a bit.

Utah:faint2: I will stay in kentucky, I just need a good ol kentucky girl, to keep me happy. She just has to like boat projects laying around the house. And tinnies.ride: