Inboard outboard air cooled engine

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Ok, got this Pic from Post #175 bottom of page #7, is this the vent screw at the top of the Pic that you're talking about? If so, wouldn't it be accessable if you fastened the Cav plate hard to the hull, I mean all you're gonna do is take it out to vent? I would try, & do it that way, even if I had to grind off some of the boat bottom. If you need some tips as to how I would seal it all up let me know later.

If you look at the bottom of the boat where the lower unit comes thru you can see the vent screw coming just below the bottom of the boat. To fasten the cavatation plate hard to the hull I would need to move the lower unit up 1/2 inch, I would only have to unfasten 6 screws inside the boat that hold the angle bracket in place, move the angle bracket up 1/2 inch and screw it back into place. I would need to cut 1/4 - 3/8 inch off the drive shaft and coupling, then the vent screw would be up where I could get to it no problem, to fix this sounds worse than it would be to actually do it, probably could have it done in an hours time if I got right on it!

The only problem with putting the lower unit hard against the bottom is, the way I had to cut the hole through the bottom to get the lower unit in, there's nothing to really bolt to, so that's the reason for the question about cutting the cavatation plate flush with the housing and why the wood blocks were originally there. This way I could let the angle bracket hold the unit in place as it does now and flip the boat and mold around the lower unit, get the shape that I would want and then glass over it for a good strong water tight seal. I think I'll be able to remove a little chunk from the hull and it will be a fine fix, and if I dress up the bottom correctly the little bump out shouldn,t even be noticeable! Sorrry for the confusion.

In the picture you can see part of the gap I'm talking about, if the plate were removed it would be a nice smooth transition for the fiberglass to mold to.

Can I cut the cavatation plate safely without weakening the lower unit?

 

[Capt. Mike]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

about 25 years ago I took a chain saw motor a "Poland 31" I went to a boat shop they sold me a botttom for ten bucks it was about 1982. I made it work and put it on my $50.00 rubber raft I went all over the lake that summer. TWRA thought I was nuts but it worked. Eleven boats later, and I am still making things work but now my boat is a little bigger.

www.bigwoodenboat.com

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Well, I like everything you did to this point, I probably couldn't have done as well myself! but, I'm gonna disagree with you on this one, I wouldn't remove the Cav. plate for any reason if possible! Plus you're getting close to that prop! There's gotta be a way to fasten the plate to the bottom, with just enough room to get to the vent screw, then fill in the rest with sealer.
The Cav plate also gives it all some rigidity, without it, the L.U. may develop forces on it that cause it to lean to the side, or come up thru the bottom, along with a spinning prop! Heaven forbid the first time you run aground,and the lower unit has no place to go, but up! the Cav plate is your only protection from that! are you understanding my concerns now?

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

By the way, Just how often are you gonna change that lower unit oil? once a season? Why go thru all this trouble? didn't you figure on making the lower unit removable for repairs, & maintenance ocassionally anyway?

 

[daydreamer1252]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Maxum have not read ALL of this thread. Dial up and lots of pictures make it a painfully slow process. I had similar projects in mind back in the early 60's and have found it interesting.

A couple questions and a comment for you.
Have you thought about how to plug the exhaust outlet behind the prop. I see nothing in you photos that show anything. In reverse it will likely pick up some water and deposit it where you don't want.

Another thought about your exhaust: VIBRATION and the transfer of it. With out some damping it will be a MAJOR source of NOISE and not pleasant noise either.

Just my 2 cents...

Obviously if this has been discussed on the pages that I have not read yet then disregard and I apologize for the interuption of the thought processes.

Great project and best wishes, will follow it to the end.

daydreamer1252

 

[MikDee]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Maxum, I would go so far as to put a layer of a sheet metal plate for extra strength, and to help seal, over the hole in the bottom, recut the hole, and then drop the lower unit in and fasten down the Cav. plate

Ok, catch you later, gotta go do errands, I hope you don't do anything rash while I'm gone

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Well, I like everything you did to this point, I probably couldn't have done as well myself! but, I'm gonna disagree with you on this one, I wouldn't remove the Cav. plate for any reason if possible! Plus you're getting close to that prop! There's gotta be a way to fasten the plate to the bottom, with just enough room to get to the vent screw, then fill in the rest with sealer.
The Cav plate also gives it all some rigidity, without it, the L.U. may develop forces on it that cause it to lean to the side, or come up thru the bottom, along with a spinning prop! Heaven forbid the first time you run aground,and the lower unit has no place to go, but up! the Cav plate is your only protection from that! are you understanding my concerns now?

I beleive that's reason enough not to pursue it any futher! I'll go with making a little adjustment to the hull so that after it's fastened there will be room to get to the vent plug! That will only take a few minutes to correct then it'll be ready to fasten to the hull. Thanks!

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Maxum have not read ALL of this thread. Dial up and lots of pictures make it a painfully slow process. I had similar projects in mind back in the early 60's and have found it interesting.

A couple questions and a comment for you.
Have you thought about how to plug the exhaust outlet behind the prop. I see nothing in you photos that show anything. In reverse it will likely pick up some water and deposit it where you don't want.

Another thought about your exhaust: VIBRATION and the transfer of it. With out some damping it will be a MAJOR source of NOISE and not pleasant noise either.

Just my 2 cents...

Obviously if this has been discussed on the pages that I have not read yet then disregard and I apologize for the interuption of the thought processes.

Great project and best wishes, will follow it to the end.

daydreamer1252

The exhausht snout has been removed and filled with epoxy putty and the water pick up has been sealed with epoxy putty as well. If you look at the third picture close you can see where it it is sealed with the epoxy putty also. Total of three holes had to be sealed. Chime in any time glad to have you along! Here's a couple of pictures!

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

OK; Now we are getting close. All this time I have been waiting to mention another problem. Now that you have the vent problem solved (little bump on bottom) I think you should consider a keel forward of the L U . so it would take the shock of grounding instead of force on the L U . Some thing like the ones that carry the prop shaft on the old bigger type boats. Perhaps you could work the vent extension into it.

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

about 25 years ago I took a chain saw motor a "Poland 31" I went to a boat shop they sold me a botttom for ten bucks it was about 1982. I made it work and put it on my $50.00 rubber raft I went all over the lake that summer. TWRA thought I was nuts but it worked. Eleven boats later, and I am still making things work but now my boat is a little bigger.

www.bigwoodenboat.com

Hey! Capt Mike, been tinkering all my life, guess the last thirty years or so of my 45 years! Can't really remember when I wasn't trying to rework the wheel so to speak! It,s a lot of fun and the conversation is what really makes it fun for me. I find great joy in seeing the look on peoples faces when they see that someone has taken an idea a step beyond the norm, have had many great conversations over the years with my motor projects and look forward to many more.

Great idea on the rubber raft hadn't thought of anything like useing a chainsaw motor. How fast did it go?

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

By the way, Just how often are you gonna change that lower unit oil? once a season? Why go thru all this trouble? didn't you figure on making the lower unit removable for repairs, & maintenance ocassionally anyway?

Yeah! But one thing lead to another and the next thing you know I realized that I had over looked leaving space for the vent screw, but I gotter now all is good!

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

OK; Now we are getting close. All this time I have been waiting to mention another problem. Now that you have the vent problem solved (little bump on bottom) I think you should consider a keel forward of the L U . so it would take the shock of grounding instead of force on the L U . Some thing like the ones that carry the prop shaft on the old bigger type boats. Perhaps you could work the vent extension into it.

I'll have to give that some thought! I can't help but to think back many disscussions ago. I think years was mentioned! YEARS!

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Maxum, I would go so far as to put a layer of a sheet metal plate for extra strength, and to help seal, over the hole in the bottom, recut the hole, and then drop the lower unit in and fasten down the Cav. plate

Ok, catch you later, gotta go do errands, I hope you don't do anything rash while I'm gone

Rash? Wouldn't dream of it! heh! heh!

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Stepping back to the shifter assemble. Think I've figured out how to conect the shifter useing the shift lever from an old riding mower. There would be a bolt and washer from the inside of the motor mount box, on the outside of the box where the bolt comes thru a brass bearing washer or something equal to it, a galvanized peice of pipe with a grove cut in the end to accept the shift handle a hole thru the shift handle about 5/16" another brass bearing washer or something equal and another washer and a nylon locking nut to hold it all in place. That takes care of mounting the handle now to connect it to the shifter. There's an automotive bracket that's used on trans missions can't think of the name it to connect the shifting rod. It is double sided, kind of a square shape and has a slot on either side. Thinking of useing something simular to this to make the connection. Have to figure how to make one up and be able to connect to handle. The shift movement will be up and down at the connection so whatever I use will have to be able to move straight up and down with some give. Unless you have another idea or idea's?

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Stepping back to the shifter assemble. Think I've figured out how to conect the shifter useing the shift lever from an old riding mower. There would be a bolt and washer from the inside of the motor mount box, on the outside of the box where the bolt comes thru a brass bearing washer or something equal to it, a galvanized peice of pipe with a grove cut in the end to accept the shift handle a hole thru the shift handle about 5/16" another brass bearing washer or something equal and another washer and a nylon locking nut to hold it all in place. That takes care of mounting the handle now to connect it to the shifter. There's an automotive bracket that's used on trans missions can't think of the name it to connect the shifting rod. It is double sided, kind of a square shape and has a slot on either side. Thinking of useing something simular to this to make the connection. Have to figure how to make one up and be able to connect to handle. The shift movement will be up and down at the connection so whatever I use will have to be able to move straight up and down with some give. Unless you have another idea or idea's?

How about putting a peace of angle iron on top of the box for your shifter hinge point. Flip the shift rod over and bolt it above with short bend pointing down. Slip a long threaded eye bolt over rod coming out of box and attach threaded portion to short bend. When you pull shifter up it will push rod from box down. Hinge point will regulate distance of travel of shift knob verses distance of travel required by L U rod to reach gear. Clear?

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

How about putting a peace of angle iron on top of the box for your shifter hinge point. Flip the shift rod over and bolt it above with short bend pointing down. Slip a long threaded eye bolt over rod coming out of box and attach threaded portion to short bend. When you pull shifter up it will push rod from box down. Hinge point will regulate distance of travel of shift knob verses distance of travel required by L U rod to reach gear. Clear?

Can you give me a little time to wrap my brain around that idea, and get back to you on that? Kid's have been wound up tight today, so I tackled a little less demanding project out in the garage.

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

I know this jumping ahead a little, but as I said I needed something easy on the brain. Took the hinge mount for the riding mower hood, chopped the ears off that mount it, cut a couple angled slots for the tank to sit in and mounted to stern of boat. Not sure where the tank will end up in the end, but this is a starting point!

 

[Capt. Mike]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Hey! Capt Mike, been tinkering all my life, guess the last thirty years or so of my 45 years! Can't really remember when I wasn't trying to rework the wheel so to speak! It,s a lot of fun and the conversation is what really makes it fun for me. I find great joy in seeing the look on peoples faces when they see that someone has taken an idea a step beyond the norm, have had many great conversations over the years with my motor projects and look forward to many more.

Great idea on the rubber raft hadn't thought of anything like useing a chainsaw motor. How fast did it go?

It was not fast, but how fast can a $50.00 raft go.
the main problem I had was the connecting the two rods together. I used a 3/8 universal joint. I welded to each shaft then welded the pins in before this I put a pice of 3/4 clear tube over the rod. after welding I filled with grease slid over universal joint and put pipe clamps over to keep in the grease

www.bigwoodenboat.com

 

[Scaaty]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

OK, I'm gonna sit back here and let ya roll on. Seems exhaust figured, vent screw figured, shift coming along.
Right?

 

[maxum247]

Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

OK, I'm gonna sit back here and let ya roll on. Seems exhaust figured, vent screw figured, shift coming along.
Right?

Right!

Seems I do most of my best creating later in the evening. "Wait!" That's the only time I get to create, is when everything is quite around the house later in the evening. And I'm not being ask nine hundred questions by the little guy!