1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

Good idea, the only thing I don't like about it is, is that corner bead is metal covered with paper. I'd be worried about it rusting away, and causing issues.

Vinyl corner bead available in every state I've live in. That's for 35sticks 8' long. 1st 1 that came up w/ google.

If it's for channeling water along under the corner bead, novel & interesting approach that should work GREAT!

The pour in closed cell foam, probably won't 'let' water flow through it and into the holes & then draining into the channel, but it certainly is a good solution to a problem that has been tossed around many different ways.

 

[parrisw]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

Vinyl corner bead available in every state I've live in. That's for 35sticks 8' long. 1st 1 that came up w/ google.

If it's for channeling water along under the corner bead, novel & interesting approach that should work GREAT!

The pour in closed cell foam, probably won't 'let' water flow through it and into the holes & then draining into the channel, but it certainly is a good solution to a problem that has been tossed around many different ways.

If its the vinyl stuff he used then great! I'm just used to the metal stuff, and thought that's what it was.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

Hey Parris, you guys to the north have some trouble getting a few of the things that come up here. I thought maybe it wasn't avail in Canada is all. I never saw the vinyl stuff until I was out in Calif, now it seems to be everywhere.

 

[parrisw]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

Hey Parris, you guys to the north have some trouble getting a few of the things that come up here. I thought maybe it wasn't avail in Canada is all. I never saw the vinyl stuff until I was out in Calif, now it seems to be everywhere.

Ya ain't that the truth, you guys seem to get allot more products then we get. And cheaper beer too!!!!!!!! GRRRRRRRR

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

Ya ain't that the truth, you guys seem to get allot more products then we get. And cheaper beer too!!!!!!!! GRRRRRRRR

Yeah, but man the fishing! I've been to Long Lac, great fishing camps.

And now back to the 1976 Century show..........

 

[parrisw]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

Yeah, but man the fishing! I've been to Long Lac, great fishing camps.

And now back to the 1976 Century show..........

Ya lots of good fishing around here.

 

[jones01m]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

Thanks for the responses

Good idea, the only thing I don't like about it is, is that corner bead is metal covered with paper. I'd be worried about it rusting away, and causing issues.

It is definitely vinyl.

It's a great idea, but it looks like the foam is sealing the drain holes? Or do you just want the water to run in the covered drain channel? I also dig the dual pour concept. I'm thinking about doing all my foam before I install the deck, like Sleeper6's project log... Great build and boat brutha!

It is protruding through the holes, which is what my goal was. It may also be sealing them - this is where I struggled whether it was even necessary to put a drain. If the foam finally ends in some void I think it wil always have some sort of sealing effect at the boundary to the void. My observation when going through the demolition on my boat was that the foam seperated from the hull (probably from years of being whacked by the water beneath) and created a void where water could gather, then it had nowhere to go. If a gutter was there it could have been drained out. So, like you, I struggle between trusting that the closed cell foam will not let water in, and, if water did (somehow) get in do I want a place for it to drain.

Vinyl corner bead available in every state I've live in. That's for 35sticks 8' long. 1st 1 that came up w/ google.

If it's for channeling water along under the corner bead, novel & interesting approach that should work GREAT!

The pour in closed cell foam, probably won't 'let' water flow through it and into the holes & then draining into the channel, but it certainly is a good solution to a problem that has been tossed around many different ways.

It is definately for channeling the water along IF it gets in to begin with. I would love to hear someone tell me the drain is a waist of time altogether. I think there is a very good argument not to bother with it. Again, though, if the decision is made to use a drain and a void is created, there will always be the sealed boundary.

Thank you all for the comments.

Do you all (being from NC I suppose I should say "ya'll") think a drain is even necessary???

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

Ultimately, I think the necessary question falls to whether you think its necessary. If there was much evidence of water getting in & sitting in the bottom of the foam on the hull side, & you think it was before the deck started to rot, address the areas that you think are the cause of the water getting in & do your best to keep it from happening again. Tiny pin holes will draw in moist air & condense in even the smallest places & may never fully dry.

If it's not too expensive, nor too time consuming & you have room in the I/O engine bilge for a pump, it certainly isn't w/out merit to install weep channels, and a way for the channeled water to be pumped. And as ways to achieve water channeling, this is one of the best I've seen in my somewhat short time lurking on iBoats. It would certainly help, and w/ such a small cross section, I can't see a down side to making the channels.

Lots of boats have passages for water to make it's way back to a bilge pump, lots don't (mine doesn't) and I'd bet most boats get water below decks a lot more often then the owner would like or hope.....

When I get done w/ demo, I want to spend some time figuring if I can add a few weep channels through my all glass stringers (their hollow), and a small bilge & pump. I am a ways from that point. Since mine never was foam filled, I'll be using the sheet foam instead of pour in. Mostly that's about cost, I think I'd prefer the pour in: Reinforces the backside of the glass hull, add some rigidity, better sound deadening, and of course more protection for the 'Oh carp, I put a hole in the hull' and will still make it back to the dock/ramp.

 

[jones01m]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

What the heck, I'll put it in. I think the grand total is 7 bucks for 3 strips and about an hour of extra work. At worst, I am out only this. At best, I have created a place for unwanted water to drain. No brainer.

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

I just caught up on the thread. That is come some glass work, and I love the foam idea.

 

[jones01m]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

Thanks Friscoboater.

Stringers are all in now. This weekend I was out of town so no progress... bummer!!! But, I enjoyed the time I had with my wife much more!

The boat is full of tools and other scraps so I was a little embarrassed to take a picture. A little more work near the bow and some filleting and we should be looking at placing down some decking. Working on this once a week sure make the progress slow but I will never quit on her as she is always in the back of my mind.

 

[jones01m]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

I got all my drains in. I detailed this out in another thread, though in hindsight I should have just kept it all in one place. So, here is the process I used for the drains.

1) I ran a hole saw through my stringers prior to installing them and placed a 1.5" stub of 3/4 CPVC to drain in bilge. The 3/4" pipe fits a 5/8" plug very nice. Once glassed in and over it was easy to grind it out. It must be plugged with a bilge plug to prevent water from going in. An inlet was made to the bilge in both the bow and stern. I thought if I ever wanted to blow dehumidified air "through" I could as long as the drain sytem made a circuit.

2) A piece of drywall corner beading was laid in all the low areas and covered the bilge CPVC inlets. It was tacked in place with a couple of drops of hotmelt. The engine runners were a little higher than the main stringers so there is also a segment that connects the two - I have this in the photo. I used epoxy so you will not see glass wrapped around this particular hole, but there is certainly enough epoxy on it.

3) The key is timing and making two pours. When the 2 part foam was mixed I kept stirring until I could actually see the foam just start to expand. At that point the foam will transition to being really sticky so it must all be poured within a couple of seconds after expansion starts. This prevents the foam from going through the holes in a liquid state and does not clog the void you are trying to create. So, the beading is just covered in this pour, then the remaining cavity can be poured in as a liquid becuase your drainage void is already established with a hard foam cover.

Ground pipe that will drain to bilge and rest under the corner beading

Plug that will seal the drain off

Additionally, I made a little more progress on the stringers: they are all done. I just need to do some fillets and glass in the blige area. Then down with the deck.

Curved Transition in Bow

Shows port side drain. She is dying for some foam and deck.

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

Been following along for awhile now and just wanted to drop in say that this looks really good. I am big fan of the classic century boats. Look forward to seeing this one come together. Good luck and keep up the great work!

 

[jones01m]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

Thanks for the encouragement. A busy life makes the boat building slow, however she will get done. It seems that at this stage I can get out in the garage for a few hours and feel like I'm making progress. You get to the point where making a nice fillet and seeing that glass just lay down and soak up the resin feels pretty good.

 

[Trooper82]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

Not sure how I missed your thread.

Nice work you have been doing.

Will climb aboard so I can keep an eye on your progress.

Know what you mean about getting excited over the small things. The way I see it, they all add up to give you the final product.

Keep charging forward!

 

[jones01m]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

Trooper, thanks for the comments.
I checked out your thread too. Looks like your ready to glass in some stringers! We'll get to the end one day.

 

[jones01m]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

I made some templates last night after work.

The goal today is to get this ply cut and seal up the bottom side. I am using epoxy so the glass that wil go down is just a 4oz loose weave. Someone please chime in if you believe this is not adequate.

I am leaving the center ski locker section of the deck out for now so that I have good access for painting. This section will be all constructed prior to painting though, just not assembled.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

As long as the 4oz is epoxy compatible, it will be extremely sufficient. Epoxy is stronger then poly resin, and usually poly resin & 1.5oz CSM is used. So 4oz glass plus epoxy should be more then good.

 

[jones01m]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

jb, thanks for the response. That was pretty much my thought with the epoxy.

I accomplished my goal for the day. Easy task to transfer the pattern to the 1/2 deck ply, which is the Arauco brand that so many speak of in this forum. Since the bow in concave I screwed on a stiffener to pre-bend the plywood prior to glassing. The 4oz glass that was used wets out really easy with a squeegee. It was placed on dry and epoxy poured over it then I used a utility knife to trim off the overhung glass.

Some ribs were also added to the hull primary to be used as stiffeners beneath where captains chars might be installed - I haven't decided yet what kind of seating I will be using so these were just in case. Since they were easy enough to install I continued them up the bow to be used for additional nalers (screwers) for the deck. There are some plastice pieces at the end of each rib just to temporarily hold them in place.

Deck pre-bow

4oz woven glass

Glassed deck

Added ribs

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1976 Century Arabian - Mercruiser 888 - Boat Restoration

It all looks really good, just a Q:

The break between 2 adjacent sheets of floor deck fall on a rib you added?

And 2 things to consider:

Depending on which seats & or pedestal your using, you can double up the thickness of ply UNDER the deck, or lay a 2nd piece of ply on top of the deck (Friscoboater used the over method). I like the way Friscoboater's deck looked w/ the cut to fit carpet and the top layer of extra ply. Doubling it on top of the deck allows you to use T-nuts without having to make a firm seat decision now. Doubling it below w/ out a seat setup decided yet makes T-nuts impossible. But isn't a visible doubler.

A slight tab or ledge around the underside of the lip of the ski locker will help support the lid. Again reference Friscoboaters build.