Inboard outboard air cooled engine

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I forgot to mention to remember to stay clear of where your tiller hardware is going to go. Of all the things I have lost, I miss my mind the most.

I have big plans for that rudder!

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

IMO, The exhaust, Why don't you just get a bit longer pipe nipple for the middle, and just put it there for now, and see how it all works out. You can always change it later, it shouldn't be too hard to do. Besides keep your hands out of there! There's no reason for your hands to be near it, or build a round louvered sheet metal shield to put over it.

I don't like the idea of putting a hot dry exhaust thru the hull, but if you must, I'd suggest either an 1 1/2", or 2" I.D. Ceramic, or metal pipe, fastened to the hull, as a sleeve for the exhaust to go thru, to try and insulate the transom material from the heat.

Here's another crazy idea, put the exhaust straight up into the air, then put a 90* elbow on the top, facing backward with a short nipple, & muffler, the wind passing over it at high speed WOT should help cool it down, and you could use it as a flagpole, or a mast for a sail too

I had originally thought about putting a pipe straight up and putting a flapper on it like tractors use only miniture form.

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I had originally thought about putting a pipe straight up and putting a flapper on it like tractors use only miniture form.

RIGHT ON!!

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I had originally thought about putting a pipe straight up and putting a flapper on it like tractors use only miniture form.

LOL! That's exactly what I was thinking too, that would be cool! it's up to you. Being a retired pipefitter, a good pipe thread should spin up 3 turns by hand, or a bit more. If cut too shallow it will be tight, I hate to work with a tight thread, but depending on the guy making the thread, sometimes it happens, and you have no choice. Normal Pipe compound will get messy, sticky, & maybe bind up on you, I'd suggest teflon tape, (2 full wraps) on the thread, in a clockwise direction (with the thread), will make the thread slippery, & easier, to put together, & take off later (if need be), it might cook off some from the heat, but that really shouldn't be a problem.

As an afterthought, IMO, I was thinking you should remove the springs, or tighten them up on the shift shaft, outboards, & I/O's like to be put swiftly, & firmly, into gear, or they get messed up. The springs have a tendency to dampen the action, and or, slow the process down some, I think it should be a solid shift, that's why I mentioned the eyebolt, or swivel (ball joint) on the shift shaft originally. You could even use a clevis, or a shackle, of some type with a pin thru it, that would give you a solid, but hinging, push, pull, effect, If you could find a way to put it on? I've seen some in Ace hardware that were threaded, to go on a threaded rod. Just thinking out loud here, so be it, do what works best for you,,, later Mike

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

LOL! That's exactly what I was thinking too, that would be cool! it's up to you. Being a retired pipefitter, a good pipe thread should spin up 3 turns by hand, or a bit more. If cut too shallow it will be tight, I hate to work with a tight thread, but depending on the guy making the thread, sometimes it happens, and you have no choice. Normal Pipe compound will get messy, sticky, & maybe bind up on you, I'd suggest teflon tape, (2 full wraps) on the thread, in a clockwise direction (with the thread), will make the thread slippery, & easier, to put together, & take off later (if need be), it might cook off some from the heat, but that really shouldn't be a problem.

As an afterthought, IMO, I was thinking you should remove the springs, or tighten them up on the shift shaft, outboards, & I/O's like to be put swiftly, & firmly, into gear, or they get messed up. The springs have a tendency to dampen the action, and or, slow the process down some, I think it should be a solid shift, that's why I mentioned the eyebolt, or swivel (ball joint) on the shift shaft originally. You could even use a clevis, or a shackle, of some type with a pin thru it, that would give you a solid, but hinging, push, pull, effect, If you could find a way to put it on? I've seen some in Ace hardware that were threaded, to go on a threaded rod. Just thinking out loud here, so be it, do what works best for you,,, later Mike

How about a tie rod end off the tractor ?

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Exhaust.
I'd do thru hull (look cool).
Try a size up pipe nipple that will slip over the exhaust pipe. Hole saw (remember, transom is angled, so go level) through, bed it in with 4200 ??
Keep it high as ya can...but still under the top of the transom..
Might have a problem with sizes/gaps/holesaw (too large) though...aint got no pipe specs at hand...
Looks like a Hardware store trip again

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Exhaust.
I'd do thru hull (look cool).
Try a size up pipe nipple that will slip over the exhaust pipe. Hole saw (remember, transom is angled, so go level) through, bed it in with 4200 ??
Keep it high as ya can...but still under the top of the transom..
Might have a problem with sizes/gaps/holesaw (too large) though...aint got no pipe specs at hand...
Looks like a Hardware store trip again

I just want to mention that, this is not water cooled exhaust, so it will be hotter then on an average V8 with thru-hull exhaust, rubber exhaust hoses coming off the risers, going over the exhaust tips which are just glued, & screwed, thru the hull, which I had set up on 2 of my previous boats.

If the exhaust piping is 1" Iron Pipe Size, then it's about 1 1/4" O.D. Because, pipe size is measured at inner diameter so, 1 1/2" I.P. or 2" I.P.Size, should go over it, But just as a point of information aluminum dissapates heat faster then steel, or tin.

If you should decide to go this way, I would only mount the pipe sleeve with 4200, or 5200. (not sure which sealant is better?) not the exhaust pipe itself.

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I just want to mention that, this is not water cooled exhaust, so it will be hotter then on an average V8 with thru-hull exhaust, rubber exhaust hoses coming off the risers, going over the exhaust tips which are just glued, & screwed, thru the hull, which I had set up on 2 of my previous boats.

If the exhaust piping is 1" Iron Pipe Size, then it's about 1 1/4" O.D. Because, pipe size is measured at inner diameter so, 1 1/2" I.P. or 2" I.P.Size, should go over it, But just as a point of information aluminum dissapates heat faster then steel, or tin.

If you should decide to go this way, I would only mount the pipe sleeve with 4200, or 5200. (not sure which sealant is better?) not the exhaust pipe itself.

Water cooled exhaust? Maybe I could route the exhaust down and out the bottom of the stern, it would be water cooled then! Or I could go straight thru the bottom and put say a 2 1/2 inch pipe around the exhaust where it goes thru, leaving it high enough that the water wouldn't over flow into the boat, that would keep things cool! At running speed the water would leave the pipe, at idle would fill up to cool the exhaust. I guess it would need to be full all the time wouldn't it? Could cut a scupper in half and mount it under there "IN REVERSE" so it wouldn't force water up into the boat, or would it force into the boat with the scupper right way round ? I think we're talking around 20 mph here or less, and the scupper would also protect the end of the pipe, look like the big yauchts then all brassed up or is it bronzed up?

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Water cooled exhaust? Maybe I could route the exhaust down and out the bottom of the stern, it would be water cooled then! Or I could go straight thru the bottom and put say a 2 1/2 inch pipe around the exhaust where it goes thru, leaving it high enough that the water wouldn't over flow into the boat, that would keep things cool! At running speed the water would leave the pipe ,at idle would fill up to cool the exhaust. Could cut a scupper in half and mount it under there "IN REVERSE" so it wouldn't force water up into the boat, and to protect the end of the pipe, look like the big yauchts then all brassed up or is it bronzed up?

I would't put the exhaust in the water atall, IMO, you're just asking for trouble, IF, for any reason, it creates a vacuum, (without a flapper type check valve, and, or, a homemade trap= riser also,) and it sucks up water, you can kiss that engine goodbye! I could be wrong, but that's my opinion.

Wait, I have a brainstorm, or brainfart, whatever, Maybe you could build a bigger waterproof pipe manifold around the exhaust pipe, then attach a water pickup to the hull bottom, and run a hose to the manifold for water cooling when underway, then another hose off the manifold to dump the heated water somewhere, only if you want to go thru the trouble to do this that is?

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

LOL! That's exactly what I was thinking too, that would be cool! it's up to you. Being a retired pipefitter, a good pipe thread should spin up 3 turns by hand, or a bit more. If cut too shallow it will be tight, I hate to work with a tight thread, but depending on the guy making the thread, sometimes it happens, and you have no choice. Normal Pipe compound will get messy, sticky, & maybe bind up on you, I'd suggest teflon tape, (2 full wraps) on the thread, in a clockwise direction (with the thread), will make the thread slippery, & easier, to put together, & take off later (if need be), it might cook off some from the heat, but that really shouldn't be a problem.

As an afterthought, IMO, I was thinking you should remove the springs, or tighten them up on the shift shaft, outboards, & I/O's like to be put swiftly, & firmly, into gear, or they get messed up. The springs have a tendency to dampen the action, and or, slow the process down some, I think it should be a solid shift, that's why I mentioned the eyebolt, or swivel (ball joint) on the shift shaft originally. You could even use a clevis, or a shackle, of some type with a pin thru it, that would give you a solid, but hinging, push, pull, effect, If you could find a way to put it on? I've seen some in Ace hardware that were threaded, to go on a threaded rod. Just thinking out loud here, so be it, do what works best for you,,, later Mike

The springs are working out fine, they are weak enough that the springs bottom before it shifts, I honestly can't tell any difference in the way it shifts now and say when it was new, nice clean shift everytime! The shift rod only leans a little going into forward gear and not at all when shifting from forward to neutral to reverse, fine tune it and I might get that out. Happy for now!

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I would't put the exhaust in the water atall, IMO, you're just asking for trouble, IF, for any reason, it creates a vacuum, (without a flapper type check valve, and, or, a homemade trap= riser also,) and it sucks up water, you can kiss that engine goodbye! I could be wrong, but that's my opinion.

Wait, I have a brainstorm, or brainfart, whatever, Maybe you could build a bigger waterproof pipe manifold around the exhaust pipe, then attach a water pickup to the hull bottom, and run a hose to the manifold for water cooling when underway, then another hose off the manifold to dump the heated water somewhere, only if you want to go thru the trouble to do this that is?

That's a cool idea but I don't think I have it in me! Or the other idea's on the exhausht I mentioned, just rambling I guess!

Thinking hard on this exhaust, Scaaty reminded me not to over think. Spent two days looking at new trucks once, what did I come home with, the first one I looked at! Usually works the same when creating. I beleive it is called over thinking! That' me!

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

The springs are working out fine, they are weak enough that the springs bottom before it shifts, I honestly can't tell any difference in the way it shifts now and say when it was new, nice clean shift everytime! The shift rod only leans a little going into forward gear and not at all when shifting from forward to neutral to reverse, fine tune it and I might get that out. Happy for now!

Hey if it works good, Run with it!

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Ran into a problem with the way I mounted the lower unit, the oil drain plug is at floor level and I can't get to it. Figured out a way to raise it inside the boat, this would require cutting the cavatation plate on the lower unit off and grinding it flush with the case. I would do away with the wood blocks and fill and glass the unit to the bottom of the boat. I can do repairs this way to anything I would need to, providing the case doesn't get damaged then I would have to cut it out and start over. I think it is worth the risk, so my question is, will it weaken the strength of the case if I do this? I don't feel it will, but I've been wrong many times before!

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Decided to go with a hole thru the stern. Pictures don't do it justice, it looks pretty good in person so to speak.

Man! That's some of the sharpest fiberglass I think I've ever seen! Guess it's where the boat is so old and the glass is dry.

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Ran into a problem with the way I mounted the lower unit, the oil drain plug is at floor level and I can't get to it. Figured out a way to raise it inside the boat, this would require cutting the cavatation plate on the lower unit off and grinding it flush with the case. I would do away with the wood blocks and fill and glass the unit to the bottom of the boat. I can do repairs this way to anything I would need to, providing the case doesn't get damaged then I would have to cut it out and start over. I think it is worth the risk, so my question is, will it weaken the strength of the case if I do this? I don't feel it will, but I've been wrong many times before!

Sorry, fell asleep on the couch, (it happens when you get old,,,lol) Regarding your exhaust, Alright! That'll Get The Job Done! But , about the lower unit, I don't understand??? Please tell me No! you don't hafta move it?

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Ran into a problem with the way I mounted the lower unit, the oil drain plug is at floor level and I can't get to it. Figured out a way to raise it inside the boat, this would require cutting the cavatation plate on the lower unit off and grinding it flush with the case. I would do away with the wood blocks and fill and glass the unit to the bottom of the boat. I can do repairs this way to anything I would need to, providing the case doesn't get damaged then I would have to cut it out and start over. I think it is worth the risk, so my question is, will it weaken the strength of the case if I do this? I don't feel it will, but I've been wrong many times before!

Maybe I misunderstand. If you raise the lower unit up into the boat . You would have to raise the engine also. Would'nt you? Can't you put an extension on it somehow? The drain hole I mean.Can you take the prop off and lower it in from the inside instead of cutting the cav. plate?

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Are you talking about the oil vent screw??? because I can see the oil drain/fill screw on the bottom, you push the lube up from the bottom, right? and you can't remove the upper screw just to to vent??? If so, I'm sorry! I never saw that one coming I guess it's hard to tell without physically being there, Is there no other way it's only a vent? I thought you had that one figured before putting it into the boat :redface:

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Maybe I misunderstand. If you raise the lower unit up into the boat . You would have to raise the engine also. Would'nt you? Can't you put an extension on it somehow? The drain hole I mean.Can you take the prop off and lower it in from the inside instead of cutting the cav. plate?

Extension, that's the answer problem solved! I'll cut a little chunk out of the bottom and put something like playdoe in the opening when I glass the unit in, that will give the clearance that I need. Going to try and do away with the wood blocks on the bottom though, not real crazy about them. Will use them if I have to!

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Ok, got this Pic from Post #175 bottom of page #7, is this the vent screw at the top of the Pic that you're talking about? If so, wouldn't it be accessable if you fastened the Cav plate hard to the hull, I mean all you're gonna do is take it out to vent? I would try, & do it that way, even if I had to grind off some of the boat bottom. If you need some tips as to how I would seal it all up let me know later.

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Ok, for sealing, if you decide to move the L.U. up a skosh, and fasten it down good to the hull, just to get at the screw, listen close now, IMO use a layer of wax paper over the upper Cav plate, and then scotch tape around, and along, the sides just above it. Then just pour in epoxy, or 4200, or 5200, from the top till it possibly drips out everywhere. Because, Wax paper, & scotch tape acts like a mold realease agent, so once it all sets up, & bonds, it will seal great, and you still will be able to remove it in the future if need be! Unless you can think of a better mold release agent?