Inboard outboard air cooled engine

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Maybe I'm wrong, But I thought the shift rod in L U pulled up and pushed down. Instead of twisting.

NO-NO-NO...think what I said.
The threaded rod!..it will move a small amount SIDE TO SIDE..with the side nuts..also threaded..MINIMAL.
The shift lever goes up and down!
Go back and look again...then " visualize "...what I'm saying..

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Again.
Eye bolt in the shifter. (I have capabilities to make that idea much better)
A lever goes back to the threaded rod.
It is welded (or your somehow way to make it solid to the rod)
It is secured both sides in the box.
The far end (either side) for a up/down movement is another lever
It also is welded (or some way)
GET MY DRIFT?
Its only a sort of motorcycle shifter....
Too simple.
I have brass couplers. Crap house fulla all metals, Lathe, welders, mill, etc.
I could whip that up faster than I can type out what I mean..do the ship$, and I can make it..
Lets do this right..
Sick of the typing keys. Ya want, give me a call..been at this for years
360-866- (ya are getting a PM for the rest..glad to help..)..Robby
Solid deminsions, I will whip it up

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

NO-NO-NO...think what I said.
The threaded rod!..it will move a small amount SIDE TO SIDE..with the side nuts..also threaded..MINIMAL.
The shift lever goes up and down!
Go back and look again...then " visualize "...what I'm saying..

I got it now, you're pivoting from the far end of the rod. What I'm thinking, pivoting from there will make the rod heavy at the other end of the boxed frame, where it comes out, plus a longer movement range of the rod. I like maxum's idea, having the pivot point close to where it comes out of the box.

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Again.
Eye bolt in the shifter. (I have capabilities to make that idea much better)
A lever goes back to the threaded rod.
It is welded (or your somehow way to make it solid to the rod)
It is secured both sides in the box.
The far end (either side) for a up/down movement is another lever
It also is welded (or some way)
GET MY DRIFT?
Its only a sort of motorcycle shifter....
Too simple.
I have a brass couplers. Crap house fulla all metals, Lathe, welders, mill, etc.
I could whip that up faster than I can type out what I mean..do the ship$, and I can make it..
Lets do this right..
Sick of the typing keys. Ya want, give me a call..been at this for years
360-866- (ya are getting a PM for the rest..glad to help..)..Robby
Solid deminsions, I will whip it up

Now I gottcha, then depending on the travel required by the L U shift rod you would move axle rod closer or farther away and lengthen or shorten the pin through the eye bolt at top of shift rod. correct?

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Now I gottcha, then depending on the travel required by the L U shift rod you would move axle rod closer or farther away and lengthen or shorten the pin through the eye bolt at top of shift rod. correct?

(I just edited this for a little more clarity)

YES! ..(actually the lever is shortened, or elongated ..the "Fulcrum" thing)
There is NO ..none what so ever.."stuff" the L/U, that makes it a tough shifter by hand. Kinda hard to explain. Pop off the top of the case. (edit..its upside down here)..split across in that type case ..shift like butter, but the spiral gear (edit, gear Clutch dogs) will shove in neutral right now without some sort of resistence.
Its a simple "slight"..."OVER CENTER".."Fulcrum" designed in the gearcase and linkage thats does that...basically THATS what holds it in gear. Slop (and rounded clutch dogs) will lose that..and bang out of gear...catch my drift?

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

These are the split ring pipe hangers, for the tiller, copper, & steel, in various sizes, usually they have a 3/8" threaded socket in the middle for a piece of threaded rod:
"http://www.warwickhanger.com/catalog/pipe-hangers/copper-tubing/split-ring-hangers/"

And these are the hanger wall plates, for the transom.
"http://www.erico.com/public/library/Fixing-MFFUSCat/365M-365.pdf"

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Scatty;
I have one Question. Where the rod goes through the eye at top of L U shift rod, When it pulls up, would'nt the eye want to slide down the shift pin and tend to want to bend the L U shaft and bind? Or is the eye big enough to prevent that? Or should he put a hook at where it goes through the eye to prevent slipage?

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Scatty;
I have one Question. Where the rod goes through the eye at top of L U shift rod, When it pulls up, would'nt the eye want to slide down the shift pin and tend to want to bend the L U shaft and bind? Or is the eye big enough to prevent that? Or should he put a hook at where it goes through the eye to prevent slipage?

The "eye" cannot have any "slop"...need a solid "up/down"..thats were a Bushing..comes into play..I can make that easy..

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Scatty;
I have one Question. Where the rod goes through the eye at top of L U shift rod, When it pulls up, would'nt the eye want to slide down the shift pin and tend to want to bend the L U shaft and bind? Or is the eye big enough to prevent that? Or should he put a hook at where it goes through the eye to prevent slipage?

Considering there's no way to get a straight pull in there, do you have another choice? a hook wouldn't work, what happens to a hook when you go to shift down? it would slip out, no? I suppose you could mount a ball on the top of the shift shaft, then get a rod with a socket on it to make a swivel, but it would need to swivel enough so that it wouldn't bind going thru the shifters range.

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

This is possibly another way to mount the tiller on the transom, a couple of galvanized 1" pipe tee's, and a couple of 1" pipe flanges, (as shown here) with a couple of short threaded pieces of pipe (short nipples) in between. Then when lined up, & mounted on the transom, just slip the tiller pipe down thru them:

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

The "eye" cannot have any "slop"...need a solid "up/down"..thats were a Bushing..comes into play..I can make that easy..

Well I think I would go with a lever that pivits and lifts straight up instead of twisting. But thats just me. He will decide , it really depends on how much clearance he's got. what he will try first.

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

This is possibly another way to mount the tiller on the transom, a couple of galvanized 1" pipe tee's, and a couple of 1" pipe flanges, (as shown here) with a couple of short threaded pieces of pipe (short nipples) in between. Then when lined up, & mounted on the transom, just slip the tiller pipe down thru them:

I think the most simple way is to make the tiller out of wood. and bolt strap hinges with the eye in them on the stern an a pin type strap on the tiller and it just drops in. You could put a washer and cotter pin in it to stop tiller from lifting off and it would be simple to take off. I quote (KISS)

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Well I think I would go with a lever that pivits and lifts straight up instead of twisting. But thats just me. He will decide , it really depends on how much clearance he's got. what he will try first.

Stop thinking twist. There really is none. You have to remember we are working cheap here, not custom made stuff. I'm working here with for under $5 I can get and whip up.
With a threaded rod on nuts in the box, it will move side to side the same amount of movement as any nut in not EVEN a 1/4 turn on a bolt. I might have tossed a curve bringing it up.

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Heres a pic of that type case (actually sick of looking at one..just finished a old 61 5.5 Johnny case rebuild, and those you need to pop the powerhead to get at the shift linkage to remove the LU)

Anyway, #40 in the shift fork, #35 Rod, #58 clamp
Theres a lot of room for any side/side twist movement up top anyway...not a problem at all.

And I got an easy idea for fixing a lever to the clamp, and a possible way for attaching to the threaded rod without welding..(in another post later...I'll try to pic the idea..)
The only diff in this pic is a longer shift rod, short in the LU we are talking here

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Well I think I would go with a lever that pivits and lifts straight up instead of twisting. .

Do you mean "rotate"...instead of twist? Think I know what ya mean now.

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Heres a simple way to mount a lever. Spread the clamp top half a bit, and 3/16-1/8 plate fits. If you want rotation movement, run a bolt through an enlongated hole in the plate, leave loose in the slot, and double nut the end of the bolt.
Solid, butt up the plate against the far end, and bolt it up tight. This way, it might be possible to make up some sort of up/down linkage off the rear off the angle iron

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Heres a simple way to mount a lever. Spread the clamp top half a bit, and 3/16-1/8 plate fits. If you want rotation movement, run a bolt through an enlongated hole in the plate, leave loose in the slot, and double nut the end of the bolt.
Solid, butt up the plate against the far end, and bolt it up tight. This way, it might be possible to make up some sort of up/down linkage off the rear off the angle iron

Well now I think we are both on the same wave length. Wonder what he will do?

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

After a thinking project like this, sooner or later the men in white coats and straight jacket show up?

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Well now I think we are both on the same wave length. Wonder what he will do?

Just walked in the door from working on the shifter! This is my plan, I got my helmet on, so I'm ready for your response!


I took a three inch stainless bolt and cut the head off, then ground a grove around it to fasten it the shift coupling as was designed from the factory.

The second picture with the parts layed out, the gap between the two stainless washers is were the shift lever would go. There will be a slot cut in the shift lever so it won't bind between the springs.. A shape like an arrow will be ground on the end of the shift lever where the slot will be cut so that the shift lever will lay flush with the washer and springs as position of shifter is changed from forward to reverse so there will be no binding. The springs are there to take the slack out of the shift lever.
There are two designs, one with the handle coming straight out the side of the engine mount box. The other with the handle going up to the sitting position at the seat. There would be a bushing bolted to the side of the box for the handle going to the sitting position, this will allow the handle to move up and down at the sitting position and the lever at the box would switch up and down to change gears. Would just have to figure out how to connect the two! I think I could have a thread on the end coming out of the box and do something simular by drilling a hole thru the end of the handle oblong and useing a jam nut and washers to install. This way as the shift handle is moved up and down the oblong hole would be positioned to kind of lay on its's side to take care of the angle change. Sorry for the poor pictures!

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

CLAP! CLAP! CLAP! CLAP! CLAP! shrill whistle !!!!!