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  1. oldboat1

    1956 Johnson 10 HP QD-17

    Try the vise grip again, but don't just tap it. Whack it downward up next to the driveshaft.
  2. oldboat1

    1984 johnson 90hp carb leaking fuel out air cleaner

    A fried rectifier can indeed affect operation of the tach (not sure if the tach would be ruined). Just for grins, test the rectifier.
  3. oldboat1

    1980 Johnson 115hp Starter Problems

    Sand the battery cable connections until bright.
  4. oldboat1

    1958 5.1/2 hp Evinrude model 5516 cowl removal

    The spring held gear shift handle might pull straight out, and then swing out of the way -- but don't remember if the 5 1/2 had that feature. Saves scratching the hood.
  5. oldboat1

    Dual fuel line Johnson bogs and overheats

    Plenty of water. Old coils or condensers may be heating up -- pull the flywheel and replace (cracked coils are a sure sign they need replacing). Sandpaper the battery connections, and be sure the connections are tight.
  6. oldboat1

    1957 Evinrude Lark - Need Junction Box!

    Does your Lark have a generator, and if so do you intend to use it? Makes the electricals more complex. I see a cobweb in your pic. The magneto likely needs a rebuild, likewise the water pump. You don't need to run the motor to do the magneto and pump, but will likely want to run it to test...
  7. oldboat1

    1979 Johnson v4 115 hp head getting hot

    sounds like you did everything right. Are you sure the head overheats? Test with an infrared tester (or the heel of your hand). 160F is too hot, and is too hot to touch. may be a bad sensor or a shorting horn.
  8. oldboat1

    Johnson 25hp problems

    could be remaining carb issues. Try spraying 50:1 mix into the carb throat to keep it running. Pull off the fuel pump hose at the carb while cranking and see if fuel is flowing.
  9. oldboat1

    1999 Johnson 70hp not peeing

    Main damage concern is overheating. Top of the head should be somewhere between 120 and 140F. 160F is too hot. An infrared tester is a good investment -- old fashioned way is to touch the top of the head with the heel of your hand. Too hot to touch is too hot to run. Having said that...
  10. oldboat1

    1963 Evinrude Lightwin 3hp

    If it was stored with a bit of gas in the tank, chances are there are varnish deposits -- fresh fuel may be the solution, depending how bad they are. The gravity feed valve that supplies fuel to the carb may need cleaning (best to avoid handling the small gas strainer, as it can disintegrate.)...
  11. oldboat1

    1958 Fastwin 18 lower unit won‘t drop

    Agree with boobie. A piece of leather or rubber will allow a better grip and protect the shaft from the vise grip jaws.
  12. oldboat1

    25 hp no spark

    Rule out simple continuity issues. Get a battery operated tester (kind with a AA or AAA battery). Test light indicates continuity. Test wires end to end. You need solid core wires, not automotive style. Break in continuity may be at the spring connector in a boot -- spike must contact the...
  13. oldboat1

    Evinrude 15 1992 Tiller arm low speed

    t.stat location would indicate it's pre-'88.
  14. oldboat1

    1984 johnson 90hp carb leaking fuel out air cleaner

    Think I would borrow a working portable tank and line, and empty contents. Use a gallon of fresh gas @ 25:1 and see if it will fire for you. It has to spin at somewhere around 300 rpm for proper ignition, so next step would be to at least disassemble and clean (electrical cleaner) the starter...
  15. oldboat1

    25 hp no spark

    Best guess is the power pack. A friendly mechanic might have one he uses for testing (CD2SL), or $100-$120 for a new oem unit. If keeping the motor, a spare power pack is nice to have with you, assuming you don't need it quite yet.
  16. oldboat1

    Sluggish starting

    Pick up an open air tester from an auto parts store (cheap), and measure spark. Look for a half inch sharp spark on each (tests ignition output). Do the idle circuit cleaning that Crosbyman suggests -- oval aluminum replacement plug in the carb kit. These are compression fittings. Carefully...
  17. oldboat1

    Cooling water output J150EXECD

    Measure spark on each. Sounds a little shallow, but not sure what follows from that -- can't tell much on muffs.
  18. oldboat1

    Johnson 90 V4 charging issue.

    Sounds OK. Get a voltmeter on the dash to get an idea of what the charge output is when running at speed. Look for about 13.9 volts.
  19. oldboat1

    Johnson 20R72R

    You are back on track then, right? Post back to confirm operation -- might require some additional tweaking. Make sure the water is well above the pump for testing. BTW, in your initial post, you seem to be saying that you are opening the carb while the timing plate was not moving. That's a...
  20. oldboat1

    Nothing on key turn

    Might have your batteries load tested. Also insure that the polarity at both batteries is correct. The Perko battery switch might be corroded or defective. The solenoid might be dead -- could jump from your vehicle to test (also might bypass the solenoid in jumping to test the starter).
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