1978 River Ox Restoration Project

[gatorfan6908]

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Well.. If I do the runs under the gunwales, the cables would have to make their way across the deck... seems like quite the tripping hazard to me. But if you know a way to do it, I would love to hear it.
Anyways, what you said about the j-pipe is a great idea! I can definitely find a way to fit that in! Honestly... I think that suggestion just solved the biggest problem I have encountered to date... other than the wiring of the electrical system itself. Thanks again for the help!

Lonnie

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Hi Gatorfan. Check the Top Secret file at the top of the forum for some great boat wiring How-to diagrams and stuff. Otherwise, it looks like she's coming right along. Keep us posted. Oh, and GO NOLES!!!!!!!! See ya in Nov. for the big game

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Well.. If I do the runs under the gunwales, the cables would have to make their way across the deck... seems like quite the tripping hazard to me. But if you know a way to do it, I would love to hear it.

Ooops!, I forgot this is a CC boat...then again...you might could do something similar to the inverted j-pipe...except instead of going to the back...have it go from the CC to the gunwale under the deck, then up to the underside of the gunwale...although it will prolly end up making for some really long runs...:redface:

Have Fun!

 

[gatorfan6908]

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Well... I am proud of what all got accomplished today. My Rays are beating the Sox 5-2 in the bottom of the 8th, and I also got the transom pieces cut out and roughed in. They fit extremely well with only a few spots I can question. One of which is in the below picture. The space in between the wood and the hull is very narrow. Not millimeter narrow, but perhaps a centimeter or two. The other side has a little more room to it. Should I try and remove a little from the one side to allow for more PB to fill in?

Here is a pic of the port side where there is more space.

And here are a few more pictures just for bragging rights... I have never done this before so at this point I have to take every little victory I can get...

Also... if you look at the above pic... what do you think is the best way to clean the gel coat here with all the grease and grime... I've thought about sanding, just curious as to what kind of sand paper would be best... Help is appreciated!!

 

[Trooper82]

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Great prograss GF...and any victory is a good one...every step, little or big is still part of the goal!

Not a pro, just a DIYer...I'd say 80 grit would work, just take it slow....wet cuts slower and isn't as aggressive....just my 2 cents...

 

[gatorfan6908]

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

I think the 80-grit may be too abrasive for the gel-coat. It will work great for smoothing out the edges of the transom wood, but for the gel coat I think something higher will do. But... thats why I leave it here to the experts to guide my hands.

 

[gatorfan6908]

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Ok... next brainstorming session brings up an old question I had with this boat... I would really enjoy being able to add in a tank underneath... but I am not sure about how the best way to do that would be. I suppose I would either hire someone to fabricate one or browse around for one that would fit. I checked the sizes of the plastic tanks here on iboats, but they are all too tall. I am working with about 6-7 inches on either side of the middle stringer... ideas? Words of advice? Anyone want to just tell me not to do it so I can quit thinking about it?

 

[Celtichawk]

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Gator
Where was the original gas tank mounted? You saying 6-7 inches from each stringer meaning if you bought one you could only get one of that width? Thinking you could fabricate a box shaped stringer system near rear of boat to acommadate fuel tank placement. If that makes any sense? I never restored a boat so no idea sorry If my two cents is worthless

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Well... I am proud of what all got accomplished today. My Rays are beating the Sox 5-2 in the bottom of the 8th, and I also got the transom pieces cut out and roughed in. They fit extremely well with only a few spots I can question. One of which is in the below picture. The space in between the wood and the hull is very narrow. Not millimeter narrow, but perhaps a centimeter or two. The other side has a little more room to it. Should I try and remove a little from the one side to allow for more PB to fill in?

Here is a pic of the port side where there is more space.

And here are a few more pictures just for bragging rights... I have never done this before so at this point I have to take every little victory I can get...


Also... if you look at the above pic... what do you think is the best way to clean the gel coat here with all the grease and grime... I've thought about sanding, just curious as to what kind of sand paper would be best... Help is appreciated!!

Transom fits good enough. No Worries from what I can see. To Clean the exterior of the transom, first thing I'd do is spray some acetone on it and scrub her down with a stiff bristle brush. Follow up with a acetone soaked rag. The R/O DRY sand with 120 Grit. You should be able to "See" some good results by then.

 

[gatorfan6908]

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Gator
Where was the original gas tank mounted? You saying 6-7 inches from each stringer meaning if you bought one you could only get one of that width? Thinking you could fabricate a box shaped stringer system near rear of boat to acommadate fuel tank placement. If that makes any sense? I never restored a boat so no idea sorry If my two cents is worthless

-Celtic, basically I would have only 6-7 inches of height on the tank itself... and unless I found one that height extremely long and narrow to run the lengths of the stringers, I would have to cut out nearly an entire section of the center stringer to fit it. Even then, after working in space with the cabling/wiring run, there won't be much to work with.

The fuel tank was previously screwed into the deck with three 90 degree brackets. It was directly underneath the center console, which is some real estate I would love to claim. Anyways, With the space limitations I feel that I am just looking back at putting it in the same location.

 

[gatorfan6908]

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Alright... I know it's been a week since my last post, but I had a friend of mine leave for the desert this past weekend and I spent some time with him before he went. On another note, I have gotten quite a bit completed and I am finally ready to install the transom but I am missing that extra set of hands to help out... perhaps I will find some this weekend?
So I went over the transom with one layer of resin, then I applied one layer of 1.5oz CSM just to waterproof it. It was quite the task getting over the edges, sides, and corners. This was my first ever experience working with and applying fiberglass and polyester resin to a project, but I feel that it went well; except for the time I kicked over the quart-sized bucket of freshly-mixed resin all over the garage floor. That turned out to be a mess I never want to clean up again, and I am sure that now I will watch where I step before moving around with my respirator on while applying resin. (makes it difficult to use peripherals)

Here is a picture of the two pieces of transom glued together with Titebond 3

Here is a pic of the transom with the clamps I built... another big THANKS to WoodonGlass for the design idea, they work great!

Also... I read some reviews about the Drill Guide that FriscoBoater used to drill the holes in his transom... The one available at Home Depot got some bad ones due to cheap plastic and pieces that didn't work well. I know reviews are sketchy, especially since FricoBoater's worked out so well, but I rely on them alot in my carreer (Network Security). Lowes didn't even have one, so I resorted to my local ACE Hardware. I found one online with great reviews and an all metal frame for about $33. I got it in today and it was easy to put together and feels strong and sturdy. Here is a pic. I know my drill is a weakling, but that is an expense I am not willing to fork out right now.

Here is a picture of the transom with the CSM applied.

Anyways, I am going to start another post because I have a question and other pic to post. Any input is greatly appreciated and suggestions are welcome.

 

[gatorfan6908]

Re: 1978 River Ox Restoration Project

Here is my question...
When you look at the below picture, you can see some cutouts where bolts are going through the transom to fasten the motor to it. At the very top, there are two cutouts where holes are over the very top of the outer skin. This will also be close to the very top of the transom. It worries me that the strength there will be weak for truly securing the motor. If this is the case, I am looking for some tips on this.

I have a few scenarios you can help me out with...

1. I leave it as is, possibly raise the transom a little bit on the outerskin to see if I can get some more thickness in the wood itself.

2. I try to make a template of the bolt pattern for the outboard and move it down on the outer skin. When I look at it on the outboard motor stand. If so, what is the best method for filling in the holes/replacing the gel-coat there? I have some Marine-Tex that I can use, but wondering if there is a better option.

Here is a picture from the inside of the bolt pattern for the outboard.

HELP!!!!!

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1978 River Ox Restoration Project

Looking good, Gator...

Seal up all those holes and forget the "band-aid" metal bracket that was there...You won't need it with the new transom...

You can leave them as they are for now, when you install the new trans plate with PB, it will ooze through them and somewhat help anchor the plate, then do a little dishing out of them on the outer hull skin, add a few pieces of CSM to fill and level, Fair them, and done, then re-gel or paint...

 

[gatorfan6908]

Re: 1978 River Ox Restoration Project

GT,
Thanks for the response. I definitely wasn't going to use the metal bracket that was there, I was mainly going to keep is as a bolt pattern template. The PB will definitely work, and hopefully it will fill nicely with the tape I have applied. I'm not going to try and dish them out over the outer skin though. Hopefully thats not shooting myself in the foot.
Anyways, if you have any tips on the best way to make a template for the bolt pattern, I would appreciate it. I'm not sure that the metal bracket will work...

Thanks again,

Lonnie

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1978 River Ox Restoration Project

Post a pic of the front of the motor mounting plate on the motor itself. I think I would use some cardboard or tagboard and make a template straight from the motor and transfer it to the transom. I agree with GT I'd fill every hole in the transom with PB and redrill em all when the time comes. I might even Oversize Drill em and then redrill em. That way if they ever leaked there would never be any wood exposure.

 

[gatorfan6908]

Re: 1978 River Ox Restoration Project

Sounds like a great idea. Are you sure that the PB will be strong enough over time to keep the outboard mount securely fastened? I am all for it, as it is a great idea and will definitely help the mechanical bond throughout the transom.
While I am thinking about it, I wanted to drill a few holes through the transom before applying it to let the PB ooze through to get an even stronger mechanical bond. With this method, where would you suggest placing the holes and how many should I drill? You can see the transom above, so let me know if you need any other information.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

Re: Staring at this vessel in my yard... Is she worth fixing?

I think anywhere between 6-10, 3/8" or 1/2" holes more or less evenly spaced throughout would suffice...

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1978 River Ox Restoration Project

PS- the PB is not really structural, the new transom is...PB is mostly a filler, the strength comes from the CSM and 1708 + the plywood...

 

[gatorfan6908]

Re: 1978 River Ox Restoration Project

I'm just thinking of the bolts being threaded through the PB. Will the torque and stress from the motor break it down and eventually widen the hole?

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1978 River Ox Restoration Project

I'm just thinking of the bolts being threaded through the PB. Will the torque and stress from the motor break it down and eventually widen the hole?

No, basically, lets say the bolts are 1/2" diameter, you would drill a 9/16" hole, fill with PB, then re-drill to the 1/2" bolt size...thus creating a PB "sleeve" which isolates the wood from moisture...you would also slather some 3M 5200 on the bolts before installation...